Double Bass Half Size Bass String Recomendation

Hi,
I'm new to the forum!
I would like a recommendation of new strings to put on my half size double bass that are easy to fret and won't kill my fingers after a few hours of playing.
I liked Corelli but needed to change recently and purchased Obligato's. I think I need a
synthetic non wound string for the G and D.
A friend mentioned Inovation Sliver Slap, however I'm told they don't come in half size.
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks!
Linda
 
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I liked Corelli but needed to change recently and purchased Obligato's. I think I need a
synthetic non wound string for the G and D.
I play a 1/2 scale bass, too. Right now it's strung with Spiro Weich 3/4 strings which work very well on the shorter scale, but I'm looking for a more thumpy sound for bluegrass/countryblues styles. Problem is that all (?) non wound synthetic strings are far too sloppy on a half size bass. I experimented with a set of Gut-A-Like Vintage and got acceptable results using the A string for D and the D string for G. But the E string for A I didn't even try because it's just too thick gaugewise and doen't make sense IMO. Anyhow it would mean significant adjustments to the bridge and nut slots and I don't want to go there.

After checking Hervé Jeanne's "String Matrix" for thumpy, gut-like sounding strings I ordered a set of Helicore Orchestrals which conveniently come in 1/2 size. Got them in the mail today. I'll put them on after work and play a 40 minute set with them at the Open Stage tonight and I'm anxious to see what happens. No time to break them in thoroughly before getting on stage... ;)
 
Welcome to the TalkBass/Double Bass side Linda! Nice taking with you and Mike at SusanVille!

Sorry to hear SilverSlaps aren't available for 1/2 size DBs. Looking at Gollihur's string catalog [NFI], it looks like Eurosonic White TapeWound are available in 1/2 size in Light or Medium tensions. I've played them on friends' DBs and their feel is similar to SilverSlaps. Eurosonics tend to get good reviews too. I'd be using them except they are metal core and sound a little bit more metallic than I'd like for my aluminum DB. But especially for the Light tension, they should be lots easier on the hands. I'd suggest a call and question/answer session with Mark at Gollihur to clarify.
 
Helicore Orchestrals have indeed a thumpy pizz tone, but I don't think you'd like playing them as they can feel quite tense under the fingers.
Did you try the Obligatos yet?
They come in half size sets too by the way.
Thank you for your response. I have tried Helicore, a couple of sets of Corelli and most recently the Obligato. The Obligatos are very tense to me. I’ve had them on my bass about 4 months. I’m considering changing them out for Eurosonics light or medium tension. Something easier on my hands.
 
Welcome to the TalkBass/Double Bass side Linda! Nice taking with you and Mike at SusanVille!

Sorry to hear SilverSlaps aren't available for 1/2 size DBs. Looking at Gollihur's string catalog [NFI], it looks like Eurosonic White TapeWound are available in 1/2 size in Light or Medium tensions. I've played them on friends' DBs and their feel is similar to SilverSlaps. Eurosonics tend to get good reviews too. I'd be using them except they are metal core and sound a little bit more metallic than I'd like for my aluminum DB. But especially for the Light tension, they should be lots easier on the hands. I'd suggest a call and question/answer session with Mark at Gollihur to clarify.


Don,
It was great to meet you at Susanville also. What a fun festival! Thank you for the suggestion on the Eurosonics. I plan to call Mark later and see if he can help me with my decision on new strings.
 
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Maybe your instrument needs some setup adjustments.
What's the height of the strings at the end of the fingerboard?
At the nut, do you have just enough clearance for a business card between the strings and fingerboard?
What the lenght of the strings between the nut and bridge?

I once had a bass I bought as an half size but with 100cm scale it was more likely a 5/8, so putting strings designed for half scale on a longer scale will elevate the tension.
 
Thanks for your response! I look forward to hearing how you made out with the new strings!

Helicore Orchestrals have indeed a thumpy pizz tone, but I don't think you'd like playing them as they can feel quite tense under the fingers.

We had a good time last night. The Helicore Orch did a good job. I really like the dark, thumpy tone. They do feel significantly stiffer than the Spiro Weich, which was to be expected.
 
