Flatwounds for short/medium scale bass, low tension required.

C

cangaroo

Aug 13, 2009
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#1
Hi there, i'm the owner of an old 60s semiacoustic bass, scaled 30" from bridge saddles to zero fret, and i'm looking for a set of flatwounds string fitting its length.

low tension is required due to some neck problem the bass has developed with time.

The main issue is that the ball-end to silk scale length has to be something around 34.5 or sligthly less in order to fit my bass (the distance between the tailpiece where the ballend is inserted and the tuning peg is about 35.5").

Thomastik flats and Rotos Trubass are the only brands i'm aware of being universally recognized as low tension, unfortunately the JF324 (short scale) and RS88M (medium scale) won't fit the desired b.e.t.s. distance (they both fall over or after the tuning peg). The RS88S has the silk falling on the fingerboard.

So, finally the question is ... any of you is aware of any other brand equally low in tension but with the desired b.e.t.s. distance ?

Thank you !
 
#2
cangaroo said:
Hi there, i'm the owner of an old 60s semiacoustic bass, scaled 30" from bridge saddles to zero fret, and i'm looking for a set of flatwounds string fitting its length.

low tension is required due to some neck problem the bass has developed with time.

The main issue is that the ball-end to silk scale length has to be something around 34.5 or sligthly less in order to fit my bass (the distance between the tailpiece where the ballend is inserted and the tuning peg is about 35.5").

Thomastik flats and Rotos Trubass are the only brands i'm aware of being universally recognized as low tension, unfortunately the JF324 (short scale) and RS88M (medium scale) won't fit the desired b.e.t.s. distance (they both fall over or after the tuning peg). The RS88S has the silk falling on the fingerboard.

So, finally the question is ... any of you is aware of any other brand equally low in tension but with the desired b.e.t.s. distance ?

Thank you !
Click to expand...
1) Is replacing the tailpiece with one shorter or longer an option? It might open up possibilities;
2) How about adding something acting as a spacer behind the tailpiece, for the E and A, like a nut, a couple used strings' ball-ends, or half a mod bar? It would get the T-I .106 to fit by putting its full wrap away from the tuning post some.
 
#3
La Bella 39-96 flatwounds are probably your best bet, if not something really light like D'Addaro nylon tape wounds. Jason at bassstringsonline.com has tech articles to show how to measure from the string anchor to the nut to determine which scale of strings are needed, and a chart to show how long each manufacturer makes each scale.
 
#4
#5
#7
HaphAsSard said:
1) Is replacing the tailpiece with one shorter or longer an option? It might open up possibilities;
2) How about adding something acting as a spacer behind the tailpiece, for the E and A, like a nut, a couple used strings' ball-ends, or half a mod bar? It would get the T-I .106 to fit by putting its full wrap away from the tuning post some.
Click to expand...

Yep those are both two interesting options, but i'd rather look for some strings before modding the bass, even if in some subtle way.

I think i'll give a try to the "adding ball ends" solution, i think it's a good idea to start with. :)
 
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#8
cangaroo said:
Thomastik flats and Rotos Trubass are the only brands i'm aware of being universally recognized as low tension
Click to expand...

They're high flexibility, not low tension. Tension varies according to gauge.

You're concerned with how many pounds of pull are on the neck, not how bendy the strings are.

You can use any string of the correct length, just get lighter ones than you might normally use. I'd start with a set that has a .090 E string.
 
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