Guitar build thread: The WMD Telecaster

May 20, 2021
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Eugene, OR
I began work today on a project I've been planning for a couple of months. I've never built an instrument before, but as this is the year I turn 40 (in less than a month) and my Dad turns 70 (in November) I thought it would be a fun project for us to work on together. Dad has a well equipped shop and a good amount of experience working with wood, while I've done bass and guitar hardware and electronics before and - hopefully - know enough to design a good instrument. This is a guitar build that's more Telecaster than anything else, though I've made a few changes in the design to suit my own preferences. I'll get into those in a bit.

The woods I've chosen to work with here are all native to the Pacific Northwest (or at least they've been here long enough that they're well established). For the neck I'm using Walnut and Oregon Myrtlewood, and for the body I'm using Douglas Fir. Hence, WMD. Walnut, Myrtlewood, Doug Fir. Here's the raw materials before any cutting began.

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The neck is going to be a 5 piece laminate with the Walnut as well as a couple of stripes if Myrtle, because the board I bought to use for the fretboard had more than enough to do both, and because I've always liked the look of the mahogany stripes in the Yamaha BB headstocks - this ought to end up looking something like that, but with the dark and light colors reversed. Here's the glue-up of the neck blank:
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A better view before glueing and clamping it all together:

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You can already see my first mistake - when I cut the Myrtlewood stripes, I made them wider than the thickness of the walnut. I went ahead but realized while glueing them together that this made it harder to ensure that the back of the board is totally flush. I left the board thick enough that I can plane it down a bit and still be at 1" once the fretboard gets glued on, so I don't think it's a critical error,.just something to learn from for now.


Speaking of the fretboard... Check out the ripples figuring in this Myrtlewood! It's even more striking in person, and I haven't even sanded it smooth yet.

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I also got the body blank glued up. This is a bit less exciting looking for now, though the grain on the Doug Fir is nice and straight and I think it'll look nice once it's finished.

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Now for error number 2: I accidentally planed this down thinner than I had meant to go, I was aiming for a bit over 1.75" but ended up with 1.70, and it'll lose a bit of that with sanding. I think it'll be ok but I'm going to measure my electric components first to make sure I can get my cavities deep enough without leaving too little on the back. Worst case scenario, I'll get a drop top of something pretty like big leaf Maple or redwood, but I'm hoping it won't come to that.

I chose to make this with some woods that I found very attractive, so I'm sticking with a simple Tru Oil finish on this to let the beauty of the wood shine through. I plan to keep it fairly satin, no shiny gloss finish needed here.

Now for the technical details:

The body will be a standard telecaster shape with a standard Tele bridge, but instead of the single coil pickup I've got a DiMarzio Tone Zone T, a high output rail humbucker. The neck is going to have a Bootstrap Squeaky Mean POP, which is also a fairly high output pickup. Needless to say this is going to be a gnarlier sounding instrument than my standard single coil equipped Squier Tele. The neck is going to be a thick, chunky club based on the 1954 Telecaster profile (I am using the Stew Mac template for the neck profile), but with a more gentle 9.5" radius. For the headstock I'm doing a Rx'd configuration based on a MusicMan style guitar, final design still TBD. It'll be a standard Fender 25.5" scale length.

Electronics wise, I've got a four way switch, which I'm wiring up to have the standard Telecaster pickup options, plus one that puts the neck and bridge pickups in series. The bridge pickup is also going to be connected to a push/pull pot which will split one of the coils off, so this is going to have a lot of options as far as electronics settings go. I'm sticking to the standard master volume and master tone control, with a .022 uF cap on 500K pots.

This is going to me a slow moving project as I'm limited to time on the weekends and maybe an occasional weekday evening, but I'm also in the middle of a kitchen remodel and I've got two young kids that demand a lot of attention. So please follow along and offer your thoughts if you're interested, but be aware that this will take a while to finish up.
 
Looks good. I’ve used some Myrtle before and it looks great. I wouldn’t worry too much about the body thickness. You might measure the push pull pot I think you said you’re using but several folks here regularly make their bodies 1 1/2” or a bit less with no problems.
 
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Nice! Good choice on woods. I like thinner bodies, so I usually build at between 1.25” and 1.5” thickness. For what you describe, it shouldn’t be a problem at all.

My favorite Tele-shaped object uses a DiMarzio Super Distortion T rail humbucker. That pickup is really what made me a fan of DiMarzio guitar pickups.

Looking forward to seeing more!
 
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Nice! Good choice on woods. I like thinner bodies, so I usually build at between 1.25” and 1.5” thickness. For what you describe, it shouldn’t be a problem at all.

My favorite Tele-shaped object uses a DiMarzio Super Distortion T rail humbucker. That pickup is really what made me a fan of DiMarzio guitar pickups.

Looking forward to seeing more!

I listened to clips of both the Tone Zone and the Super Distortion, but ended up settling on the Tone Zone as I liked the sound just a little better, and because it seemed a better match, output wise, with the P90.

I am excited about the P90- I have a set of Bootstrap Extra Crispy pickups in my Squier Tele and they're great. Hard to believe the set only cost $50.
 
Looks great! I agree with others: 1.7 is still a pretty beefy body. You will likely be fine.

Funny, just last week I purchased a couple of nicely figured Myrtle boards online for an upcoming (distant future) Alembic inspired build. I have never seen Myrtle at my local hardwood store despite it being a NA native species.
 
