Filling and re-drilling neck joint holes

[KingRazor]

I have a bass where the neck screws were installed crooked. I've tried a few different ways to alleviate the problem, but it's still bad enough to interfere with playability on certain parts of the fretboard. I think it's time to get the root of the problem fixed and get the neck holes filled and re-drilled.

How much would most guitar repair techs charge for a job like this?

 

[mech]

Should take way less than an hour so I would say the minimum charge for your area.

 

[Turnaround]

I have a bass where the neck screws were installed crooked. I've tried a few different ways to alleviate the problem, but it's still bad enough to interfere with playability on certain parts of the fretboard.

OK I'm still trying to figure out how crooked neck screws are affecting the playability of the instrument. There must be something you're not telling us.

 

[KingRazor]

OK I'm still trying to figure out how crooked neck screws are affecting the playability of the instrument. There must be something you're not telling us.

The crooked neck screws have resulted in the neck itself leaning to the side slightly. This makes the g string get closer to the edge of the fretboard the higher you go up. Up above the 12th fret especially it's difficult not to "fret out" because there's so little space between the string and the edge of the board.

Plus, there's a bit of string buzz already on the g due to some less than stellar fretwork that I think could be exacerbated by this issue, but I could be wrong there.

 

[mech]

This makes the g string get closer to the edge of the fretboard the higher you go up. Up above the 12th fret especially it's difficult not to "fret out" because there's so little space between the string and the edge of the board.

The distance from the string to the edge of the fretboard is called the string margin. At this point I wouldn't re-drill the neck. First try moving the neck. Loosen the G, D and A strings. Leave the E at pitch since you want to move the neck to that side and the E being tight will help the neck stay in place. Loosen the neck screws about two full turns and see if you can pivot the neck to the E side. Firm but controlled pressure. If the neck moves, tighten the mounting screws and see what you have. Sometimes it takes three hands and a couple of trys to to get it right. The holes in the body "should" have a taste of room for the screws to move. Some manufacturers have tight holes in the bodies or the holes are filled with paint/polishing compound and don't let the screws shift. The screws should drop through the holes in the body and not have to be screwed in. If that's the case drill the holes in the body 1/16" larger than a drill bit that can be forced into the holes by hand.

Sometimes the neck pocket is too tight to let the neck pivot. Then the bridge would need to be moved to adjust the string margin. There are instruments that required that. There are "cures" other than moving the bridge.....enlarging the neck pocket or reducing the width of the heel of the neck but that requires some serious equipment and may cause cosmetic damage. That would need to be done by an expert.

 

[KingRazor]

I've already drilled out the body holes wider to allow me to move the neck more, and sanded the neck pocket a little to loosen it up. I cranked the neck over to the other side and tightened the screws as much as I could, but within just a few minutes of playing it moved back.

 

[LoveThatBass]

OK I'm still trying to figure out how crooked neck screws are affecting the playability of the instrument. There must be something you're not telling us.

I agree, maybe the neck is not sitting flush due to the screw angles. Personally I would get 1/4" wooden dowel rod (maple preferred) then drill correct size hole for the dowel to fit, apple wood glue and press the dowel in place then redrill them correctly using a bench drill press.

 

[Turnaround]

If the screw is crooked going through the body, it's also crooked going into the neck. So both should be plugged and re-drilled.

 

[KingRazor]

I agree, maybe the neck is not sitting flush due to the screw angles. Personally I would get 1/4" wooden dowel rod (maple preferred) then drill correct size hole for the dowel to fit, apple wood glue and press the dowel in place then redrill them correctly using a bench drill press.

That's the plan, but I want it done a little more cleanly and precisely than I think I can manage myself, which is why I want to take it in to a pro.