7.25" Fretboard Radius

[douglasbass]

For those of you who play and prefer a bass with a 7.25" fretboard radius, is it due to a greater ease with reaching notes? I have smaller hands and it *seems* like this radius would be better for single note runs, arpeggios, but maybe not. I play with my fingers (no pick). My current basses (2) have a 9.5" radius each. Fine to learn with (I'm new to bass), but I'm curious about the differences. From what I've learned so far, the old, early '60s Fender Jazz basses (and maybe Precisions?) had this radius. Closer to the radius of an upright bass? Thanks.

 

[FenderP]

7.25 is just more comfortable to me. I've tried other basses and when they don't have a 7.25 radius, they tend not to stick in my collection. A compound 7.25 to 9.5 is good for up the neck, but that's about it. Neck shape and thickness also has a lot to do with overall radius, too. I like a nice big baseball bat with high action. Most don't.

I started on 7.25 basses but did not know it at the time. Over the years you develop a feel of what is good for you or not.

YMMV and all disclaimers apply.

 

[Rip Van Dan]

For those of you who play and prefer a bass with a 7.25" fretboard radius, is it due to a greater ease with reaching notes? I have smaller hands and it *seems* like this radius would be better for single note runs, arpeggios, but maybe not. I play with my fingers (no pick). My current basses (2) have a 9.5" radius each. Fine to learn with (I'm new to bass), but I'm curious about the differences. From what I've learned so far, the old, early '60s Fender Jazz basses (and maybe Precisions?) had this radius. Closer to the radius of an upright bass? Thanks.

All of the Fender basses and guitars used the 7.25" radius until about the mid-80's where it changed to 9.5" radius. My first "good bass" was a 1965 Jazz that I bought in 1966. Played it in high school and some college and then toured using it for three years across the mid-west and western US playing 5-nights a week, 50-weeks a year. Was a great bass and I got real used to that narrow and slim neck with 7.25" radius. After coming off tour I still played it for weekend gigs. Then all my touring gear got stolen including my '65 Jazz in 1976. I didn't really have the money to replace it working a "normal" job with a wife and 2 kids. Nonetheless, I was on the lookout for another Jazz that had that "60's slim C-shape neck with a 7.25" radius". Couldn't find one anywhere. Found all the Jazz basses seemed to have that same width at the nut (just under 1½") but none of them were slim. They were all thick necks what I refer to as fat necks.

Then in 1985 while working part-time at a music store while back at college, someone brought in my current bass as a trade-in. When I played it, it felt like coming home. so I bought it and have played it for the last 36-years. I didn't buy it because it had the 70's-era pickup spacing (4" center to center), or because it was Olympic white, or because it had a white bound maple neck. I bought it because the neck shape, profile AND radius was the same as my 1965 Jazz. Most people thing there's not much difference between a 7.25" radius and a 9.5" radius, but the difference of course is that the 9.5" radius is flatter across its width than 7.25" radius. They can be made the same width and still have a different radius. When I pickup a bass with that radius, it just feels off to me...so I don't play one with that radius.

If you can find a Jazz with that "60's slim C-shape neck with a 7.25" radius", pick it up and play it. You'll find that it is extremely comfortable to play and really is a very "fast" neck. You can't get one from Fender USA now unless you have it custom built. However there were a number of MIM Jazz basses that were made with that neck and their re-issues of the 62 and 60's basses do have that neck. The re-issues from Fender US do not have that neck on them, which is really a sad state of affairs. They pronounce how this has all the original features on it and then go and put a modern Jazz neck on it. That neck is what determines the playability of the bass...OK, I'll stop. I'm just ranting now. See if you can find a Jazz with that "60's slim C-shape neck with a 7.25" radius" and give it a try. I think you'll see in an instant what I mean.

 

[douglasbass]

All of the Fender basses and guitars used the 7.25" radius until about the mid-80's where it changed to 9.5" radius. My first "good bass" was a 1965 Jazz that I bought in 1966. Played it in high school and some college and then toured using it for three years across the mid-west and western US playing 5-nights a week, 50-weeks a year. Was a great bass and I got real used to that narrow and slim neck with 7.25" radius. After coming off tour I still played it for weekend gigs. Then all my touring gear got stolen including my '65 Jazz in 1976. I didn't really have the money to replace it working a "normal" job with a wife and 2 kids. Nonetheless, I was on the lookout for another Jazz that had that "60's slim C-shape neck with a 7.25" radius". Couldn't find one anywhere. Found all the Jazz basses seemed to have that same width at the nut (just under 1½") but none of them were slim. They were all thick necks what I refer to as fat necks.