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Looking good, that Myrtle is lovely.
Think my current Tele build is only 37 or 38mm thick which is way less than 1.7"… although I have only just enough depth for the switch.

I've got an Oak Grigsby 4 way switch, the same one I use in my Squier Tele. In that guitar it's the part that needs the greatest depth, though the push/pull pot I'm using for the tone and coil split might beat it slightly for this new build. I'll just measure carefully I suppose, but I'm optimistic that it'll be fine.
 
Slow day today as we had to rip cut the glue line on the body blank and re-glue it due to a silly error last week - in an effort to keep the workbench clean from glue drips, my dad got some green plastic film wrap to put around the bench. A bit of it got stuck in between the two halves, leaving a thin but pretty visible green line. It's glued up again and curing, nothing much to do for now on that.

What we did accomplish was trimming and planing down the neck blank, and I'm really happy with how it turned out!

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Here's what it will look like, more or less. I haven't quite finished the neck template yet, so that will be my homework for the next session.

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Should I be concerned that the end of the truss rod goes all the way to the 21st fret? The heel of the neck will actually be about half an inch beyond that, but that seems like a long way back for it to go. I got the rod from bitterroot and I'm sure I can exchange it for a shorter one if that one is too long.

Next time we should be able to cut the body and route the truss rod channel. Dad also made a miter box for my fret slot saw that I think looks pretty nice.

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Looking good!

Should I be concerned that the end of the truss rod goes all the way to the 21st fret? The heel of the neck will actually be about half an inch beyond that, but that seems like a long way back for it to go. I got the rod from bitterroot and I'm sure I can exchange it for a shorter one if that one is too long.

I would probably try to get a shorter rod. It looks like the slot for the rod will have to exit beyond the end of the fretboard which probably isn't the look your are going for.
 
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Looking good!



I would probably try to get a shorter rod. It looks like the slot for the rod will have to exit beyond the end of the fretboard which probably isn't the look your are going for.

I'm not quite sure what you mean. The nut of the rod is right where I want it, and the heel end of the rod goes almost all the way to the end of the neck, but ends about half an inch before the end of the neck heel. The fretboard goes all the way to the heel. I am planning to follow this method at the headstock end, where the adjustment nut will be:

First Tele, first real build, need a little advice

If the end of the truss rod going that close to the heel of the neck is a problem, I'll exchange it, but it won't go past the fretboard. I bought that length because that's what Bitterroot recommended for an electric guitar neck.
 
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Sorry, I missed the part where you said it was short of the heel. Maybe it's just the angle but in the photo it looks like the heel end of the rod ends much closer to the heel than 1/2". If you do have 1/2" you should be fine, just keep in mind that if you are using a router to cut the slot the bit will cut an extra 1/8" of semi-circle (assuming a 1/4" bit) at the end of the slot.
 
Sorry, I missed the part where you said it was short of the heel. Maybe it's just the angle but in the photo it looks like the heel end of the rod ends much closer to the heel than 1/2". If you do have 1/2" you should be fine, just keep in mind that if you are using a router to cut the slot the bit will cut an extra 1/8" of semi-circle (assuming a 1/4" bit) at the end of the slot.

Your eyes weren't fooling you - I just did a bad job drawing the end of the board. That line that the rod is up against is the 21st fret, the actual end of the board extends beyond that another half inch.

Thanks, that's a good bit of info to remember!
 
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I took the day off work today to spend it in the shop with my dad working on the neck. Overall I'm quite pleased with the results, though I did make a couple of goofs with cutting the fret slots. Wouldn't be a shop day without a mistake or two I guess!

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The fruits of today's labor are a truss rod channel completely routed, a neck outline template finally made to my satisfaction, and a fretboard with fret slots cut.

As for the mistakes... I cut the 11th and 21st frets just slightly off where they should be. The error on the 11th fret is smaller than on the 21st, but I'm less concerned with the 21st fret because I rarely if ever play that high on the neck. I am thinking about filling the slot with Myrtle dust and titebond, then re-cutting, but I'm not sure if it's worth it - intonation is a series of compromises in any case. Would you fix this?

21st fret, somewhat flat
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11th fret, slightly sharp (this photo makes it look a bit worse than it really is, it's hard to get the angles just right with this ruler)
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Mistakes aside though, it was a great way to spend a day. Next up I think will be cutting the neck outline, though it may be a couple of weeks before I can get back into the shop to do that. I'm also just about ready to cut the body shape - here is the outline taped down onto the body blank (yes, there's wood under there). I do have to draw the outline of the P90 for the neck pickup though.
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I had a little more shop time today and was able to fix the miscut fret, after filling the slot with a thin strip of myrtle and CA glue. You can see the original plugged cut right next to the new one I made:
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I also got the neck pocket, pickup cavities, and control cavity routed out. Needless to say there was a lot of dust in the air - I used a dust mask but still feel like I've got crud in my sinuses (could also be grass pollen, in all fairness). I'm certainly going to rinse it out with a neti pot tonight before bed.
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I neglected to take photos of the process, but I spent a decent portion of father's day working on the body with my dad. Wiring channels, jack hole, string through holes, and bridge screw holes have all been drilled out, and some of the concave turns on the sides of the body we bored out with forstner bits. Next up is cutting the body out with a band saw. It's slow work, but that's because we are taking time to do this as carefully as possible.

I noticed during this process that the body blank has warped slightly and is now very subtly concave on the front face. I don't think I'm too concerned about it, as long as it doesn't continue to get worse. Any thoughts on this?
 
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