Guild Bass Replacement Bridge "Hack"?

I love Guild basses, but not the lack of adjustability of their 3 Point Bridges. I've got 4 - two B-301's, a B-302A, and an SB-202. 3 of the 4 came with some sort of metal shim beneath, one or more of, the roller/saddles, put their by the previous owner in order to try and get the action to their satisfaction.

I've found that a Babicz 3 Point "Gibson" replacement bridge can be installed without any major mods to the bass. The inserts and mounting screws are larger on the Guilds than on the Gibsons. On two of my basses, I had the inserts removed and replaced with Gibsons and then used the screws supplied by Babicz to install the bridge. On the other two, the bridges are attached with socket cap screws with no additional work required. The bridge does sit on top of the insert flanges, but, I find it to be, a vast improvement from the stock bridges. And, the bass can be returned to its original condition, if desired.

Here are a couple of pics. The bolt size is visible on the bag and I got them at Home Depot for $1.54 a pair. Also, a grinder can smooth out the ridges (on the edge) and writing (on the top) and will make the screw match the bridge more in appearance as on the Ash bass pictured.
FullSizeRender 4.jpg FullSizeRender 5.jpg guild.jpg
 
An addendum:
A tech (recommended by Jeff Babbicz) did the install of my first bridge using this method. When I did it myself, I found that the "socket cap screws" (SCS) were slightly larger than the diameter of the mounting holes in the bridge. They did not slide through the holes freely. I assume the tech either machined the holes a touch larger or did what I wound up doing. What I did was to screw the SCC's into the openings. I did this with the appropriate size allen wrench while the bridge was off of the bass. It took a little force but not much at all. Then I removed the SCS's This made the inside of the holes look as if they'd been threaded. I then used a small, round file and filed those "threads" off, smoothing out the inside of the mounting holes. This was enough to allow the SCS's to slide smoothly through the mounting holes.
 
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Hello,
Thanks for posting about this.
Did the Babbicz bridge help with the action on the 301? I found that I can't get the stock bridge low enough for my liking w/o fret buzz (so bad that they actually mute) when I play at around the 12th fret.
Also, did you find some strings work better than others? I was thinking of taking off the Ernie Ball reg (105-45) and trying GHS Pressure Wound med/light (102-44). I use the GHS PWs on my P bass and love them on that.
Thanks for any help.
 
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You're welcome. I hope you find it helpful. I like the fact that it lets me fine tune the height of each individual string. I find that most three point bridges force me to compromise. Most of the Guilds I have came with some sort of shim under one or more string saddles. I use D'Addario EXL 220's on all my basses because I like them and just for the sake of consistency.
 
Awesome! Your post and picsdid help me a lot. I did watch a couple YouTube vids on how those bass bridges work. I just ordered mine!
I think I have an idea of how your tech may have put in your first bridge. If it works out I'll post pics with dimensions (I'm a machinist in my other life).
I can't wait to jam on the 301! Thanks again.
 
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I used to have a B-301 mahogany. If I recall correctly, the bridge was the one thing I did not like about the bass. If I had one now, and wasn't worrying about the value or anything, and just getting it to play to my liking, I think I would get rid of the 3 point bridge altogether and replace it with something I liked, and was fully adjustable.
 
I used to have a B-301 mahogany. If I recall correctly, the bridge was the one thing I did not like about the bass. If I had one now, and wasn't worrying about the value or anything, and just getting it to play to my liking, I think I would get rid of the 3 point bridge altogether and replace it with something I liked, and was fully adjustable.
I've got 4 Guilds now, all with Babicz bridges. On two of them, I had the inserts changed out and on the other two, only the mounting screws were changed. The nice thing about changing out the mounting screws is that the bass can be returned to its original condition in just a few minutes.
 
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I used to have a B-301 mahogany. If I recall correctly, the bridge was the one thing I did not like about the bass. If I had one now, and wasn't worrying about the value or anything, and just getting it to play to my liking, I think I would get rid of the 3 point bridge altogether and replace it with something I liked, and was fully adjustable.

I agree, that's why this post helped me so much. I didn't want to alter anything that would be permanent for these older pre-Fender Guilds seem to be creeping up in value. Actually, I like to keep all of my basses as stock as possible. It's just that the stock Guild bridge on these 300 series are horrible.
 
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I was meaning I would go drastic, and would pull the inserts and plug the holes, and install something else. ..abandoning the 3 post system altogether.