Then in 1985 while working part-time at a music store while back at college, someone brought in my current bass as a trade-in. When I played it, it felt like coming home. so I bought it and have played it for the last 36-years. I didn't buy it because it had the 70's-era pickup spacing (4" center to center), or because it was Olympic white, or because it had a white bound maple neck. I bought it because the neck shape, profile AND radius was the same as my 1965 Jazz. Most people thing there's not much difference between a 7.25" radius and a 9.5" radius, but the difference of course is that the 9.5" radius is flatter across its width than 7.25" radius. They can be made the same width and still have a different radius. When I pickup a bass with that radius, it just feels off to me...so I don't play one with that radius.

If you can find a Jazz with that "60's slim C-shape neck with a 7.25" radius", pick it up and play it. You'll find that it is extremely comfortable to play and really is a very "fast" neck. You can't get one from Fender USA now unless you have it custom built. However there were a number of MIM Jazz basses that were made with that neck and their re-issues of the 62 and 60's basses do have that neck. The re-issues from Fender US do not have that neck on them, which is really a sad state of affairs. They pronounce how this has all the original features on it and then go and put a modern Jazz neck on it. That neck is what determines the playability of the bass...OK, I'll stop. I'm just ranting now. See if you can find a Jazz with that "60's slim C-shape neck with a 7.25" radius" and give it a try. I think you'll see in an instant what I mean.

Thanks! Very interesting. I have a Squier Classic Vibe '60s Jazz, but alas the neck radius is 9.5". I'd like to replace it .... I see that Fender's Flea Jazz Bass has the following specs:

• Maple neck with “C”-shaped profile and 1.5” nut width; Road Worn nitrocellulose lacquer finish on back of the neck
• 7.25”-radius rosewood fingerboard with 20 vintage-style frets

 

[Hillsidebass]

I can play other radius basses just fine but my #1 pick is a 7.25”. I have a couple of Fender CS Jazz basses with that radius.

 

[Flaked Beans]

bollocks. the flatter is easier to play. That said i prefer my '78

 

[Bent77]

Have mostly 9.5” but the 7.25” is easier to play

 

[Flaked Beans]

Have mostly 9.5” but the 7.25” is easier to play

Easeir is a very subjective thing in many ways.

 

[douglasbass]

bollocks. the flatter is easier to play. That said i prefer my '78

View attachment 4563329

Curious why flatter would be easier to play? The nut width on a Jazz would make a difference.

 

[Bent77]

Well, I think if you have sausage fingers, the 7.25” probably doesn’t work

If you have little stick fingers like mine, it probably works a lot better!

 

[J_Bass]

I prefer flatter radius necks. They are more comfortable and easier to play.

The radius of my current main bass is 10°, but if it was 12, or 14, the better.

Of course each player has its preferences. But I think the flatter radius is better, people just got used to the round radius because it was how it was made.

Classical guitars have flat radius, for instance.

The DB has that steep radius because of archo playing.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Don't forget that a player's preference in fingerboard radius also has a lot to do with the right hand. Maybe even more than the left hand. Back toward the bridge, a rounder (smaller radius) fingerboard raises up the middle strings and makes it easier to do more aggressive plucking. Back in the old days (like, the '60's) bass players plucked harder and didn't play as many notes. A 7 1/4" radius over the body felt more comfortable to pluck, if you are used to playing upright bass, and trying out this new-fangled electric Fender thing.

But bass playing technique has evolved over the decades. Modern players play with super low action and pluck with a light touch, using almost acoustic guitar finger-style right hand technique. Lots of fast notes. And then there's slap and pop technique. These players usually like flatter radius under the plucking hand, often even completely flat.

The manufacturers like Fender eventually started making their necks flatter, 9" and 12", because customers wanted them. It was more for right hand plucking technique than for left hand comfort. In the last 30 years, 12" radius seems to have become the standard for 4-string electric basses. It's a comfortable compromise between round and flat; both style players can be happy with it.

Left hand comfort plays a part too. And it depends on your playing technique. Players who use a lot of muscle will usually like a smaller, rounder neck. Light and fast, with lots of chordal work, you may prefer a wider, flatter neck.

