Gretsch G5265 Bass VI

I’m looking at this because it is cheap and looks cool. Has anyone used it and can comment on which available strings can be used on it for proper E to E Bass VI tuning? I’m getting a lot of mixed information.

Alternatively is there a drop-in hardtail replacement for the Bigsby to avoid the issue? Thanks.
 
Well, it's almost a 30" scale - kinda long for a baritone guitar (my Eastwood Sidejack is only 28" scale). If you left the Bigsby in place, I imagine Bass VI strings would work. If you're dead set on getting rid of the Bigsby, a Gibson style stop tailpiece would work. Other Gretsches use them - or something very similar... You will be left with some holes, regardless of what tailpiece you use, though. Bigsby's have a big footprint... And, I would bet you'll wind up having to custom make string sets for it, anyway - unless you just leave it as a baritone guitar. Hate to say it, but this is one of those projects that can wind up being more trouble than they're worth - unless you feel that your world will end if you don't do it. Why not just get a Squier Vintage Bass VI, anyway? Not saying you should; just asking...;)
 
It's 29.75", which is the same scale-length as the vintage Danelectro 6-string bass. Throw on some thicker strings, and it should work without any issue (I'd advise replacing the stock TOM bridge with one with roller-saddles though).

LaBella Bass VI strings are de-facto 34" scale strings, since they need to accomodate for the extra piece of string between the vibrato unit and the tailpiece , I think the Gretsch is 0.5" longer in that regard, so those should fit. You can also take a look at Kalium Strings, those will fit!
 
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I played one of these while shopping for baritone / VI and thought "meh".
Perfectly adequate but unexciting. I found the mini-humbuckers bland.
If you like the shape but not the Bigsby then try a Danelectro instead.
The lipstick pups are uniquely cool. It's also significantly cheaper.
Beware the ones with a wooden bridge though.
 
I played one of these while shopping for baritone / VI and thought "meh".
Perfectly adequate but unexciting. I found the mini-humbuckers bland.
If you like the shape but not the Bigsby then try a Danelectro instead.
The lipstick pups are uniquely cool. It's also significantly cheaper.
Beware the ones with a wooden bridge though.

I ended up with an Eastwood TB64. It’s great.
 
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I have one of the first generation G5265s (29.75" scale). Did not care for the stock mini HB PUs and swapped them out for a left over set of short pole "budget line" DeArmond 2000s, used on many Gretsches in the 1990's & early 2000's Korean models. Clearer and better low end, more surf spank when needed. Used foam or neoprene rings (like on a Rickenbacker 6 string) for height adjustment.

Added a dual concentric pot for a master volume & tone (the other two are Neck/Bridge PU volumes).

They originally came strung E1 (later via Gretsch in B).. the extra length required due to the Bigsby will cause some sets to be too short (usually the 3rd & 4th string).

The stock strings were Fender 5350 Bass VI (25-95).
I currently have it tuned to A (I believe I have Pyramid "Gretsch Baritone" strings on there now (14-72), brass ball ends, they are very long between 125-130cm).

The D'Addario EXL157 (14-68) & EXL158 (13-62) should just fit for the 3rd & 4th strings (just held those two up to check).

When I was still using it for E1 tuning, I made a set of flats using single Pyramid Gold flats, using individual strings intended for different scale lengths to get a full set. Worked out well (unfortunately I don't remember what I used, it was years ago - I went by the measurements which Pyramid published & it functioned).

The current Pyramid VI Flat wounds (25-85) are listed as having a "Total length: 100 cm" (39.37") which might just fit, but will be very tight on the 4th & 3rd.

You can swap out the Tele type top mounted Bigsby (not my favorite type, but it works) for a hard tail (or perhaps a Gretsch trapeze tail piece - if the break angle is enough... haven't tried it); HOWEVER, it will leave you with 6 holes in the top to deal with (5 Bigsby screws & the ground wire).

The old G5265 is definitely not a top end instrument, but it is still very playable (with a bit of fret end smoothing) and fun (albeit a bit heavy, despite the basswood body). The Corts and even current Squier baris are probably better, but the 29.75" scale is nice.

You can still often find them used cheap as chips. I believe the newer models are a bit better build quality and available as hard tails e.g.the G5260 EMTC Jet... same old top mount type mini HB PUs though). PUs with DeArmond & Rickenbacker HiGain/Toaster formats should fit without too much trouble, with a bit more routing work, P-90s (or other mini HBs in a P-90 conversion ring) could be fit. GFS & Roswell both have top mount PUs in these sizes. TV-Jones also has DeArmond mount models for most of his PUs... but they would cost more than a G5265 new ....

Here 3 of my 4 Bari siblings, left to right: Gretsch G5265 [29.75" scale], Cort Sunset [28.6" scale], Fender "Modern Player Plus" Telecaster (CIC) [now 27.96 scale] with a (bought used w/ the water slide logo..) Gödo baritone conversion neck (was a bugger to fit since in CN the original 22 fret neck used a deeper neck pocket instead of a FB overhang, had to fill the base of the rout with a maple extension). The other is also a Gödo Tele Conversion with 2 CC PUs, but in the band room not here, so no pic:


3-bari.jpg
 
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I’m looking at this because it is cheap and looks cool. Has anyone used it and can comment on which available strings can be used on it for proper E to E Bass VI tuning? I’m getting a lot of mixed information.

