I'm using an HA7000 with a 1-15" cab and a 2-10" cab with a tweeter. both hartke cabs. I've been using the biamp function, but now rethinking that idea. Wondering what others are doing in this situation.If I couid overlap some freq. it would b good, but at the crossover point I select, the lower freq. goes to the fifteen, and the higher goes to the tens, which sounds fine, but the fifteen is missing out on so much more it can do and so are the tens. I think that crossover would b more suitable for just a tweeter array or something like that. Would like to hear from others on this, thank you
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Gearhead17
Supporting Member
Bi-Amping with two small cabinets is not going to get you very far. The 15 does not automatically go lower because of the speaker size. Run a full range signal through both and enjoy that. Your 15, unless it is a fEARful cabinet or similar, is not going to do too well pushing out gobs of low end. It was designed for a full range signal and not to be a subwoofer. The 210 is most likely designed to be a full-range cabinet. Mixing the same brand 210 and 15 together typically works well together - let your ears decide on that one though.
What brand cabinets do you have? Hartke?
What brand cabinets do you have? Hartke?
I've been biamping for a few years using Peavey gear.
It was always close, but not quite punchy enough.
Then I tried sending full-range to my top 410, and that was the answer for me.
Doesn't look like you have that option.
It was always close, but not quite punchy enough.
Then I tried sending full-range to my top 410, and that was the answer for me.
Doesn't look like you have that option.
kieth, I don't understand, full range to the top, whats going to the bottom? And yes head, hartke. So, I played out tonight and didn't biamp, I thing it was good. Also, Ive been getting a lot of string noise lately, like finger sliding noise, so I changed my settings and turned off the EQ and I got rid of the noise
Gearhead17 pretty much nailed it for me based on my experience. If you have two full range cabs, I have always had better results sending them both full range signals. On the couple of occasions I tried to split my signal (lows to a 115 and highs to a 210...both full range cabs) I found myself pushing the 115 too hard to get all the bass I wanted and under-utilizing the potential I had in the 210.
I think the bi-amp deal worked best back in the day when people used a 118 for lows and something else up top for the mids and highs. However, even in that case a full range signal to the 118 would have probably been fine as it would have been naturally rolled off on the higher frequencies, essentially ignoring them.
I think the bi-amp deal worked best back in the day when people used a 118 for lows and something else up top for the mids and highs. However, even in that case a full range signal to the 118 would have probably been fine as it would have been naturally rolled off on the higher frequencies, essentially ignoring them.
I had a Peavey crossover, 100hz (maybe 150hz??) back in the 90's. I had a MM HD150 head, Peavey 4x10 cab, and a (Gibson) LabSeries 1x15. Sounded very good, but eventually it was not worth the hassle. By the end of the 90's I was down to a single cab, either 4x10 or 1x15.
The finger noise? With drums, no one (not even you) will be able to hear the finger noise.
The finger noise? With drums, no one (not even you) will be able to hear the finger noise.
I have biamped my HA7000 since the 80's, when it was still cool to do so. Nowadays, common thinking is that it is not cool to do so, but even less cool to mix cabinets in a full range setup. A quick search of "mixing cabinets" will reveal the militant disdain for things like phase cancellation, and such.
Biamping is best done if you have a handle on the crossover controls. Personally, I like sending my low lows to the 15, and my highs to the 4X10, but you want to keep the highs out of the lows, and the lows out of the highs, so no extreme outer ranges of the crossover. Also, I blend 2 to 3 times more power to the lows, than the highs.
Biamping is best done if you have a handle on the crossover controls. Personally, I like sending my low lows to the 15, and my highs to the 4X10, but you want to keep the highs out of the lows, and the lows out of the highs, so no extreme outer ranges of the crossover. Also, I blend 2 to 3 times more power to the lows, than the highs.
Something like this wouldn't be a universal "rule of thumb" though and I'm kind of surprised to hear that it works well for you. If I were to take the GK Neo series of cabs for instance, the 115 is much more mid focused than the 410 which is very bottom heavy.