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… I have tried Helicore, a couple of sets of Corelli and most recently the Obligato. The Obligatos are very tense to me. I’ve had them on my bass about 4 months. I’m considering changing them out for Eurosonics light or medium tension. Something easier on my hands.
Obligato are medium tension on a 3/4 scale and even lower tension than that on a 1/2 scale.
Corelli strings are medium low to medium tension, but thin and due to the steel core harder to press down than the more stretchy synthetic or gut cores.

Francois advise to visit a luthier for a setup check is a really good advise, but you need to decide first if you want a very low and more stretchy string tension at a higher string action (plain gut, synthetic core) or a medium to a bit higher tension at a very low string action (which both might need work on the fingerboard).
For your kind of music I would rather go the higher action route, but even for that the current action might a bit high.

The problem with a shorter scale instrument is that you need more mass at the vibrating string to get the same tension as on a 3/4 scale. So a 3/4 string on a 1/2 strings scale instrument gives you a lower tension.
In general you can mount 3/4 strings on a 1/2 size instrument. Just have the silk part go through the hole, not the playable wound part. Do a few windings away from the nut slot and then do a quick crossing over the previous windings and the wind on the other side of the peg hole. Avoid contacting the peg box with the string on the peg!

The other thing is that the shorter the scale the thinner the string needs to be to vibrate and sustain well in higher positions. So a string that is easy to press down due to its thickness might get a shorter sustain the shorter the vibrating string length is. Not much of a problem if you stay away from thumb position, but if you want to play up there sometimes or often, a thick string might not be a solution.

It can happen that a wound string that is wound onto the peg breaks the winding (mostly synthetic wound) or cut into the core (metal wound, synthetic or silk core). But that hasn’t ever happened to me (but a few others).
The most sensitive strings have been discontinued now or are rather expensive (Genssler/Tempera), so you won’t use them.

You might be interested in the information that I have published in my Dropbox, specially the formulas (needs JavaScript enabled) and the excel file with the unified (recalculated) tension data. You find a link in one of the string stickies. You can enter you scale length and get any string tension in the table recalculated to it.
Also consider downtuned solo strings (which might only be available at 3/4 scales). You can simulate this by downtuning your current strings by a whole tone. You can simulate Weich/Light strings coming from mediums by downtuning a half tone.
That way you might find a tension range you like. BTW, the showed formulas are just for information, they are self-calculating with JavaScript, just don’t forget to press enter to let it calculate.

You can first look at the selection of 1/2 scale strings, but if you cannot find anything that fits your needs, you should seriously consider 3/4 strings.

I had a similar problem at a higher level with my 110 cm 4/4. The action was high because the luthier where I bought the new bass told me the top might lower a bit, so I tried Spirocore 4/4 Medium and had problems after the first set. My fifth high C string (not a good idea on a 4/4 or 7/8) cut into my finger because it was very thin and with a lot of tension. The string cut so deep into the left hand finger flesh that I hardly could get it down onto the fingerboard.
One solution was a much lower tension string or a less dense string that has a larger diameter (but then the other strings need to be changed too).
The bass didn’t respond that well to lower tension strings and the one steel core selection was discontinued soon after I tried the high C. Another easily broke and was discontinued too. Both steel core. The other steel core strings had too much tension for the setup.
So I tried synthetic core metal wound strings (I bow sometimes) and the thicker higher strings and the higher elasticity of the core made it possible to play in thumb position that was almost impossible before. Then a setup change first from me, then from a luthier that I couldn’t handle myself made the bass even more playable and some older strings I disliked before became more playable.

A combination of G and D in gut or textured monofiber synthetics (what dhergert uses) and A and E in synthetic or metal wound synthetic core (silver slaps, EP slaps, downtuned Evah Solos) might be a good combination for you with your current setup.

If you have a luthier not to far away you can ask for some old strings he has to try them and give them back when you are finished.

Best tell us the distances of string and fingerboard at both ends and we can tell you if it is unusually large.

If you haven’t played double bass for a longer time, it might be possible to develop more power in your hands and a thicker skin to handle the beast.
 
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Linda, you've now heard from some of our most experienced folks regarding strings... Excellent advice, depending on your (or anyone else's wondering similar things) situation... And as you can see, it can get pretty complicated.

Having talked with you in person at the recent bluegrass festival, and having seen your bass and your hand situation, I'd still recommend the Eurosonic route, with some additional discussion with Mark at Gollihur in case he sees a better solution for you...

