Fluted tuning machines?

smatanovic

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Apr 20, 2023
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I am contemplating a tuner upgrade for my bases. 3/4 currently have player series tuners, and the fourth has Classic Vibe. I find all four sets of tuning machines to be just ok. None are particularly stable or precise. Does switching to a fluted tuner like these from Fender increase tuning stability? I assume it would make it easier to get the correct break angle over the nut? Or is all of this just GAS and a waste of $$?
 
Not a waste. I used to use Jenz spiral tuners that guided the string to the base of the post. This adds stability to the headstock, many times eliminating dead spots. But most important for me, no need for string retainers (I hate the way they look).

If those fluted tuning posts force the string down to the base, that can only be beneficial. :thumbsup:
 
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I am not sure the fluted shaft portion makes as much as a difference as the overall quality and weight reduction of a lot of higher quality (and priced) choices. You can easily guide the strings down from top to bottom on a straight shaft tuning post as well.

I think overall of the tuners I have owned/tried, my favourite tuners are the Gotoh GB640 Res-O-Lite tuners. I have plenty of basses with Hipshots that are very good too.

The GraphTech Ratio tuners look intriguing and seem like a good idea to me. I've always noticed how the B-string is harder to tune as slight turns seem to move too drastically.
 
I find untaper tuning posts an unnecessary hassle. If I end up with a bass with untapped posts I either change the tuners immediately or sell the bass. The same goes for those goofy (vintage?) reverse tuners. But that's just me.
 
My 2017 Am.Prof Pbass has these fluted tuners, my 2008 Am.Std. Pbass has normal tuners with thicker/normal shafts.
Both are equally stable in terms of tuning, I prefer the thicker ones. They look more appropriate for a bass and the strings, especially along thick E string, does not have to bend too much on the tuner.
 
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I've never had bogus tuning keys, either exceptional like Schaller or Gotohs, or budget keys like my Squiers use.

I cut the strings to where the wraps end up at the bottom of the post, and I ONLY tune UP. If I go sharp, I back off to flat and come up to pitch, never back down to it.

A tiny bit of lube in the nut slots doesn't hurt, and on those big open gear Fender-style keys, I will take out the screw holding the big gear in place, sandpaper the face down side, add a bit of lube to that face and just a bit on the worm gear. Credit where credit's due, it's a Dan Erlewine/Stew Mac tweak.

And as always, you want the wraps on the post to look like this . . . .

RIGHT.jpg


. . . . and not like this:

OOPS.jpg
 
are they confusing fluted for tapered?
update: mmm yea... if not confusing, misusing.
1729805322316.jpeg
notwitwstanding the fact the actual flutes aren't tapered (much)

anyhow, i had a couple g&ls with similar tuners and i found them absolutely infuriatingly frustrating to get an even wind down the tapered shaft. just get a feel for the amount of winds necessary to put the final wind down by the ferrule on a cylindrical shaft.
 
I don't see any practical advantage to those but I have often wondered why tuning pegs are not knurled or otherwise roughened to improve string grip.
It isn't necessary; the grip (post friction) is already strong enough that you can snap the strings by increasing the string tension using the tuner.
 
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