EB Slinky Cobalt Flatwounds - top load or string through?

My Fender American Pro Jazz has the option to top load or string through. Usually I string through Rounds and top load flats, but from what I understand the EB Slinky Flatwounds are somewhat in between. EB said it doesn’t matter, but I’m curious what you tried and if you have recommendations? Thanks.
 
Given the option, I top load flats to minimize the steep angles that can drastically shorten the life of the string from breakage. Only because flats tend to stay on basses much longer than rounds, so I want to preserve the life.
 
Sorry for the wordy reply. But, I feel it's relative and informative.

I have just recently started messing around with flats. Now.... I hated flats and P basses for the first 30 years (been playing since 1989). But, I've recently fell in love with what a P bass can do. So, of course... I had to try me some flats. I'm a scientist at my "real" job. So, it is in my nature to experiment. I currently have 9 different sets (brands, gauges, and types) on as many basses, and still more unopened sets to try. The only flats that I have been afraid to run through the body, are the LaBella sets that specifically say NOT to. The Labella Golds are too short anyways, they have to be top loaded.

As for Cobalt flats, I have read that they can be strung through the body w/ no issues. I bought a light (40-95) set for my Classic Series Stingray. Through-body is the only option on that bass, given it's bridge doesn't take top loading. I'll try the Cobalts after I get finished deciding what I think about the 45-105 set of DR Legends that are on it.

Something I've noticed, some E strings will need to be strung through the body due to the winding length. I feel it is way harder on a flat to wrap the fat part of the E around a tuner post. It also looks like it could put a strain on the tuner itself. Case in point: I put a set of Dunlop 40-100 flats on a Lakland yesterday. The E had to go through body, while the A was too short (the silk and taper point would be in the nut slot). So, the A, D, and G were top loaded. Might bother an OCD person, but the silks looked well aligned on the headstock.
 
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Either or, if you find flats to be too stiff, don't string thru the body as the extra length and break angle can make them feel more taught. I've don't both, no issues with EB flats thru the body.
 
MVC-001S.JPG Kramer 450B bass.jpg This '06 Carvin LB-20 has the Hipshot A bridge, and I have strung it thru-body. Once. It was kind of a PITA, and didn't provide any aural improvement that I could hear. So, I never did it again. But, the Roto RS 775LD flats (it's strung BEAD) didn't seem to mind... The '78 Kramer 450B isn't exactly a string-thru, but the effect on the strings is the same. And there's no option for stringing it any other way. So far, I've had no problems with it - and it's worn flats since I got it, about... oh, 15 years ago, now. I will say that it's never worn La Bellas, though. But, not because of the string-thru thing. The "Old School" La Bella tone is just exactly wrong for the Kramer. Even with the bright Optima "Chrome" flats it's wearing now, it sounds like an old P-Bass with La Bella Jamerson flats; a very, very Loud old P-Bass....
So, I say - string that bass however you want to. They don't say not to string those strings thru-body, so do it that way if you want. Personally, I think it's a waste of time, but... hey; it's your bass; your strings; and your time...:whistle: