Ampeg PF800 - 610HLF technical issues

Jun 3, 2016
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Hi all!

I'm currently using an Ampeg PF800 with a 610HLF cab. It sounds great and has been working good for almost a year. However, Saturday night I was playing a gig and all of a sudden in the middle of a song it just stopped working. It was not producing any sound at all but the amp was still ON. I turned it off and connected my bass directly to the amp (without any pedals, I was only using an MXR Limiter though) and still not working. Waited for like 10 seconds and tried again and finally started working again.

I'm not sure if the problem is with the Amp or the cabinet (I'd think it's the amp) but I'm afraid it might happen again and we have another gig tonight and a few coming up next month.

BTW this issue happened one time before only during practice a few weeks ago.

Anyone has any idea what could it be or how can I figure it out so I can attack the root cause and fix it?

Thanks!
 
Do you recall what your settings for gain and eq were? Was the Ultra low on?

Others have said to dime the master and set level with the gain to avoid similar shut-downs....

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Yes I do. I have the ultra low ON, Gain right on half (5/10) and Master volume at 3/4 (7/10) Bass at 4/10...

Someone once told me not to get the Gain too high and instead set the master as the main volume. Not sure what's the best option but I can experiment with the gain and dime the master a little bit.
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Yes I do. I have the ultra low ON, Gain right on half (5/10) and Master volume at 3/4 (7/10) Bass at 4/10...

Someone once told me not to get the Gain too high and instead set the master as the main volume. Not sure what's the best option but I can experiment with the gain and dime the master a little bit.
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That how I do and the tone fattens right up. There is no cause to worry about diming the master right to ten.
 
it's called shut down mode
amps getting too hot.

unfortunately it's why I don't use class d cause I've experienced it too many times with backline/borrowed
class d heads

I'm trying not to be negative cause I
always get negative feedback from people when expressing my experiences with class d heads.

if it was not a problem before at same levels then I would suspect something has changed like a fan issues or I've lived in dusty areas and had dusty studios and my computer fans would clog up about every 2 to 3 weeks. so check the fan and vents for dust build up
 
it's called shut down mode
amps getting too hot.

unfortunately it's why I don't use class d cause I've experienced it too many times with backline/borrowed
class d heads

I'm trying not to be negative cause I
always get negative feedback from people when expressing my experiences with class d heads.

if it was not a problem before at same levels then I would suspect something has changed like a fan issues or I've lived in dusty areas and had dusty studios and my computer fans would clog up about every 2 to 3 weeks. so check the fan and vents for dust build up

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Thanks a lot!! I'm reading a few other people with similar issues, although it seems more common on the PF500 and not the PF800.. I'll check the fan and vents and will clean it up, hopefully that will help!... Any recommendation on how hard I can hit it and if I'm pushing it too hard? (as I said before I have the ultra low ON, Gain right on half (5/10) and Master volume at 3/4 (7/10) Bass at 4/10).

Also do you know how long the "safe mode" takes to reset and work again? Based on these couple of times it seems like 30 seconds to a minute?

----
 
I bought my Aguilar TH-350 specifically because it was rated to run on "11" continuously. Between the problems with the PF-500 and Micro-VR I'd not buy an Ampeg non-tube amp these days, especially with Ampeg's "stone wall"/BS responses to these issues.

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I definitely love the sound of my PF800 with the 610, but I am REALLY bummed with this issue... It's funny I actually opened a thread a few months back about what amp runs better with a 610 and everyone brought PF800 as the best one... Maybe it's just my bad luck and got a "defective" one.
----
 
I don't " adapt" to amps that shut down. unfortunately my opinion would be get rid of it.

safe mode kicks in when the amplifier reaches a certain temperature so it resumes operation when it cools down. if you flip it on then off it will trick it into coming back on before it cools. so if in a set a quick on off will let you finish a song. then let it cool

ultra low is believed to boost bass it's a midrange cut that makes the lows emphasized. usually bass frequencies use the most power so reduction of bass might help. and removing the ultra low and boosting low mids to cut through the band mix.

using a more mid forward tone will cut through the mix better and reduce your overall power usage.

since its a known issue with this series of amps. and something goes wrong twice its gonna happen again. I just don't feel a player should have to adapt to a amp that shuts down. get rid of it..... sorry
 
I don't " adapt" to amps that shut down. unfortunately my opinion would be get rid of it.

safe mode kicks in when the amplifier reaches a certain temperature so it resumes operation when it cools down. if you flip it on then off it will trick it into coming back on before it cools. so if in a set a quick on off will let you finish a song. then let it cool

ultra low is believed to boost bass it's a midrange cut that makes the lows emphasized. usually bass frequencies use the most power so reduction of bass might help. and removing the ultra low and boosting low mids to cut through the band mix.

using a more mid forward tone will cut through the mix better and reduce your overall power usage.

since its a known issue with this series of amps. and something goes wrong twice its gonna happen again. I just don't feel a player should have to adapt to a amp that shuts down. get rid of it..... sorry

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I highly appreciate your comments... I wish I knew about this before I got it. I will clean the fan and experiment with different EQs to reduce the power usage for now and hopefully it'll work until I can get a different amp.
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Class d

C common
L little
A amps
S sure to
S shutdown

D definitely

lol I've had a few mark basses and pegs shut down too.
trick is low impedance devices use a lot of current especially 4 ohm and 2ohm loads. 2 ohm loads draw incredibly amounts of current it's why most class d only do 4ohms. 2 ohm loads absolutely exceed the actual thermal limits of the material the chips are made of. and most can't do 4ohms very well. trick is if you don't even plan on using 2 ohm loads a 2 ohm stable amp has superior thermal capabilities. so buying a 2 ohm stable amplifier absolutely guarantees it will do 4ohms alllll night long. and the fluffy little tricks to rate class d at "2.6 ohms" just don't cut it. invest in a real 2 ohm stable amplifier.
 
Class d

C common
L little
A amps
S sure to
S shutdown

D definitely

Complete garbage. All of your favorite amp heads will fail if they overheat. Whether they are heavy lead-sleds, tube amps, Class H or whatever you like, they can fail just like any other amp head out there. You had a great point about the fan being clogged with dust, but then you had to bash every single Class D amp out there. I am sorry you had a hard time with the select few Class D heads you have used, but please don't take one small experience and tell everyone on the planet that ALL Class D heads are garbage. There are FAR TOO MANY bass players on this forum who have used Class D for years with little to no issues.

To the OP - dust removal from the fan and inside of the amp would be the cheapest route to start with. Possibly someone else has had the same issue, but if that does not solve it, take it to a certified repair center.
 
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