I had an el Degas Grabber copy that had a 3 point bridge that sucked as well. I just don't like the post type design at all.
 
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I was meaning I would go drastic, and would pull the inserts and plug the holes, and install something else. ..abandoning the 3 post system altogether.

I had an el Degas Grabber copy that had a 3 point bridge that sucked as well. I just don't like the post type design at all.
With the Babicz you use the inserts just for mounting purposes and then it pretty much acts as a fixed bridge with individual saddle adjustments.
Check it out. Babicz Full Contact Hardware - With "eCAM" Saddle Technology from Babicz - FCH 3-Point Four String Bass Bridge (Gibson Style)
 
I just mounted my Babicz bridge to my Guild B-301. Awesome upgrade from the stock 3 pt bridge.
Thanks to TJH3113 for the recommendation!
How I mounted mine was very similar to the above method except that I used stainless steel screws.
2 x m10 1.5 x 25 stainless hex head screws.
In a lathe, I turned the heads down to .490" W and .210 H. I then cut a .0625 slot .090 deep and polished the heads to look like the stock screws.
Then, on the lathe, I hit the threads with a file to take off only about .005 from the threads so that they would sneak through the bridge mounting holes..
Using this method I didn't alter the bass or the bridge at all and it looks very close to chrome w/o being chrome.
 

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Again, thanks for the recommendation! I never heard of Babicz before. I may put one on my Fender P Bass as well.
Sure, I'll make you a set of these. Just cover the screw cost (1.50 each) and shipping is all.
I make them at work (on my break, of course) so I'm already getting paid.
 
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NICE!!! I think these bridges make a world of difference on my basses.
I might be getting another Guild (an SB 201). Would you be interested in making another pair of these and what might you charge?

The SB series have the same 3 pt bridge, huh?
When I see SB I think of the Aria Pro II SB series. I have an 80s era SB 1000. Awesome well built bass for $350.
The 301 is my 1st Guild bass. When I was 12/13 or so, I saw the 301's/302's in the local music shop window, but obviously couldn't afford one with my paper route $$! so I recently bought one.
 
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Again, thanks for the recommendation! I never heard of Babicz before. I may put one on my Fender P Bass as well.
Sure, I'll make you a set of these. Just cover the screw cost (1.50 each) and shipping is all.
I make them at work (on my break, of course) so I'm already getting paid.

Rich,
May I also place an "order" for a pair of these screws? I also would like to upgrade my B-301 bridge with the Babicz without having to modify the bass. Thanks!
 
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The SB series have the same 3 pt bridge, huh?
When I see SB I think of the Aria Pro II SB series. I have an 80s era SB 1000. Awesome well built bass for $350.
The 301 is my 1st Guild bass. When I was 12/13 or so, I saw the 301's/302's in the local music shop window, but obviously couldn't afford one with my paper route $$! so I recently bought one.
Yeah, the SB-201 and 202 are essentially the same bass as the 3 series, but with a more traditional body style. They also made a 203 which has 3 pick-ups. I always wanted one when I was a kid as well but my local music store didn't carry them - special order only. Over the last two years I started buying up some of the basses I'd owned when I was younger and some of the basses I'd always wanted to own. I fell in love with the Guilds.
Here's the SB-202 -
 

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Yeah, the SB-201 and 202 are essentially the same bass as the 3 series, but with a more traditional body style. They also made a 203 which has 3 pick-ups. I always wanted one when I was a kid as well but my local music store didn't carry them - special order only. Over the last two years I started buying up some of the basses I'd owned when I was younger and some of the basses I'd always wanted to own. I fell in love with the Guilds.
Here's the SB-202 -
Love that color!(and that custom pg,too.)
I've not really bonded with mine,but that may be because i bought a yamaha bb1200 and a Rick Laredo i had customised into something i really love,and have spent a lot of time getting into those 2 basses. The sb202 sounds really great whenever i do pick it up,though.
 
Nice bass! My wish list would be huge and the basses that I desire now cost more used than some newer ones cost new. How many do you have in total? I have 5, but got rid of a couple older ones that I wish that I kept like my white Carvin LB-50. I only have one bass left that I actually bought new and that's an 86 Charvel 2B (junk compared to my other basses, but Charvel/Jackson was the flavor at the time). I keep it because it isn't worth much.
 
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