connecting 4ohm and 8ohm cabs

If you ran them in series (with external cable/box), yes, you would have a 12 ohm load the head would see... but, I have to believe you would be much happier with just running the 410 by itself @ 4 ohms ....

JMHO ... as always ;)

Edit to add: ... unless of course you prefer the sound of the 115 over the 410 ... then if you need more/want 2 cabs, add another 8 ohm 115 ...
 
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Ok, but is there a way of doing it, ie parallel /series

You can buy a box or cable that is series wired but these are specialty items only available from a couple of boutique cable shops. I have one because I run two 6 ohm cabs.

When you mix 4 and 8 ohm cabs, one or the other (I forget which) will see more power than the other, so you are generally better off with a pair of 4's or 8's. Of course if you use a pair of 4's, you would need an amp that's good down to 2 ohms (like the Mesa Subway for example) or find one of those series cables.

Wiring in series cuts your power in half, so what you gain by adding more cone area can be lost by the power reduction unless you have a lot more watts than you need.
 
Ok, but is there a way of doing it, ie parallel /series
Yes, but in general output jacks on amps and the jacks on speaker cabs are all wired in parallel, so even if you "daisy chain" the speakers off of one output jack on your amp the speakers are still in parallel.

You need a special, particular kind of cable to force the series connection of your cabinets, or to rewire the jack plate on one of you cabinets.
 
If you ran them in series (with external cable/box), yes, you would have a 12 ohm load the head would see ... and a good thing would be that the 410 would receive 2x the power of the 115 ... but, I have to believe you would be much happier with just running the 410 by itself @ 4 ohms ....

JMHO ... as always ;)

No it would not! In series the 8Ω load would ‘drop’ twice the voltage of the 4Ω load and thus take twice the power.
 
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As others have pointed out, running a 4 ohm cab and an 8 ohm cab with the industry standard "parallel" connection would give you a 2.66 ohm load and hopefully trigger your amps protection circuits before it melted your amp.

You can get (or make if your OK with soldering) a series/parallel box that will let you hook them up in series, which adds the ohms loads together instead of dropping it. I did that with a Sunn cab that I had for a while. It had both Parallel and Series outputs on the back of the cab. It was a 212, 4 ohm cab, and the 115 was an 8 ohm cab. GK's cheapest amp (250 backline) has an 8 ohms minimum load, so I couldn't even run the Sunn cab by itself from that amp. Running both cabs in series turned it into a 12 ohm load, which was safe but dropped the power by about 1/3. Nonetheless, it was significantly louder and better sounding that running just the 115 because there was far more speaker area by running both cabs and the GK115blx is a terribly boomy cab by itself.

Then I bought a better amp that had a 4 ohm minimum load and an 8 ohm 410 cab to run with the 8 ohm 115, and stopped worrying about it. Now I run a single DNS410 cab because it is far better sounding and louder than that 410/115 stack was and easier to move around too.
 
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Never mix 8 ohm and 4 ohm cabs

If you want to use the 2 cabs then use 2 heads

There are sometimes good reasons for mixing 4Ω and 8Ω cabinets. An example would be a 4Ω 4x10 and an 8Ω 2x10. This would result in a 2.67Ω load. As long as the amp is safe into this impedance all six drivers will given the same amount of power making the combination a viable 6x10.
 
Another option to consider, if you have a direct out (DI) built into the he'd, is to get a separate power amp, bridge it to 8 ohms to run the 8 ohm cab with it and run the 4 ohm cab with the amphead power section. You can find used lower power at 4 ohms per side stereo power amps, like for around $100 or so, and bridge them to mono for some really decent power to your 8 ohm cab. And if the DI on your head allows you to select pre or post EQ from the preamp section, all the better. Makes your system modular and powerful. And if you still need a DI, buy a separate one and run it between your bass and amphead. The sound guy will like you for it.
 
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