I didn't check, but as @Francois Blais discussed, it would be good to know in advance if your double bass is actually labeled as a 1/2 size; alternatively you could just measure the length of the string from nut to bridge and provide that measurement to Mark. Also as @DoubleMIDI discussed, moving from thin high tension (usually metal) strings to thick low tension gut or synthetic strings may require setup changes -- possibly wider slots in your nut and bridge, more relief in the fingerboard and even possibly higher action.

As is often pointed out, and which you already know from your years of double bass playing, strings are a rabbit hole. It is often helpful to simplify string questions and triage the situation as much as possible, seeking to solve the most important issues. I hope you are successful with that goal :) .
 
Maybe your instrument needs some setup adjustments.
What's the height of the strings at the end of the fingerboard?
At the nut, do you have just enough clearance for a business card between the strings and fingerboard?
What the lenght of the strings between the nut and bridge?

I once had a bass I bought as an half size but with 100cm scale it was more likely a 5/8, so putting strings designed for half scale on a longer scale will elevate the tension.


I have my instrument professionally worked on and set up about twice a year. We live in a very dry climate and there’s a lot of movement depending on the season. My strings measure 39 1/2”, a business card fits underneath the strings, and the height of the strings at the end of the fingerboard is G-.33, E-.54.
Thank you for your questions.
Obligato are medium tension on a 3/4 scale and even lower tension than that on a 1/2 scale.
Corelli strings are medium low to medium tension, but thin and due to the steel core harder to press down than the more stretchy synthetic or gut cores.

Francois advise to visit a luthier for a setup check is a really good advise, but you need to decide first if you want a very low and more stretchy string tension at a higher string action (plain gut, synthetic core) or a medium to a bit higher tension at a very low string action (which both might need work on the fingerboard).
For your kind of music I would rather go the higher action route, but even for that the current action might a bit high.

The problem with a shorter scale instrument is that you need more mass at the vibrating string to get the same tension as on a 3/4 scale. So a 3/4 string on a 1/2 strings scale instrument gives you a lower tension.
In general you can mount 3/4 strings on a 1/2 size instrument. Just have the silk part go through the hole, not the playable wound part. Do a few windings away from the nut slot and then do a quick crossing over the previous windings and the wind on the other side of the peg hole. Avoid contacting the peg box with the string on the peg!

The other thing is that the shorter the scale the thinner the string needs to be to vibrate and sustain well in higher positions. So a string that is easy to press down due to its thickness might get a shorter sustain the shorter the vibrating string length is. Not much of a problem if you stay away from thumb position, but if you want to play up there sometimes or often, a thick string might not be a solution.

It can happen that a wound string that is wound onto the peg breaks the winding (mostly synthetic wound) or cut into the core (metal wound, synthetic or silk core). But that hasn’t ever happened to me (but a few others).
The most sensitive strings have been discontinued now or are rather expensive (Genssler/Tempera), so you won’t use them.

You might be interested in the information that I have published in my Dropbox, specially the formulas (needs JavaScript enabled) and the excel file with the unified (recalculated) tension data. You find a link in one of the string stickies. You can enter you scale length and get any string tension in the table recalculated to it.
Also consider downtuned solo strings (which might only be available at 3/4 scales). You can simulate this by downtuning your current strings by a whole tone. You can simulate Weich/Light strings coming from mediums by downtuning a half tone.
That way you might find a tension range you like. BTW, the showed formulas are just for information, they are self-calculating with JavaScript, just don’t forget to press enter to let it calculate.

You can first look at the selection of 1/2 scale strings, but if you cannot find anything that fits your needs, you should seriously consider 3/4 strings.

I had a similar problem at a higher level with my 110 cm 4/4. The action was high because the luthier where I bought the new bass told me the top might lower a bit, so I tried Spirocore 4/4 Medium and had problems after the first set. My fifth high C string (not a good idea on a 4/4 or 7/8) cut into my finger because it was very thin and with a lot of tension. The string cut so deep into the left hand finger flesh that I hardly could get it down onto the fingerboard.
One solution was a much lower tension string or a less dense string that has a larger diameter (but then the other strings need to be changed too).
The bass didn’t respond that well to lower tension strings and the one steel core selection was discontinued soon after I tried the high C. Another easily broke and was discontinued too. Both steel core. The other steel core strings had too much tension for the setup.
So I tried synthetic core metal wound strings (I bow sometimes) and the thicker higher strings and the higher elasticity of the core made it possible to play in thumb position that was almost impossible before. Then a setup change first from me, then from a luthier that I couldn’t handle myself made the bass even more playable and some older strings I disliked before became more playable.

