Gibson Vs Gretsch

Gretsch or Gibson

  • Repair tbe Gibson SG bass

    Votes: 19 51.4%
  • Return it for a Gretsch G5442BDC

    Votes: 18 48.6%

  • Total voters
    37
I've got a new Gibson sg bass and have been having way too many electronics issues with it for a brand new instrument in that price range. I love the tone, and it plays well, but when playing live or in the studio I need a bass that I can trust to plug in and play with no BS. I'e been eying a Gretsch electromatic hollowbody. The short scale one, G5442BDC I believe the model number is. I'm considering returning the Gibson for one of these. I'm not looking for opinions on other basses, but do you guys think I should get the Gibson fixed for the second time or return it for a gretsch?
 
The input jack is fussy about patch cords, I think the ground part is bent, and I think there is a wiring problem somewhere with the ground as it makes some pretty awful noises if you aren't touching the strings, bridge or pickups. I've already taken it in for warranty work due to it making popping and clicking sounds if you put anything metal too close to it.
 
Ya know, I was just reading a thread like last night about a guy who was having noise problems with his SG bass and it turned out that static electricity was building up in his bass. If it’s not something obvious like a solder joint, bad jack or disconnected ground wire, you might look into that.

One guy recommended keeping a dryer sheet in the case to prevent it from happening again, but iirc the immediate fix was spraying some anti-static spray somewhere. I’d be very careful about spraying anything on that nitro finish though, so proceed with caution in that regard.

Also, I’ve found copper shielding (in the electronics cavities) to really help with quieting down noisy instruments.
 
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The static SG was the one in question right now lol.

That was your bass? Small forum world! I guess the anti-static spray thing didn’t work out, eh? Did you try the anti-static dryer sheet thing?

Also, i wonder, is humidity really low where you are?

I can see how you’d be getting frustrated after chasing this hard-to-get-a-handle-on problem for a while with no resolution yet...
 
'94  Gretsch    G6119B.JPG Control Cavity 1.JPG I'm conflicted about this. I have a Gretsch, too, and it's very, very nice. But, a) it's not the world's most versatile bass, nor is it well suited for a lot of today's music; and 2) it has electronic troubles of it's own - as well as the potential for massive feedback if played on stage, especially as loud as people play today. On the other hand:
This is the control cavity in my very expensive '18 T-Bird. Does your SG's resemble this...mess? Mine works, and no problems so far, but... my '13 T-Bird's wiring is a textbook example of How To Do It Correctly. I think the guy who wired it must have died/retired shortly afterwards, 'cause he certainly didn't make this mess...:(
In your place, I think I would have someone who's very competent diagnose your problem, and fix it. And, unless you just have to have a hollow body bass, I'd keep the SG...:thumbsup:
 
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Versatility isn't an issue as we play all original music, and it's indie folk and Americana so the bass isn't usually cranked to 11. I also own a fender mustang and an epiphone explorer so my tones are covered. The static pops and clicks have gone but the humming and static while not touching/grounding the strings is new. I've heard Gibson has been struggling so maybe they've cut costs in the QC department?
 
View attachment 2955679 View attachment 2955677 I'm conflicted about this. I have a Gretsch, too, and it's very, very nice. But, a) it's not the world's most versatile bass, nor is it well suited for a lot of today's music; and 2) it has electronic troubles of it's own - as well as the potential for massive feedback if played on stage, especially as loud as people play today. On the other hand:
This is the control cavity in my very expensive '18 T-Bird. Does your SG's resemble this...mess? Mine works, and no problems so far, but... my '13 T-Bird's wiring is a textbook example of How To Do It Correctly. I think the guy who wired it must have died/retired shortly afterwards, 'cause he certainly didn't make this mess...:(
In your place, I think I would have someone who's very competent diagnose your problem, and fix it. And, unless you just have to have a hollow body bass, I'd keep the SG...:thumbsup:
Also, the tech where I bought the bass from and have warranty with is far from competent. I'e gotten free stuff from that store thanks to his blunders with my gear.
 
