5-String Warwick: decrease string gauge to compensate neck bow / how much would gauge impact?

Mickets

Mickets

Feb 18, 2018
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#1
A year or so ago I took my German 5-String Warwick Corvette bass to a technician for general adjustments, including grounding, adjustment of neck, frets, bridge etc.

All good, but the truss rod was adjusted as possible but neck still had a bit of an up-bow (strings away from neck). Nothing critical, I have big hands and never had a complaint.

The technician suggested that one way to improve the neck bow would be to try a slighlty lighter gauge of strings, to relief a bit of the tension.

My current set of strings is Elixir Long Scale Light
  • 0.045 (G)
  • 0.065
  • 0.085
  • 0.105
  • 0.130 (B)
I was considering decreasing only the B string to 0.125, just for a try. But I have no idea how much changing just the B string would impact the tension on the neck - it's something I've never thought of, TBH.

Then just now I found I still have a set of D'Addario NYXL 45130 lying around here (not my preferred brand, I had totally forgotten I had a pack until just now).

NYXL 45130:
  • 0.045 (G)
  • 0.065
  • 0.080
  • 0.100
  • 0.130 (B)

So now I'm considering putting the D'Addarios on to see how much it affects the neck bow. But I really want to get a set of Elixir, TBH.

Questions:

  • What is the magnitude of the effect of decreasing the gauge of just the B string (down to 0.125) or the E and A strings (as per the D'Addario set above)? Should I expect significant change, or is it something more subtle?
  • If I want just a slight change of tension, would a change of only the B string gauge be sufficient, or should I consider decreasing the gauges of multiple strings?
Thanks for any insight. I want some idea before I go in to changing strings or purchasing a new set.

M
 
#3
Elixir Nanoweb Nickels 45-65-85-105-130 = 216.0 lbs. in total tension.

Elixir Nanoweb Nickels.jpeg


D'Addario NYXL 45-65-80-100-130 = 191.12 lbs. in total tension.

D'A NYXL 45-130.jpeg


216.0 lbs. vs. 191.12 lbs.... That's a difference of 24.88 lbs., or 11.5% reduction going from the Elixir to the D'A NYXL. It's hard to say what kind of effect the difference might have on the neck of your bass. It might help somewhat, but probably not in a significant way.
 
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#6
Mickets said:
A year or so ago I took my German 5-String Warwick Corvette bass to a technician for general adjustments, including grounding, adjustment of neck, frets, bridge etc.

All good, but the truss rod was adjusted as possible but neck still had a bit of an up-bow (strings away from neck). Nothing critical, I have big hands and never had a complaint.

The technician suggested that one way to improve the neck bow would be to try a slighlty lighter gauge of strings, to relief a bit of the tension.

My current set of strings is Elixir Long Scale Light
  • 0.045 (G)
  • 0.065
  • 0.085
  • 0.105
  • 0.130 (B)
I was considering decreasing only the B string to 0.125, just for a try. But I have no idea how much changing just the B string would impact the tension on the neck - it's something I've never thought of, TBH.

Then just now I found I still have a set of D'Addario NYXL 45130 lying around here (not my preferred brand, I had totally forgotten I had a pack until just now).

NYXL 45130:
  • 0.045 (G)
  • 0.065
  • 0.080
  • 0.100
  • 0.130 (B)

So now I'm considering putting the D'Addarios on to see how much it affects the neck bow. But I really want to get a set of Elixir, TBH.

Questions:

  • What is the magnitude of the effect of decreasing the gauge of just the B string (down to 0.125) or the E and A strings (as per the D'Addario set above)? Should I expect significant change, or is it something more subtle?
  • If I want just a slight change of tension, would a change of only the B string gauge be sufficient, or should I consider decreasing the gauges of multiple strings?
Thanks for any insight. I want some idea before I go in to changing strings or purchasing a new set.

M
Click to expand...
Try keeping your E detuned to Eb for a while. The difference in tension is around what you'd get when going down .005" in gauge for your low B (3-4 pounds). If the E-detuning doesn't do the trick, neither will the B-thinning.
However, .005" less is a bigger deal for thinner strings: just using a 060 D
Elixir Electric Bass NanoWeb Coating .060, 15360
instead of a 065 will make a bigger difference (about 8 pounds), and I'd start there if I were you.
 
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#10
Warwicks are different from other basses: IME they typically need a somewhat greater neck bow, but the resulting action could be very low.

is the truss rod maxed out indeed and doesn't turn further? or this was just the point, the technician said "I don't think, I need the neck straighter"? is the truss rod working at all (somewhat common thing is a broken truss rod hex on a Wick)?

if the truss rod is working, after your bass had settled for a year, just try to straighten the neck up, but don't apply excessive force. to be frank, I've never heard of a Wick that has a working, but maxed out truss rod, but it might happen.
 
