Everything PLL (Shumann, Broughton, Dimehead, ELTA, etc)

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I've been messing around with my Broughton PLL, and have some questions/ observations on what other users are doing:

1.) The multiplier and divider switches don't seem to do anything. I assume if they are both to the left, it is the same as both to the right. If I have the switches facing inwards or outwards, I don't notice any difference. thoughts?

2.) The "Preamp" knob is an input signal booster/ reducer. With different basses, I don't notice much of a difference, but I'm sure drum machines, guitars, synths, etc this knob would be more useful. thoughts?

3.) "Waveshape" only affects the square wave signal.

4.) I had a ? on lagtime/ response but don't remember.

5.) The "Loop Speed" switch is critical for super fast and sputtery vs slow and rising/ falling.

6.) For the "drone box" I use an expression pedal and find that it's pretty ho hum. I use a hotone bass press. Any other suggestions?


*X*X*X*X The "Original" for background information X*X*X*X*X



Schumann Electronics PLL

SCHUMANN PLL

The PLL is an analog harmonizer that turns your input signal into a square wave and then has a multiplier and divider that adds intervals to your note.
Two harmony notes are controlled by the loop function which controls how it tracks your original note.

  • makes one note into a chord
  • make any triad out of one note
  • makes it sound like there's someone else playing along with you
  • set the loop control to decide how it follows your playing
  • the three notes are a three-channel mixer that gets into a master volume
  • uses a +12 -12 bipolar power supply
Comes with the MOMENTARY switch accessory. This lets you mute the two harmony voices momentarily or turn them on momentarily.

pll_front_controls.jpg

The PLL Multiplier, Divider, Loop controls...
Some comments about the PLL:

it's not easy to explain everything it does but put most simply, it's a square wave generator that's controlled by an input signal (guitar, synth, drum machine, etc). the 'signature' of the sound ultimately lies in the tracking circuit which is of itself an amazing thing. from my experience, most analog tracking circuits of this nature suck (MS20, sherman filterbank2, analogue systems pitch-to-CV) but the PLL gives unprecedented control over how accurately or inaccurately you wish it to track a signal, and can cause wonderfully lively twitches and bumps of the pitch (if you want). and though it can become chaotic, it'll still be in key (or not, if you want). i'd describe the sound it generates as highly shapable harmonic-specific distortion. germanium overdrives act upon the squarewave and it's multiplier and divider to add 'beyond fuzz factory' fuzz. the overall tone depth is determined by the levels of the square wave (root) and harmonics (mult and divider). the post-mix waveshaper does alot to tone-down or amp-up the front egde of the sound after you get your harmonics dialed in. there's still other stuff you can mess with to alter the sound (like playing your instrument) but that's it in a nutshell. -- scott m.
 
1.) The multiplier and divider switches don't seem to do anything. I assume if they are both to the left, it is the same as both to the right. If I have the switches facing inwards or outwards, I don't notice any difference. thoughts?
I'm assuming you mean the phase switches, and not the rotary switches. They flip the phase of the respective signal by 180 degrees. The phase switches for the most part won't make a difference, but you may occasionally find a warble or volume cutout at particular mult/div intervals, in which case the phase will help. It's more obvious when using headphones.

2.) The "Preamp" knob is an input signal booster/ reducer. With different basses, I don't notice much of a difference, but I'm sure drum machines, guitars, synths, etc this knob would be more useful. thoughts?
The preamp gives about 20dB of boost. It's most noticeable when mult/div levels are at minimum so you are only hearing the square wave. Put the trigger at a setting that is "always on" as opposed to gated. The Preamp will then act like a gain for a fuzz pedal. Again, it is subtle, but it seems this was designed for a plethora of signals, so having the boost on hand may be necessary for other sources that perhaps aren't so strong.

3.) "Waveshape" only affects the square wave signal.
False, it is on the output of the PLL, where all three signals have been mixed. It is a fixed passive filter, like a tone control on a passive bass. Again this is super noticeable on headphones, maybe not so much through an amp, as the cutoff frequency is a bit high.

4.) I had a ? on lagtime/ response but don't remember.


5.) The "Loop Speed" switch is critical for super fast and sputtery vs slow and rising/ falling.
Yes, this switches in three different capacitor values for the "release" of the PLL chip.

6.) For the "drone box" I use an expression pedal and find that it's pretty ho hum. I use a hotone bass press. Any other suggestions?
I find a 500k ohm or 1meg ohm potentiometer is ideal, either linear or reverse log. I made a post here on TB before on how to make the box. Bonus points for whoever finds it.
 
I found it first, I win:

PLL Drone Modification

As promised, I am posting a DIY tutorial on how to mod your Broughton PLL to have the Drone accessory. If you don't feel you can do it yourself, I can do it for you.

What is the mod?
It is essentially a constant tone, or drone, that is played through the multiply/divide paths, in addition to your input signal. The tone is controlled by a resistance measured from ground.