Alternatively is there a drop-in hardtail replacement for the Bigsby to avoid the issue? Thanks.
I know this is really late now, but since its bumped - A stack of washers and a longer bolt in place of the spring can turn a bigsby or the assortment of similar trems into a stop tail without changing the stock appearance of the instrument significantly.
 
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I know this is really late now, but since its bumped - A stack of washers and a longer bolt in place of the spring can turn a bigsby or the assortment of similar trems into a stop tail without changing the stock appearance of the instrument significantly.

Yupp, that does work if you only wish to disable the Bigsby (they are not as bad concerning tuning stability as many believe, as long as the strings do not bind at either the saddles or nut - that normally is what causes that issue), but the extra string length required due to the Bigsby remains, which I believe was the OP's issue (e.g. with Labellas).

Swapping the string bar and the break angle bar would help (+ ca. 5 cm or 2" added to the length of the strings), but it would not be trivial and the string bar would need to be locked in place, e.g. via bolts (by drilling) through the Bigsby frame & bar bolt and the arm mechanism removed.... personally I would rather fill holes and add a stop tail or a trapeze tail piece rather than attempt that...

@PianoOfDoom ... if you wish to use E1 tuning, I would be weary of a low E below 90... I think I was using 95 or 100 when I had the normal Pyramid flats on mine. But who knows, Pyramid may have a thicker core on that Bass VI set (I never tried them & am still unsure if they are long enough @ 100cm for the Gretsch bari w/ a Bigsby... the newer G5260 hard tails should pose less of an issue with string length).
 
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Yupp, that does work if you only wish to disable the Bigsby (they are not as bad concerning tuning stability as many believe, as long as the strings do not bind at either the saddles or nut - that normally is what causes that issue), but the extra string length required due to the Bigsby remains, which I believe was the OP's issue (e.g. with Labellas).

Swapping the string bar and the break angle bar would help (+ ca. 5 cm or 2" added to the length of the strings), but it would not be trivial and the string bar would need to be locked in place, e.g. via bolts (by drilling) through the Bigsby frame & bar bolt and the arm mechanism removed.... personally I would rather fill holes and add a stop tail or a trapeze tail piece rather than attempt that...

@PianoOfDoom ... if you wish to use E1 tuning, I would be weary of a low E below 90... I think I was using 95 or 100 when I had the normal Pyramid flats on mine. But who knows, Pyramid may have a thicker core on that Bass VI set (I never tried them & am still unsure if they are long enough @ 100cm for the Gretsch bari w/ a Bigsby... the newer G5260 hard tails should pose less of an issue with string length).
You're right I missed that they were trying to use short strings. In that case one could just drill the tension bar to use as a stop tail. Oh well, since there is a stock hard tail option none of any of this makes sense to begin with.
 
I believe @PianoOfDoom bought a G5265 within the last year due to a post in another thread... but for others who have not bought one yet, true, the hard tail option makes choosing strings easier.

Drilling through the tension bar, that's an idea. Somewhere in my parts bins I have a Tele type Bigsby, would need to check it... I don't remember if it is a sheath around a stainless steel axle of a single piece. I've seen people remove the pins and drill the holes to accommodate E2 guitar strings on the lower bar, so it might be possible.
 
@PianoOfDoom

You asked in that other thread "does anyone know of a pickup upgrade that drops in without adapters? it looks like the Dearmond size is almost right, but not quite"

As you can see above, yes they do, but I did have to lightly sand two sides of the rout (ca. 1mm) for them to fit.

Important though, only DeArmonds with the poles which do not have the long poles with springs outside of the PU housing will fit depth wise w/out extensive routing.


The DeArmonds used on older Korean Gretsch guitars (unlike the info on the picture below, they were also used in the 1990s) "DeArmond 2000 w/ Alnico" ; the DeArmond 2k with Ceramic magnets (Gretsch never used these, nor have I, they supposedly are a bit more aggressive & P-90 like); or some of the very recent re-issues for DeArmond/Guilds.

The TV-Jones T-Armonds have shorter magnets/springs/screws than the standard "Dynasonics"; but would still require (on the G5265 at least) a deeper rout.

I.e. the first two would be easy to fit, the third would not.

In the second picture linked below you can see on the Pickup in the upper left hand corner, just how long those poles and screws can protrude below the bottom of the pickup on the standard DeArmond models with long poles.

First Picture:

Dearmond-50s-90s-00s-2k-2000-Pickups-Back-Labeled.jpg



Second Picture:

https://www.talkbass.com/attachments/pus-tb-jpg.5134215/
 
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So I took a look during my lunch break for the Bigsby in my parts bins, didn't find it yet :(

But here are the foot prints for some PU types which should require minimal adjustments for the G5265 (can't find my calipers either unfortunately):

From Left to right (for both pictures):
1) Gretsch Staple P-90 (may require some light routing for depth). These can be bought separately and are fairly cheap..
2) Original G5265 Gretsch top Mount Mini HB
3) Gibson P-90 Soap Bar (may require some light routing for depth, the footprint is slightly smaller than the Gretsch Mini HB). A dog ear would probably also be possible, but require two holes per PU in the top.
4) Rickenbacker HiGain (is slightly longer and wider than the Mini HB, a bit of widening of the rout would be required - Toasters have the same footprint, but may require a deeper rout if it is a model with longer pole pieces - they varied, and some aftermarket winders use the longer pole pieces)
5) DeArmond Long Pole (as above the long poles would require depth routing, the models with the contained pole pieces do not)

Front:
PUFRNT-tbass.jpg


Back:

PUBK-tbass.jpg
 
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