Ampeg BA108 vibration buzz

Paladin54

Rockin' the root...
Feb 3, 2012
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I am using an Ampeg BA108 as monitor at church and rarely have it above 4 for volume.

I am getting a lot of vibration buzz from it. I know it's only $100 new and not worth sending in somewhere to get fixed and it's not under warranty any more.

Is there something I can do at home to fix this?
 
I am using an Ampeg BA108 as monitor at church and rarely have it above 4 for volume.

I am getting a lot of vibration buzz from it. I know it's only $100 new and not worth sending in somewhere to get fixed and it's not under warranty any more.

Is there something I can do at home to fix this?
Get a bottle of super-thin cyanoacrylate glue (water consistency). Remove the grill and speaker. Apply the CA to all seams internally, but mainly the baffle. It will wick in and seal the joints.
 
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Get a bottle of super-thin cyanoacrylate glue (water consistency). Remove the grill and speaker. Apply the CA to all seams internally, but mainly the baffle. It will wick in and seal the joints.
You can use any wood glue to do that, honestly. But before I did that, I would check the inside padding and see if it's loose anywhere and reattach it. Flapping padding inside it can also cause that. I used to have a BA110 that did it, and I used double stick carpet tape to reattach it.
 
You can use any wood glue to do that, honestly. But before I did that, I would check the inside padding and see if it's loose anywhere and reattach it. Flapping padding inside it can also cause that. I used to have a BA110 that did it, and I used double stick carpet tape to reattach it.
Weldbond Adhesive is water based, can be thinned with water, and dries clear. If applied thinly, it will swell the wood and lock it when It dries.

I'd go over the seams again with undiluted glue it even Construction glue.

Weldbond can be used on most materials. I keep it handy for all kinds of projects. It takes about 24 hrs to fully cure.
 
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There are two styles of LockTite thread sealer. One you put on the threads before assembly and one you put on after. The one you put on after wicks down between the gaps in the threads of the already assembled bolt. If you have an already assembled joint use a glue that will wick completely through the joint and then kick off and lock. That's what super-thin CA does. Due to the poor joinery in the BA-108 (v1 in my case), if you apply it to the joint from the inside of the cabinet you will see it wick completely through the joint. Then it kicks off within seconds, generates heat and releases a noxious vapor.
 
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There are two styles of LockTite thread sealer. One you put on the threads before assembly and one you put on after. The one you put on after wicks down between the gaps in the threads of the already assembled bolt. If you have an already assembled joint use a glue that will wick completely through the joint and then kick off and lock. That's what super-thin CA does. Due to the poor joinery in the BA-108 (v1 in my case), if you apply it to the joint from the inside of the cabinet you will see it wick completely through the joint. Then it kicks off within seconds, generates heat and releases a noxious vapor.
Does it get you high? :D

I remember when this happened...they had gotten a batch of BA108's and BA110's that were all like that, and they already did the joint gluing and reattaching of the padding. It's possible one might have opened over time, but more likely is the possibility of the padding coming loose again.
 
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Yes, check the damping first.

As I recall, Loud recommended using wood glue in the seams. But I've used CA glue to stabilize cabinet joints. Both work well. CA is faster, wood glue requires hours to dry.

If the CA glue dries before it penetrates deep enough into the wood, it will act as a shield and prevent further penetration on subsequent glue applications. So a slower drying CA glue is good to use. There's also a product called chair doctor glue (Chair Doctor Glue | Chair Repair Glue). It swells the wood, then dries to lock everything in place. There are other wood stabilization glues that are used to repair wood rot. The ones that I've used are more water like in terms of viscosity so they seep into the wood and then dry. Some people dilute wood glue with water to achieve the same results.
 
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I opened it up and didn't see anything that was obviously wrong with it. I put the glue into every seam I could reach. After letting it dry for about 24 hours there is certainly less vibration buzz.

Thanks for the help.