Determining proper nut slot depth?

vindibona1

vindibona1

Apr 18, 2015
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#1
I know how regular 6 string electrics and acoustics should be set up and my bass seems to be pretty well set up too. But I want to check the nut slots. Compared to my guitars there is much more "clearance" on my bass and wondering if the nut should be adjusted?

I know that on my guitars I hold down each string on the 3rd fret and tap the 1st fret to see how much clearance there is. On guitars there should be just a hair of clearance when the 3rd fret is held down.

My question is... Is this also a proper method for determining that the nut slots are deep enough and not too deep? If so, how much clearance should there actually be? Need there be more clearance than a regular guitar?

TIA
 
#2
vindibona1 said:
I know how regular 6 string electrics and acoustics should be set up and my bass seems to be pretty well set up too. But I want to check the nut slots. Compared to my guitars there is much more "clearance" on my bass and wondering if the nut should be adjusted?

I know that on my guitars I hold down each string on the 3rd fret and tap the 1st fret to see how much clearance there is. On guitars there should be just a hair of clearance when the 3rd fret is held down.

My question is... Is this also a proper method for determining that the nut slots are deep enough and not too deep? If so, how much clearance should there actually be? Need there be more clearance than a regular guitar?

TIA
Click to expand...
It's a decent test. You only need half a hair of clearance. Np more than a regular guitar.
 
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#3
I use the same test on fretted instruments. Plus, I like to see just a skosh (technical term) or maybe half a skosh of daylight between the top of the first fret and the bottom of the string when fretting the string at the third fret. I also slope the nut slot down just a bit towards the headstock to provide a good a witness point.
 
#4
vindibona1 said:
My question is... Is this also a proper method for determining that the nut slots are deep enough and not too deep?
Click to expand...

That way works just fine but isn't the only way.
My preferred method is to try match the resistance needed for fretting at the 2nd fret while holding down at the first.
 
#6
mongo2 said:
I use the same test on fretted instruments. Plus, I like to see just a skosh (technical term) or maybe half a skosh of daylight between the top of the first fret and the bottom of the string when fretting the string at the third fret. I also slope the nut slot down just a bit towards the headstock to provide a good a witness point.
Click to expand...
Half a skosh = 1 skoosh. Half a skoosh is an oops. Half an oops is a shyte, half a shyte is a dammit.

OK I'm having too much fun in this thread - I'm outta here.
 
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#10
zortation said:
Shouldn't those be in order of severity? A skosh seems a lot less serious than a shyte or dammit.
Click to expand...
They are measurements in increasing order of frustration. So in reverse order, a dammit is that degree of accuracy will elude you no matter how hard you try. A shyte is where you can in fact do it but you missed yet again. Oops is "just missed" and skoosh is a bit of a bit - doable if you concentrate. Skosh is a bit - don't have to try too hard.
 
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#11
Turnaround said:
They are measurements in increasing order of frustration. So in reverse order, a dammit is that degree of accuracy will elude you no matter how hard you try. A shyte is where you can in fact do it but you missed yet again. Oops is "just missed" and skoosh is a bit of a bit - doable if you concentrate. Skosh is a bit - don't have to try too hard.
Click to expand...

Man, that's dictionararic (sp?) :smug:
 
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#13
lz4005 said:
That way works just fine but isn't the only way.
My preferred method is to try match the resistance needed for fretting at the 2nd fret while holding down at the first.
Click to expand...


Interesting... my gut tells me that the slots are just a bit high. But I’m also thinking that lowering them will require me to make adjustments at the bridge as well because I’m just at the point of buzz if the TR isn’t dialed in exactly. I suppose it’s the price one pays when the hands are finicky
 
#14
vindibona1 said:
Interesting... my gut tells me that the slots are just a bit high. But I’m also thinking that lowering them will require me to make adjustments at the bridge as well because I’m just at the point of buzz if the TR isn’t dialed in exactly. I suppose it’s the price one pays when the hands are finicky
Click to expand...

Nut slot depth only impacts open notes buzzing on the first fret. It literally can't cause fret buzz anywhere else.

Try hammer-ons from 0 to 1 and from 1 to 2 on each string. Ideally they should take the same amount of effort.
 
#15
vindibona1 said:
Interesting... my gut tells me that the slots are just a bit high. But I’m also thinking that lowering them will require me to make adjustments at the bridge as well because I’m just at the point of buzz if the TR isn’t dialed in exactly. I suppose it’s the price one pays when the hands are finicky
Click to expand...
Thats what relief is for. The nut don't enner inuit.
 
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#17
Not perhaps, it is fact. Every seasoned pro tech in TB will attest to it.

Everybody maesures relief differently it seems, 7,8 or 9.

My method is different based on reality: every neck is different and the low point will be in a diffrrent spit than another bass. I check all three and find the deepest point of relief, that being the reference for that particular bass.

Sometimes there’s no measurable difference betwen the three and on some basses there is a difference. Thats wood for you.
 
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