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#11
mmbongo said:
Plus the B string is the lowest tension string so it wouldn't really make a difference.
Click to expand...

It doesn't have to be, but yes, that's how it usually works out. In your case, the B string is definitely not the problem. Often the biggest offender is the D string - a .060 is not well balanced with a .040 G, and a .065 is not well balanced with a .045 G, but most string makers don't seem to get that.

If you want a lower tension set, then I'd suggest 40-55-70-95-130. That is a well balanced set in tension - I play that set on most of my basses. You have to buy singles, or a 4 string extra light set and a single B, to get those gauges - nobody actually makes a re packaged balanced 5 string set like that that you can buy. Companies like Strngjoy, Curt Mangan, or Kalium, where picking string gauges yourself is part of their business model, are a good place to go for this.
 
Last edited:
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#12
fourstringdrums said:
Is the truss rod maxed out?
Click to expand...
According to the technician, yes it is. So there would be two ways to improve the neck and hence the action of the strings:

  • Try a lighter gauge of strings, see how much it would relief the tension on the neck
  • Full blown levelling of fretboard
I'm "OK" with how the strings are, but improvement would be nice. So changing the strings is obviously easier and might be sufficient.

Thanks
 
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#13
HaphAsSard said:
Try keeping your E detuned to Eb for a while. The difference in tension is around what you'd get when going down .005" in gauge for your low B (3-4 pounds). If the E-detuning doesn't do the trick, neither will the B-thinning.
However, .005" less is a bigger deal for thinner strings: just using a 060 D
Elixir Electric Bass NanoWeb Coating .060, 15360
instead of a 065 will make a bigger difference (about 8 pounds), and I'd start there if I were you.
Click to expand...

A-ha, great idea. I had never thought of detuning a string to check the effect. Also, I always had in mind that the greater tension per diameter would be on the B (wider) string. Excellent insights, thanks a lot!
 
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#15
Reedt2000 said:
I've found warwick necks to be stiffer than a typical bass. I'd expect the effects of only one or two lighter strings to be very subtle.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot. I'm ashamed that I never realized that the higher tension might not be on the wider strings as I was considering all this time. Thanks for pulling out those tension charts!
 
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#16
wolfkeller said:
In my personal experience the 2 high strings are what really make the difference as far as neck pull. I have gone both lighter and heavier to increase and decrease tension for difference basses with warped necks. It definitely works.
Click to expand...

Great hint there. I always thought the higher tensions would be on the wider strings. Instead of looking in to thinner B or E I'll look in to a ligher set in general.
 
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#17
ctmullins said:
I seriously doubt your truss rod is maxed out. I suggest getting a second opinion from a different, qualified tech.
Click to expand...

Good point there. I wouldn't expect it to be maxed out either. But it's a 2008 Warwick that I found in 2019 lying around the back of a shop (likely had been tossed around for years). Not sure if 11 years of mis-handling could have caused some deeper damage to the neck. But note that it's not significant: it's OK, I can't complain about the bass.

As for the technician, not so simple: my favorite technician moved to the other end of the country. I looked around for some and was recommended one that did in fact do a great job on my Ibanez (that no one else seemed to find a solution for).

THanks
 
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#18
Aloe said:
Warwicks are different from other basses: IME they typically need a somewhat greater neck bow, but the resulting action could be very low.

is the truss rod maxed out indeed and doesn't turn further? or this was just the point, the technician said "I don't think, I need the neck straighter"? is the truss rod working at all (somewhat common thing is a broken truss rod hex on a Wick)?

if the truss rod is working, after your bass had settled for a year, just try to straighten the neck up, but don't apply excessive force. to be frank, I've never heard of a Wick that has a working, but maxed out truss rod, but it might happen.
Click to expand...

The technician said it was maxed out (or to the point he felt safe adjusting it). I didn't try anything myself since then. But it's working. It's a 2008 model I found in 2019 at the back of a shop. Not sure what it went through in 11 years.
 
#20
Mickets said:
The technician said it was maxed out (or to the point he felt safe adjusting it). I didn't try anything myself since then. But it's working. It's a 2008 model I found in 2019 at the back of a shop. Not sure what it went through in 11 years.
Click to expand...

1. just try tightening the truss rod more =) if someone failed to adjust it further a year ago, it doesn't mean, it won't turn further. if you're not using excessive force, you won't damage it.
2. like what is your relief? press the G string on first and last fret, like what's it in the middle (from a fret to the string)? like width of the G string? twice less? three times less?
 
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