A combination of G and D in gut or textured monofiber synthetics (what dhergert uses) and A and E in synthetic or metal wound synthetic core (silver slaps, EP slaps, downtuned Evah Solos) might be a good combination for you with your current setup.

If you have a luthier not to far away you can ask for some old strings he has to try them and give them back when you are finished.

Best tell us the distances of string and fingerboard at both ends and we can tell you if it is unusually large.

If you haven’t played double bass for a longer time, it might be possible to develop more power in your hands and a thicker skin to handle the beast.

Thank you for your time and expertise.
Linda, you've now heard from some of our most experienced folks regarding strings... Excellent advice, depending on your (or anyone else's wondering similar things) situation... And as you can see, it can get pretty complicated.

Having talked with you in person at the recent bluegrass festival, and having seen your bass and your hand situation, I'd still recommend the Eurosonic route, with some additional discussion with Mark at Gollihur in case he sees a better solution for you...

I didn't check, but as @Francois Blais discussed, it would be good to know in advance if your double bass is actually labeled as a 1/2 size; alternatively you could just measure the length of the string from nut to bridge and provide that measurement to Mark. Also as @DoubleMIDI discussed, moving from thin high tension (usually metal) strings to thick low tension gut or synthetic strings may require setup changes -- possibly wider slots in your nut and bridge, more relief in the fingerboard and even possibly higher action.

As is often pointed out, and which you already know from your years of double bass playing, strings are a rabbit hole. It is often helpful to simplify string questions and triage the situation as much as possible, seeking to solve the most important issues. I hope you are successful with that goal :) .
Linda, you've now heard from some of our most experienced folks regarding strings... Excellent advice, depending on your (or anyone else's wondering similar things) situation... And as you can see, it can get pretty complicated.

Having talked with you in person at the recent bluegrass festival, and having seen your bass and your hand situation, I'd still recommend the Eurosonic route, with some additional discussion with Mark at Gollihur in case he sees a better solution for you...

I didn't check, but as @Francois Blais discussed, it would be good to know in advance if your double bass is actually labeled as a 1/2 size; alternatively you could just measure the length of the string from nut to bridge and provide that measurement to Mark. Also as @DoubleMIDI discussed, moving from thin high tension (usually metal) strings to thick low tension gut or synthetic strings may require setup changes -- possibly wider slots in your nut and bridge, more relief in the fingerboard and even possibly higher action.

As is often pointed out, and which you already know from your years of double bass playing, strings are a rabbit hole. It is often helpful to simplify string questions and triage the situation as much as possible, seeking to solve the most important issues. I hope you are successful with that goal :) .

The bass is labeled as a 1/2 size and it was made in Romania. Thanks for sharing this sight with me.
 
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39,5 " (about 100 cm) is a pretty long measure for a 1/2 size bass, usually they are just 38", On that measure, all 3/4 size strings should work with just a little less tension. If you don't use the bow, my recommendation would be Eurosonic / Presto light strings, will be about like Presto ultralight on a 3/4 and produce the pizz sound most people like for bluegrass.
 
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Some may call your string scale 5/8, in between 1/2 and 3/4. But usually the body size determines the size of a double bass, not the string scale.

So 4 to 6 cm more to wind onto the peg or to let the string stick out of the peg hole. Not a big deal.

Tension drop is about the same as if you tune a string a half tone lower on a 3/4.
So go with the Silver Slaps.

String action seems to be reasonable, maybe a mm lower would be a bit easier. Consider installing (aluminium) adjusters on your next luthier visit. Should go from 5 to 10 mm on G and 8 to 13 mm on E (all the year, your luthier should know how to set them for climate swings).

If you want lowxtension bowable strings consider Evah Pirazzi Solo in orchestra tuning or EP Slaps (not for classical orchestra but useable for period music).
You can tune down the Obligato by a wholetone to get an impression for the tension of downtuned EP Solos (or Obligato Solos if they exist).