Cutting A Pickguard - Drill or Saw?

I have a sheet of pickguard material, a drill, a coping saw, and some files.

To cut out the pickguard: would it be better to drill small holes with a tiny gap between holes and then use the bit to remove the material in between, or drill a hole and use the coping saw to cut it out? (Either way I assume the best would be to finish with files).
 
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Just go at it with the coping saw. Cut about 1/16" (or 1/32" if you have a good eye) outside your finish line and then file or sand it to finish off. Drilling holes will just leave a jagged line it will take twice as long to file. Use a fine-tooth coping saw. And yes, I do use a template and router, but that just speeds it up, no reason you can't do this by hand. You can bevel it by hand too if you are careful. Leave the plastic protection sheet on until the last possible minute.
 
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[QUOTE="Gilmourisgod, post: 28486266, member: You can bevel it by hand too if you are careful. Leave the plastic protection sheet on until the last possible minute.[/QUOTE]
I bought a custom Cabronita PG from WD and requested the entire edge be beveled. When it arrived all edges were beveled, except the top edge [facing the neck]. I was able to take a file and match the bevel perfectly, which included the rounded section. Even surprised me how good it turned out.
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OP, use the coping saw, take your time, always recheck before moving forward, and you should have good results.:thumbsup:
 
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Yes, you can make up a pickguard completely with hand tools; a drill, a coping saw, and a file or two. That's what we all did before we got routers and templates.

If you don't have a router, you make the pickguard using patience and craftsmanship. With simple tools.

Once you have a router, you use the patience and craftsmanship to make the template. Then you can make multiple pickguards quickly and accurately. From the template.
 
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I used the coping saw and files, then I ran over the edges quickly with some 100 grit sandpaper. Pics attached. (Kinda ugly with the pen marks still there and protective plastic shredded at the edges).
Firstly, I drilled one of the screw holes with an 1/8” masonry bit (the only type of bit I currently own) and the hole developed a raised edge around. Is there anyway to prevent this?
Secondly, any critique or tips?
Thanks!
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I used the coping saw and files, then I ran over the edges quickly with some 100 grit sandpaper. Pics attached. (Kinda ugly with the pen marks still there and protective plastic shredded at the edges).
Firstly, I drilled one of the screw holes with an 1/8” masonry bit (the only type of bit I currently own) and the hole developed a raised edge around. Is there anyway to prevent this?
Secondly, any critique or tips?
Thanks!View attachment 5472130 View attachment 5472131

Looks good so far. You've got the basic technique down. The perimeter shape looks pretty good. Maybe just a little more quiet time with your eyes and a file, smoothing out a few small lumps.

To drill the holes in a pickguard, you need 3 small tools:

An 1/8" drill bit. A standard drill bit will work, but a brad point bit is better, easier to get started right on your centerpunch mark.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW170...17785409&sprefix=1/8+brad,aps,208&sr=8-5&th=1

A small countersink, to lightly countersink the screw holes.

https://www.amazon.com/Countersink-...17785507&sprefix=countersink,aps,188&sr=8-104

A 3/8" Pilot Point drill bit. This is the best type of drill bit for drilling the holes for the post & jack in that soft plastic. It has a small pilot point in the center, which happens to be 1/8" diameter. The technique is to first drill the hole with your 1/8" bit. Then use the Pilot Point bit to enlarge it to 3/8".

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWA12...drill+bit+pilot+point+3/8,aps,186&sr=8-5&th=1

The Amazon links are just for reference. You can get these at almost any hardware store.
 
Now cue 12 people telling you you can't make a pickguard without a router and template.
Yep, I used to make all kinds of brackets and braces from 3mm carbon fiber sheet for R/C race cars. I used a $20 simple CAD software to draw my parts to scale, then print it on sticky back inkjet project paper. Next, stick the drawing to a piece of CF sheet, rough it out with a Dremel cutoff wheel, then finish it with Dremel sanding drums and a little hand sanding. Most people who saw them didn’t believe I made them at home. It just takes a little time and some chea pass CAD software. :D
 
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