I have never used a tapered reamer before. I have one to use on the end pin hole. How is that done?
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Double Bass Hole for End Pin
- Thread starter Ned Smith
- Start date
If the reamer is like the one I've used, it is not also an awl, so you have to make a standard hole for the reamer to work through. So you need something to make that hole too.
Reamers for double bass have a specific angle which is pretty standard for endpin plugs to fit into.
The specs for these reamers are:
Taper 1/17, diameter 23.0/36.0 mm, length 221 mm.
The reamer I used came from International Violin LTD. These are not inexpensive, but it is an impressively nice hand tool.
Notes on how to use:
Produce your hole first of course, straight in, large enough diameter and deeply enough for the reamer to fit through the whole way. Have the endpin plug you want to use handy so you know how deeply to ream -- the deeper you ream with the endpin reamer, the larger the diameter of the hole will be, and you don't want it to get too big and sloppy for your endpin plug...
The reamer is a hand tool, so turn it inside the hole, being careful to keep it going in straight -- the angle of this hole will be the same angle that the endpin will eventually inherit.
Size the endpin plug frequently as turning the reamer. You want the endpin plug to be tight enough to stay in place under tension of the tailpiece, but not so tight that it causes cracks or other damage to the end block. And if at all possible, you don't want to want to use use any adhesive to hold the endpin plug in.
Going too far with the reamer is not an end-of-life situation for the end block, but it is not preferred. A sloppy endpin plug fitting can be wrapped or even laminated to make it tighter.
I have seen some straight endpin plugs available on the market, but I have no experience with installing them. I'm guessing they do not require an angled hole, hence no specialized reamer is required. How well they work for a double bass is something I cannot address. I would be at least a little concerned about the larger amount of wood being removed from the end block in order to install straight endpin plugs.
Reamers for double bass have a specific angle which is pretty standard for endpin plugs to fit into.
The specs for these reamers are:
Taper 1/17, diameter 23.0/36.0 mm, length 221 mm.
The reamer I used came from International Violin LTD. These are not inexpensive, but it is an impressively nice hand tool.
Notes on how to use:
Produce your hole first of course, straight in, large enough diameter and deeply enough for the reamer to fit through the whole way. Have the endpin plug you want to use handy so you know how deeply to ream -- the deeper you ream with the endpin reamer, the larger the diameter of the hole will be, and you don't want it to get too big and sloppy for your endpin plug...
The reamer is a hand tool, so turn it inside the hole, being careful to keep it going in straight -- the angle of this hole will be the same angle that the endpin will eventually inherit.
Size the endpin plug frequently as turning the reamer. You want the endpin plug to be tight enough to stay in place under tension of the tailpiece, but not so tight that it causes cracks or other damage to the end block. And if at all possible, you don't want to want to use use any adhesive to hold the endpin plug in.
Going too far with the reamer is not an end-of-life situation for the end block, but it is not preferred. A sloppy endpin plug fitting can be wrapped or even laminated to make it tighter.
I have seen some straight endpin plugs available on the market, but I have no experience with installing them. I'm guessing they do not require an angled hole, hence no specialized reamer is required. How well they work for a double bass is something I cannot address. I would be at least a little concerned about the larger amount of wood being removed from the end block in order to install straight endpin plugs.
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Matthew Tucker
Commercial User
- Aug 21, 2002
- 2,685
- 380
- 6,011
- Disclosures
- Owner: Bresque Basses, Sydney Basses and Cellos
if you're only making one bass it's not worth buying a tapered reamer, They are very expensive, And only do one job. You can buy endpins with a straight plug from saddle rider music, They are not cheap but they are worth it. Just do a straight hole, 25mm i think but check.
Otherwise this is the best time to go and make friends with your closest luthier and borrow their Endpin reamer.
Otherwise this is the best time to go and make friends with your closest luthier and borrow their Endpin reamer.
The tapered reamers are pricey. Most of the time, the strongest justification to get one is if you're going to be doing multiple tapered endpin holes and want to do them properly.
I bought one because I wouldn't do the endpin job on my Alcoa unless i had the right tools, and I really needed to do the job soon because the old endpin plug, which was glued in, was in danger of breaking. And due to the uniqueness of my DB I couldn't ask a local luthier to do the job. I felt then, and still feel now, that the expense was worth it. But this was an unusual case.
I do still have questions about drilling so much end block wood away for a straight endpin plug. Also the theoretical physics of a tapered endpin plug hole for the amount of leverage that an extended endpin delivers to the end block also seems more reasonable. But I have no real experience to back up those theories.
Amazon has both straight or tapered endpin plug / endpin assemblies at affordable prices. (Edit: FWIW, I'm seeing straight endpin plugs with a 28.49mm diameter. Tapered endpin plugs typically start at ~23mm diameter.)