View attachment 2955679 View attachment 2955677 I'm conflicted about this. I have a Gretsch, too, and it's very, very nice. But, a) it's not the world's most versatile bass, nor is it well suited for a lot of today's music; and 2) it has electronic troubles of it's own - as well as the potential for massive feedback if played on stage, especially as loud as people play today. On the other hand:
This is the control cavity in my very expensive '18 T-Bird. Does your SG's resemble this...mess? Mine works, and no problems so far, but... my '13 T-Bird's wiring is a textbook example of How To Do It Correctly. I think the guy who wired it must have died/retired shortly afterwards, 'cause he certainly didn't make this mess...:(
In your place, I think I would have someone who's very competent diagnose your problem, and fix it. And, unless you just have to have a hollow body bass, I'd keep the SG...:thumbsup:

I mean I'm No wiring wizard myself but it looks clean enough to me. Are the gretsch full hollow bodies or do they have a solid core with hollow wings?
20180211_174858.jpg
 
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That's pretty much what the wiring in my '13 T-Bird looks like. I envy you...
As to Gretsches; they have been making a line of semi-hollow body guitars for a year or two now; but as far as basses go, the closest thing you can get to a semi-hollow is a Billy Bo bass, which is chambered - and rather expensive. But, from how you describe your music, the short scale Electromatic bass would probably work just fine. Just remember;
- it will need at least medium scale strings (my short scale Broadkaster uses long scale);
- don't play it right in front of your amp - it will give you feed back, if you give it the chance; and
- watch out for wolf tones. Hollow body Gretsches are notorious for that. Annoying, but an easy fix...:thumbsup:
 
I wanted to chime in on using the Gretsch on stage. I actually (but infrequently) gig my Gretsch G5123B, the bigger 32" version of the hollow body Electromatic.
Initially I used a 31 band eq in my amp rack to prevent feedback for rock/blues. Worked fine.
More recently, I have used it in a 60/70s style power trio, with great results and no feedback. You only need to keep one hand on the strings, if leaning over to pick something up, fiddle with your papers etc.
Perfect sound (with rounds!) for Beatles, CCR, John Denver etc.
 
If you're having "many electronics issues" and you bought it new you should give Gibson Customer Service a call. I've had to call them twice with issues, one was a broken tenon cover and broken pickup surround on a new SG guitar, and another was with a lifting pickguard on a Gibson acoustic, and they were very quick to make it right and mailed me out replacement parts pretty darn fast.

Sounds to me though that you're just looking for an excuse to return it and get a Gretsch.
 
Wolf tones? Sounds way more awesome than it probably is

'94  Gretsch    G6119B.JPG Yeah, it's more annoying than anything else. Wolf tones are when the strings between the bridge and the tailpiece decide they want to play along with you. Which does sound strange. You can make them go away, in some cases, by palm muting. Doesn't work too well for me on this thing, though. Most Gretsch guitar players weave something between the strings behind the bridge; which works very well. There was an English member of The Gretsch Pages forum, who made custom Gretsch guitar straps with a matching wolf tone mute. Very sharp looking... My Broadkaster had bad wolf tones, plus an annoying rattle in the tailpiece. I got rid of both with a piece of moleskin under the tailpiece where it comes over the body. I've also heard of people getting them from the strings between the nut and the tuners, but that's pretty rare...:whistle:
 
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If the bass in question were mine and I liked it well enough apart from the buzzing/grounding annoyances, I'd take it to get fixed out of sheer principle regardless of the brand. Stuff like that is unacceptable on a brand new instrument IMO.

Is there another place/tech that it could be taken to get fixed under warranty given your description of the current "tech" ?

Good luck with whichever path you end up taking.
 
If the bass in question were mine and I liked it well enough apart from the buzzing/grounding annoyances, I'd take it to get fixed out of sheer principle regardless of the brand. Stuff like that is unacceptable on a brand new instrument IMO.

Is there another place/tech that it could be taken to get fixed under warranty given your description of the current "tech" ?

Good luck with whichever path you end up taking.

Or, you could send it to Dave Reume (Dave's World of Fun Stuff) in Toronto. I imagine he could fix it without too much trouble; and, your bass might even wind up on a YouTube episode. Which, I would definitely watch...:whistle: