G&L L2500 micro-tilt feature...how to adjust properly?

songwriter21

songwriter21

I have an obsession for wood. The musical kind.
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Jul 31, 2005
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#1
Hey All,

I've only seen a few threads regarding when this company had this feature, before they ruled it out in 1998. I'm getting a '97, and it has the little hole through the black neck plate. I'm guessing this is the same thing as what Peavey had on a lot of their models? I had a few Peavey G-V's with this, and it was a great feature, if done properly. You can look up Peavey manuals, which explained to me how to use the micro-tilt by loosening strings and neck bolts before adjusting. Now, the Peavey's had five bolts, and the G&L has six. I'd like to take advantage of this, as I like really low action. Some have said that the tilt doesn't do anything, and I think they didn't realize that you have to loosen strings and bolts for it to take effect. I thought it was pointless, too, when I didn't know how to adjust this on my first Peavey, but a future one...wow! I can't find much online as to how to properly loosen what bolts to what degree, or anything regarding this long-gone feature, and G&L aren't the greatest with responding to emails (from my memory). Do any of you out there have this feature on your vintage G&L, with the six-bolt attachment?

Thanks,

Ben
 
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#3
Yeah, I wasn't sure if there was any actual number of turns to do and no more. Peavey says something like two turns of the screwdriver on the front ones, and two on the back ones. I want to be as careful as possible to not create a "ski jump".
 
#4
songwriter21 said:
Yeah, I wasn't sure if there was any actual number of turns to do and no more. Peavey says something like two turns of the screwdriver on the front ones, and two on the back ones. I want to be as careful as possible to not create a "ski jump".
Click to expand...
If you want to be careful with respect to a Ski Jump then just adjust each saddle individually. I personally like the neck nice and tight against the body and have never liked the concept of Micro-tilt.
 
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#5
I do that every time, so that's a done deal. I used the tilt feature on the Peavey, and it sustained like a mofo with really nice action, and without it, the action was high for my blood. Hopefully everything goes smoothly with this one, too.
 
#6
Ski jump is generally caused by over tightening the neck bolts when you've made your adjustment, particularly the front ones. You want them snug, not cranked to all hell.
 
#8
songwriter21 said:
Hey All,
I've only seen a few threads regarding when this company had this feature, before they ruled it out in 1998. I'm getting a '97, and it has the little hole through the black neck plate. ... Do any of you out there have this feature on your vintage G&L, with the six-bolt attachment?
Thanks,
Ben
Click to expand...
Yes, my Jan-1997 has it, G&L dropped it shortly after, it was with the black crinkle 6-bolt neck plate before G&L changed it to the no-tilt chrome-plated one in mid-1997, and changd again in 1998 with the current no-plate 6-bolts with individual ferrules (with a few other significant changes).

The action is low on mine naturally, so I don't use the tilt attachment and the little screw is just floating. I've read it's prone to make the neck heel getting a ski-jump, the screw torque with six bolts is too much stress on the wood (edit - this was posted before reading the link from @202dy, now I understand ski-jump is a kink by the 12th fret, not caused by something in the heel to body contact surface - Thank you, 202dy).

Please show us pictures. I guess it has a 4+1 headstock and a 1-15/16th nut width.

There was a very nice one on ebay this week (apparently unsold): U.S.A. G&L L2500 5 STRING BASS GUITAR - RARE 1997
Is it that one that's coming to you now?

It's a wonderful bass, currently one of my #1's :laugh:. I posted a small video in the G&L Club Part 7 thread earlier this week.
 
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#9
Okay, cool, and no, mine (soon to be, anyway) is a beautiful green over ash (I'm a sucker for green). It's got a quartersawn neck, too!
 

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#12
Okay, Just humor me here>>>>

I set up my bass perfectly to my standards. I adjust the truss Rod to just a tiny bit of relief. My nut is spot on. Then I get the saddles precisely where I like them. I have a very tiny bit of Buzz which is exactly the way I like it.

So>>> Why in the world would I want to bother with Micro-Tilt??????

I wouldn't!!!! There's absolutely no reason to!!
 
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#14
FunkHead said:
Okay, Just humor me here>>>>

I set up my bass perfectly to my standards. I adjust the truss Rod to just a tiny bit of relief. My nut is spot on. Then I get the saddles precisely where I like them. I have a very tiny bit of Buzz which is exactly the way I like it.

So>>> Why in the world would I want to bother with Micro-Tilt??????

I wouldn't!!!! There's absolutely no reason to!!
Click to expand...

There is no reason to have a micro-tilt (or shim) for those instruments the way you like them to be set up.

For others it is likely different. Shimming or micro-tilt may be necessary to set up the instruments they way they like them.
 
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#15
202dy said:
There is no reason to have a micro-tilt (or shim) for those instruments the way you like them to be set up.

For others it is likely different. Shimming or micro-tilt may be necessary to set up the instruments they way they like them.
Click to expand...
Only if there some sort of problem like an improperly made neck or neck pocket. If the Saddles have the range to properly adjust then Micro-Tilt is an unnecessary feature. Even then, a "Full" shim is a much better option.
 
#16
FunkHead said:
Only if there some sort of problem like an' improperly made neck or neck pocket. If the Saddles have the range to properly adjust then Micro-Tilt is an unnecessary feature. Even then, a "Full" shim is a much better option.
Click to expand...

Maybe there is a problem. Usually not. Wood moves with the weather. And again, your perfect set up may not please anyone else.

Please explain why you think a micro-tilt adjuster is an unnecessary feature. Then explain why a "Full" shim is a much better option.
 
#17
202dy said:
Maybe there is a problem. Usually not. Wood moves with the weather. And again, your perfect set up may not please anyone else.

Please explain why you think a micro-tilt adjuster is an unnecessary feature. Then explain why a "Full" shim is a much better option.
Click to expand...
Sure: Tilting the neck and having it teetering on a single screw is piss poor engineering at best. You are then left tightening the neck screws in order to pull against the single screw. Hoping to get even tension on all the neck screws. If you tighten one side a little more than the other, you are now twisting the neck sideways. You are also limiting the contact of the neck wood to the body wood which can have an adverse affect.
For this process to be even slightly "accurate" Machine Screws and Threaded inserts would be needed. Along with a Torque wrench. But the problem is that you would still be creating a Gap in between the neck and body.
 
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#18
FunkHead said:
Sure: Tilting the neck and having it teetering on a single screw is piss poor engineering at best. You are then left tightening the neck screws in order to pull against the single screw. Hoping to get even tension on all the neck screws. If you tighten one side a little more than the other, you are now twisting the neck sideways. You are also limiting the contact of the neck wood to the body wood which can have an adverse affect.
Click to expand...

Please define your engineering comment. Or at least offer supporting information.

It is a simple thing to get even tension on the four screws. But even if you don't, there is no problem. Tightening one side more than the other doesn't twist anything, it simply tilts the base of the neck in that direction just like a shim tapered from the side.

Please elaborate on the affect that full contact has between neck and body.

But before you do, it would be wise to read the discussion on ski jumps on the pro board.
 
#19
I don't have a G&L with the micro-tilt, but several vintage Peaveys which have it. Works really nicely. Experimented quite a lot with it and couldn't find an effect on sustain etc. between having the neck *snug* against the body or having it *snug* against the micro-tilt.
 
#20
202dy said:
Please define your engineering comment. Or at least offer supporting information.

It is a simple thing to get even tension on the four screws. But even if you don't, there is no problem. Tightening one side more than the other doesn't twist anything, it simply tilts the base of the neck in that direction just like a shim tapered from the side.

Please elaborate on the affect that full contact has between neck and body.

But before you do, it would be wise to read the discussion on ski jumps on the pro board.
Click to expand...
How is it a simple thing to get even tension? We are talking about untrained people using a phillips screw driver. Clearly this system was a Flop and dumped by manufacturers.
 
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