The basses I build are mostly 7 1/4" radius, and I offer some models in 4" radius. They are designed for a specific market of players who do upright-style plucking.

These days, there is a lot of choice out there. Think about your right hand technique as you are trying out different basses.

 

[forrestlaw]

My Vintera Mustang has a 7.25" radius and I honestly don't even notice the difference between it and my other 9.5" radius Fenders.

 

[40Hz]

But I think the flatter radius is better, people just got used to the round radius because it was how it was made.

Ok. But since Fender settled on 9.5” as its new standard, couldn’t you make the exact same “players got used to it” argument for that?

 

[Sands]

Don't forget that a player's preference in fingerboard radius also has a lot to do with the right hand. Maybe even more than the left hand. Back toward the bridge, a rounder (smaller radius) fingerboard raises up the middle strings and makes it easier to do more aggressive plucking. Back in the old days (like, the '60's) bass players plucked harder and didn't play as many notes. A 7 1/4" radius over the body felt more comfortable to pluck, if you are used to playing upright bass, and trying out this new-fangled electric Fender thing.

But bass playing technique has evolved over the decades. Modern players play with super low action and pluck with a light touch, using almost acoustic guitar finger-style right hand technique. Lots of fast notes. And then there's slap and pop technique. These players usually like flatter radius under the plucking hand, often even completely flat.

The manufacturers like Fender eventually started making their necks flatter, 9" and 12", because customers wanted them. It was more for right hand plucking technique than for left hand comfort. In the last 30 years, 12" radius seems to have become the standard for 4-string electric basses. It's a comfortable compromise between round and flat; both style players can be happy with it.

Left hand comfort plays a part too. And it depends on your playing technique. Players who use a lot of muscle will usually like a smaller, rounder neck. Light and fast, with lots of chordal work, you may prefer a wider, flatter neck.

The basses I build are mostly 7 1/4" radius, and I offer some models in 4" radius. They are designed for a specific market of players who do upright-style plucking.

These days, there is a lot of choice out there. Think about your right hand technique as you are trying out different basses.

I’m not sure if I ever heard this before. Thank you!

I’ve been playing a few years. Many with guitar.

I have played both with a light touch (using TI flats makes a light touch necessary) and a more aggressive pluck (chromes). I often enjoy the latter more than the former. I may need both. One of my early basses was a CS 66 reissue Jazz Bass. The prior owner/player had the strings on a flattish plain high to not as high from EADG. MUCH FUN to rip on. It also provided for balanced volume across the strings unlike many other 7.25 Jazz Basses.

 

[OnTheDownLow]

I think some of it has to do with the arch of your fingers. I find my fingers on my left hand to bend into a curve a little more than average probably so I believe that the more roundness of the 7.25 fits them a little better for me. That being said, I can use a 7.25 or a 9.5 and be okay with either. Anything above a 9.5 doesn't do well with me typically.

 

[J_Bass]

Ok. But since Fender settled on 9.5” as its new standard, couldn’t you make the exact same “players got used to it” argument for that?

Yes, of course.

I use a bass with 10°, I have a P bass with 9.5°.

It's not a big deal. I had a bass with 7.25°, and that one I didn't like.

I prefer flatter radius, but it's not a big deal if it's 9.5, 10.

And I agree with @Bruce Johnson. The right hand is the hand that has to adapt more. For me, at least, it is.

 

[Ric Vice]

Coming from Double Bass to my first EB’s The radius of the 1957-59 Precision Bass has always felt more comfortable to my smaller hands.

 

[J_Bass]

Coming from Double Bass to my first EB’s The radius of the 1957-59 Precision Bass has always felt more comfortable to my smaller hands.

Quite understandable.

I'm the opposite. I play the electric bass for more than 20 years, started on the double bass 3 years ago.
I don't play archo, so, a double bass with a flatter radius would be nice.
Especially on the bass part of the fingerboard. The Ab and the C# and 2 notes I struggle to play with the same clarity as the others, for instance.

 

[Lobster11]

Don't forget that a player's preference in fingerboard radius also has a lot to do with the right hand. Maybe even more than the left hand.

Good point. For example, I use a floating-thumb" technique in which the side of my thumb lies across the (lower) strings to mute them, which works best with the strings all being at the (almost) same height.