What do I need to do the mod?
-wire
-two 1/4" jacks (Lumberg type preferable)
-a switch (toggle or stomp, depending on how you want to engage/disengage it)
-a potentiometer or some other means of changing resistance. 500k linear pot works well
-an enclosure in which to assemble the drone accessory
-tools (drill, bits, soldering iron)

How do I do it?
First you will need to install an extra 1/4" jack into the PLL. I prefer to put it between the DC jack and input jack.
Next you will need to wire the tip contact to the "Drone" pad on the PCB (upper left corner of PCB)
View attachment 959785
You will need the sleeve contact to be grounded. If it's a metal, non-insulated jack, the enclosure ground reference is good enough (no wire needed)

The PLL modification is done. Next you need to make the Drone box. This can be made however you want. Essentially, you want some kind of resistance between the tip and sleeve contacts of the drone box jack, and the ability to switch it out so you don't go insane from the constant drone. The resistance can come in any form you wish, including a potentiometer, a rotary switch with resistors, or get creative by switching an expression pedal in or out, or use a photoresistor, or a pressure resistor...

Let's assume you make a simple box with a stomp switch and a potentiometer. A 500k linear pot works well. This can easily go into a 1590A enclosure with the jack on the top side, and the switch/pot on the face. You want to wire the sleeve contact to lug #3. The tip contact goes to the switch, and from the switch to lug #2 of the pot. See below:

View attachment 959809

Of course you can use other lugs of the switch to do other functions simultaneously, such as lighting up an LED (you'll need a DC supply for that).

With the drone box made, all you need to do is connect the box with the PLL with a standard 1/4" patch cable. With the PLL engaged, activate the drone box switch and there will be a constant tone. As you turn the knob clockwise (decreasing the resistance to ground) the tone will increase in frequency.
 
1.) The multiplier and divider switches don't seem to do anything. I assume if they are both to the left, it is the same as both to the right. If I have the switches facing inwards or outwards, I don't notice any difference. thoughts?
I'm assuming you mean the phase switches, and not the rotary switches. They flip the phase of the respective signal by 180 degrees. The phase switches for the most part won't make a difference, but you may occasionally find a warble or volume cutout at particular mult/div intervals, in which case the phase will help. It's more obvious when using headphones.

2.) The "Preamp" knob is an input signal booster/ reducer. With different basses, I don't notice much of a difference, but I'm sure drum machines, guitars, synths, etc this knob would be more useful. thoughts?
The preamp gives about 20dB of boost. It's most noticeable when mult/div levels are at minimum so you are only hearing the square wave. Put the trigger at a setting that is "always on" as opposed to gated. The Preamp will then act like a gain for a fuzz pedal. Again, it is subtle, but it seems this was designed for a plethora of signals, so having the boost on hand may be necessary for other sources that perhaps aren't so strong.

3.) "Waveshape" only affects the square wave signal.
False, it is on the output of the PLL, where all three signals have been mixed. It is a fixed passive filter, like a tone control on a passive bass. Again this is super noticeable on headphones, maybe not so much through an amp, as the cutoff frequency is a bit high.

4.) I had a ? on lagtime/ response but don't remember.


5.) The "Loop Speed" switch is critical for super fast and sputtery vs slow and rising/ falling.
Yes, this switches in three different capacitor values for the "release" of the PLL chip.

6.) For the "drone box" I use an expression pedal and find that it's pretty ho hum. I use a hotone bass press. Any other suggestions?
I find a 500k ohm or 1meg ohm potentiometer is ideal, either linear or reverse log. I made a post here on TB before on how to make the box. Bonus points for whoever finds it.

thanks! you didn't answer #4 tho
 
Subbed. This might be a good thread for settings/soundclips.

PLL IS LIFE!
Obviously, Getting info from @Azure Skies in the public was intended, but settings/clipz are good too!

No rules, just like the PLL
 
I believe the Schumann drone box uses a momentary foot switch to engage the drone

Yep you can do any number of clever things to get the drone going. The two elements involved are resistance for the drone frequency, and the switch for it to be on/off.

Resistance options:
Potentiometer
Photocell
Jfet/BJT/MOSFET
Pressure resistor
Joystick
Expression pedal
fixed resistors on a switch
Tongue
Literally anything with some kind of resistance


Switch options:
Toggle switch
Stomp switch
Momentary switch
Always on (insanity mod)
Never on (no drone mod)
Scissors
Literally anything that can make/break connectivity


I'm curious about power requirements for the Broughton version - 9 volts, but any particular ma?

Upper limit is 20mA. Usually it's a little less though. The absolute maximum voltage is 15V, but there's no benefit at all going above 9V, and it's more risky.
 
Yep you can do any number of clever things to get the drone going. The two elements involved are resistance for the drone frequency, and the switch for it to be on/off.

Resistance options:
Potentiometer
Photocell
Jfet/BJT/MOSFET
Pressure resistor
Joystick
Expression pedal
fixed resistors on a switch
Tongue
Literally anything with some kind of resistance


Switch options:
Toggle switch
Stomp switch
Momentary switch
Always on (insanity mod)
Never on (no drone mod)
Scissors
Literally anything that can make/break connectivity




Upper limit is 20mA. Usually it's a little less though. The absolute maximum voltage is 15V, but there's no benefit at all going above 9V, and it's more risky.
My vote is for tongue
 
PLL! Yeah!

I've been staring at a schematic (Schumann) for a while, scratching my head, trying to understand the signal flow, in order to nail down some ideas about this circuit.

Maybe somebody can confirm or correct this signal flow:

Input --> preamp --> trigger --> signal divided A/B -->
A --> squarewave (=fuzz)
B --> Muliply Phase --> "the VCO things" --> signal divided B1/B2 -->
B1 --> Divide Phase --> Divider
B2 --> Multiply
then B1 and B2 come together again --> Moment
and then B joins A and everything goes --> Waveshape --> Master --> Output.

Cheers!
 
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