Best way to Ream 11/16" Holes for new tuners

[drewphishes]

Have a squier with the crappy bronco tuners. Bought some new vintage style cloverleafs they require an 11/16 hole for the press in bushing.

The largest hand reamer I can find is up to 1/2"

what do you guys usE?

 

[Arie X]

If a hand reamer is what you want then McMaster-Carr has one:
#2989A31
$90

so does MSC:
11/16 Inch Diameter, Straight Shank, 3-7/8 02210441 - MSC
$65

 

[drewphishes]

dang thats expensive. thats more than the bass was lol. For that Id rather just use a dremel and slowly ream them out til they fit

 

[Lammchop93]

be careful reaming them out, because maple tends to "blow out" the back when you ream. make sure you have the back of the headstock secured tight against a scrap piece of wood that you will continue reaming through. Or, you could ream about halfway from the front of the headstock, and then the other half from the back, so that you meet in the middle.

 

[Linnin]

Use a drill press with an 11/16ths bit. Take your stuff to a competent luthier that has all the tools and knowledge that you don't.

 

[Turnaround]

You can accurately drill it out using a drill rather than a reamer. A drill will tend to self-centre on an existing hold, but they have a tendency to grab as it enters the wood and that can drive it off centre.

So start by using a countersink and bevel the existing hole. Then switch out to an 11/16 bit. The bevel will help the bit to centre, but you still need to use a high rotational speed a sharp bit and slow feed to ensure no grabbing.

 

[Arie X]

they require an 11/16 hole for the press in bushing.

forgot to ask but you just need to counterbore for the bushing -not go all the way through, correct? is it for an actual splined bushing or a ferrule?

 

[drewphishes]

luthiers not an answer, the bass was a 40$ pickup at a yard sale. just wanna change the tuners. Im pretty confident doing most of my own repairs so Im prob gonna just have a go at it

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Well, the right tool for the job is a piloted counterbore. I machine up my own, but then, I have my own small machine shop.

If all you have are hand tools, and you aren't looking for perfection, here's what I recommend: Start with a countersink. Gently cut a countersink on the existing hole, checking with a ruler to bring the OD of the countersink right to 11/16". Do the same thing on the back side of the hole. This gives you a guideline circle to work to, which is centered on the original hole. The countersink also helps to prevent chipping out paint or wood at the surface.

Now trim out the hole to that circle, watching front and back. The simplest way is with a big round file, but you can use a Dremel tool if you like. Work carefully, filing right to the line, and keep checking the fit of the bushing.

 

[Teacher]

Countersink front and back (just a little), 11/16" bit, drill press, cheap wood as a sacrificial backing.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I did the same job , similar to what Bruce describes above, though I didn't countersink (didn't have one that big). I drew an 11/32" circle around the existing hole using a circle template, and very carefully and slowly widened the hole out with a round file. Worked fine, but the countersink method is better, because it self-centers. You can get a countersink at Harbor Freight for cheap if you don't have one.

 

[drewphishes]

Got the job done last night, just used a step drill bit and a dremmel sanding attachment. new tuners are on!