I bought one because I wouldn't do the endpin job on my Alcoa unless i had the right tools, and I really needed to do the job soon because the old endpin plug, which was glued in, was in danger of breaking. And due to the uniqueness of my DB I couldn't ask a local luthier to do the job. I felt then, and still feel now, that the expense was worth it. But this was an unusual case.
I do still have questions about drilling so much end block wood away for a straight endpin plug. Also the theoretical physics of a tapered endpin plug hole for the amount of leverage that an extended endpin delivers to the end block also seems more reasonable. But I have no real experience to back up those theories.
Amazon has both straight or tapered endpin plug / endpin assemblies at affordable prices. (Edit: FWIW, I'm seeing straight endpin plugs with a 28.49mm diameter. Tapered endpin plugs typically start at ~23mm diameter.)
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Matthew Tucker
Commercial User
- Aug 21, 2002
- 2,685
- 380
- 6,011
- Disclosures
- Owner: Bresque Basses, Sydney Basses and Cellos
I think that's a typo, but it could mislead badly. The pilot hole needs to be a bit larger - but only a bit - than the small end of the reamer. If you make the hole big enough to pass the reamer through it, there won't be anything to ream.
Any tips on reamer technique to ensure that the EP shoulders seat squarely would be appreciated. I could be wrong here, but if the pilot hole is not perfectly square, then the reaming process can adjust as it goes in -- yes?
If it's a tapered hole, you don't WANT the shoulders to seat - you'll have just defeated the whole purpose of using a tapered hole/end pin plug.
To get it square, I'd first make sure the pilot hole's square. I'd probably fixture the bass lying horizontally on the workbench, shim under it till the face of the rib where the hole's going to be is vertical (use a level); then I'd put a guide for visual alignment that's flat and level - this keeps the drill vertically aligned. For side to side I'd probably sight between the center of the scroll and the center of the saddle, then scribe a line on the top of the workbench. Now when you drill, you keep the drill aligned both vertically and horizontally to your guides.
You'd also want to start with small drills and work your way up, that way you can correct minor misalignments as you go. I'd consider using the extra long electrician's bits for the smaller diameters, because you can then un-chuck the bit and visually check the hole against your guides.
But I reiterate, for a tapered joint with shoulders, the taper only works if the shoulders are NOT against the face.
I'm sure real luthiers have better ways to get that hole square, but the above is what I would come up with in the absence of guidance from anyone who's done the work.
Good point. Linguistics...
As said above^^^
For clarity, the reamer I used is 23mm diameter at the narrow end. The pilot hole diameter should be only large enough to accommodate that narrow end. Once the reamer's narrow end is in the pilot hole, the reamer does the rest of the work.
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I've seen some EP (and peg) reamers that are asymmetrical in terms of their cutting edges. I assume this is to provide the ability to "English" tweak the angle(s) as one proceeds with the cut?
Hi,
I solved the problem by turning a furniture wooden foot conical, then glued sandpaper strips and used it as a reamer. It tooks some more time, but the result its OK
I solved the problem by turning a furniture wooden foot conical, then glued sandpaper strips and used it as a reamer. It tooks some more time, but the result its OK
Yes -- @james condino has spoken of doing the same thing at times. He also has mentioned "adjusting" the diameter of the endpin plug itself on a lathe to better accommodate an existing "vintage" end block hole.
Only problem for me is I'd also need a lathe and the expertise to use it to make the exactly correct taper.
The reamer I used is asymmetrical by design as you have described. The blades run the length of the reamer on one side, while the other side is round to the taper. This is to help keep the reamer honest to the pitch of the pilot hole and of the expanding tapered hole as the reamer is turned.
(Worth mentioning, the blades are extremely sharp.)
As described earlier, it's a very impressively designed hand tool.
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I did that exact same thing for a lot of endpin holes before I got a couple of reamers. A+ for creative problem solving. As Don mentioned, since I have a nice lathe (massive!), I also like to turn down the endpin rather than taking wood from the bass body, but it sometimes requires more finesse.
Practicing on a few holes drilled into a 2x4 will help the learning curve.
Phase two of my endpin hole problem solving was finding a local violin builder who happened to have to correct size reamer and figuring out what type of beer they liked.
In the local climate where I live, a tapered endpin is the best solution for a good year long fit. The humidity and temperatures vary so much that a straight taper winds up being rather loose for about half the years.
I understand the nature of expensive tools, so for the occasional hobbyist who needs a tapered hole, I usually pass on the good vibes and let then use mine. It would take an incredible amount of abuse to mess up one of these giant reamers.
Greg Clinkingbeard
Commercial User
I have accumulated several reamers and they are wonderful tools to have. Try reaming out a Kay to convert it to a modern endpin and you will find that it usually takes three sizes. I’m grateful for the advice given by a friendly luthier who recommended a particular Chinese reamer which I bought on EBay for about $100 because it gets the most use.