Makes me wonder if it's actually more contact of the strap against the body instead of any change to the center of gravity that is the helpful factor.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
Welcome to TalkBass! Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
NBD and a brand new novel way to fix neck dive with no mods.
- Thread starter Chewy_B_i_T_s
- Start date
Well, today was the first field test for me. Made it through practice and church service no problem! That's from about 8 to 10:45am. As long as I keep the cup and bass clean I think this will work as a long term solution.
On a side note, this bass sounds incredible!
It has supplanted my Sandberg California II VM5 and my Maruszczyk Elwood L5. I think both of them might be moving on soon.
On a side note, this bass sounds incredible!
It has supplanted my Sandberg California II VM5 and my Maruszczyk Elwood L5. I think both of them might be moving on soon.
Approaching the end of the summer, is this still working for you?
I imagine I’d find the size of the suction thingy to be annoying after a few gigs, myself
Still going great! It popped off during rehearsal one time but I think that was the fault of where I stuck it on. I didn't leave myself enough room for the angle I wanted the neck at, so they're was a lot of lateral pressure from my side on the strap. Regarding getting annoyed by the size, the Garmin model I got is actually not that big, plus I don't leave it on. I keep it in a ziplock bag in my accessories tote.
I think most of the neck dive improvement is actually from the strap better fitting to the curvature of your back and getting more grip area.
Similar to how Dingwall uses their flush mount strap lock to shift the bass over towards the plucking hand, I think this actually has great use for people with shorter arms who can't get comfortable on a 35" scale.
I think most of the neck dive improvement is actually from the strap better fitting to the curvature of your back and getting more grip area.
Similar to how Dingwall uses their flush mount strap lock to shift the bass over towards the plucking hand, I think this actually has great use for people with shorter arms who can't get comfortable on a 35" scale.
Nah, there's definitely some weight redistribution going on as well: you're effectively moving some body wood/bridge metal to the right of the anchoring point, after all.
The horn extender was the solution to getting the balance and reach right on my Les Paul and only other musicians even notice it.
There is another method posted somewhere in the forum and it involves moving the bottom strap button higher up, as seen on Dingwall basses.
Bar the permanent aspect of it, this is literally what happens in this thread OP.
True, we all want to help.
For some the extra hole is a no go but it basically redefines how playable the instrument is onstage and there's nothing wrong with just leaving the original in place and adding the other.
It's actually fairly easy to determine the best balancing point by holding the strap above the front strap button and experimenting holding the back end of the bass at varying points to determine the best location. Won't work well at all for instruments with very light bodies, but it does work for many.
Balancing the weight distribution is better than relying on friction.
For some the extra hole is a no go but it basically redefines how playable the instrument is onstage and there's nothing wrong with just leaving the original in place and adding the other.
It's actually fairly easy to determine the best balancing point by holding the strap above the front strap button and experimenting holding the back end of the bass at varying points to determine the best location. Won't work well at all for instruments with very light bodies, but it does work for many.
Balancing the weight distribution is better than relying on friction.
Agreed on all counts. My point was that the principle is the same, i.e. moving the rear button (as opposed to moving the front one, or lightening/weighing down one side, or messing with the strap or what have you);
one which so many folks here are unaware of, believing said button's position behind the bridge, and especially at the body edge, is somehow an immutable fact of life.
Absolutely. I remember thinking it was ridiculous to think moving the rear button location could make any noticeable difference but it's actually pretty dramatic, and as mentioned earlier, something I'd seen here in the forum several years ago.
On my frankienbass, recently ditched the weight in back I was using and went with the horn extention.
Better outcome.
No they didn't.
Look at the angle of the strap at the shoulder point in those pics. The strap is barely gripping the shoulder as it angles away to the head stock, not down over the shoulder. Look how much forward push Elvis is giving his neck to keep it on his shoulder.
Try it before you drill your headstock. I did. It's scary how easy it is for the strap to slide off your shoulder and down your back. There's a reason manufacturers don't place straps there.
I use electrical tape when experimenting with bass strap positions as it doesn't leave residue. Plenty of other places to consider shifting the strap to.
Not the headstock.
Nobody understands satire anymore. the Hootenanny neck strap button was for those who preferred to have the bass more upright like, well, an upright.
To help cure neck dive I use Hipshot lightweight tuners. I also put a spacer on the upper horn strap button to move the balance point an inch out.
Oh, and BTW - electrical tape will leave residue.
Also, some finishes can react to the solvents in electrical tape. I taped a voltmeter to the tank of my KZ1000 while diagnosing a charging problem, and made the horrible mistake of leaving it there for a couple of months.
After I replaced the stator, I went to pull the tape off, and it took off perfect stripes of clear coat. The bike was a decade old and mint at the time- that was a real heartbreaker...