How "excited noobie" is this idea?

D

DragonCurse

Aug 8, 2024
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#1
Hey guys,

My luthier wants to build me a bass. But.. my bass was the first one he worked on(for basses). Before me he mostly worked guitars, now he does both and I'm happy with his work (and happy to contribute to his growth).

I am coming up with ideas for my first custom built bass since I'm aware I have a unique opportunity to have this guy go all out. Or not... and I'm wondering from your seasoned perspective if we should go... something deep from the start or if he should ease into it. And yes, I laughed at how cringey my idea list is... but what would life be with no fun? Right?

Here's the idea -

5-string

Leo Quan Badass V bridge gold

3l2r gotoh gold

PJ style - Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounders

36" scale

.145 - .105 - .085 - .060 - .045

G0 - D0 - G1 - C2 - F2



Would be cool's:

Blue luminlays

Dragon inlay on the fretboard

Multiscale?? Have to change bridge and string gauges

Should I push him to try or should we start with something more standardized? We will absolutely be outsourcing the inlays and hardware but I believe he wants to design the body and headstock and neck himself. Personally I'm not experienced enough to know if I want a neck through.. but I wouldn't mind one. I know it would be a challenge for him, but I also wanna push him cuz I believe in him.

Any advice? Thank you guys, cheers
 
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#3
J Wilson said:
How 'noobie' are you?
Click to expand...
I've been playing for a couple decades. He'd be the one doing this and it would definitely be his first custom neck/body/headboard. He's done work with guitar repair. I do trust he'd be into the project. I'm just wondering how much calculating extra we would need to go for a 36" scale, or if we should piggy back on an available 34" or 35". Id only prefer the 36" cuz it seems good for the GDGCF tuning. Also considering a multiscale(theoretically I'm guessing that 36-34 would be good but idk about these or what the difference is in length) but I've never played one...
 
#4
It's certainly up to you, but for me, I'd never sign up to be anybody's first anything. I want somebody that's on his several hundredth.

One-offs are very easy to run off the track and price quotes: You're asking him to fabricate something he's never done before.

It's real easy to wind up with something that you didn't think the neck would be like that, it's heavier than you thought, the color didn't turn out right, etc., and this ain't Guitar Center or Sweetwater where you can just send it back for another one. And there are plenty of world-class guitar repair techs that aren't builders, and lots of builders who don't do repairs.

You're in the talking stage of a FIVE string bass with FOUR string pickups: You could do that, but it's certainly going to trap you into a relatively narrow string spacing for a five. What other choices might not be best?

IF you're not willing to stay very involved (and he's willing to allow that), and are prepared for it to cost more than you've been quoted, and understand it will take longer than both of you thought it would, I'd consider something else. Or find a builder with a long, steady, proven track record that makes something similar to what you have in mind.

Custom instruments are brutally easy to slide right into the 'Really Didn't Turn Out Like I Thought It Would' file, unless you stay involved and are flexible. Most won't and aren't. TalkBass has many old threads with Custom Bass Tales of Woe. You don't want to be the next one.
 
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#5
@J Wilson Good advice but I want this dude to shine. If this is gonna be as challenging as any guitar then I think he should go for it. I can afford to "redo" on the body and neck and head, it's all good!

I really appreciate everything you wrote here, this is some good wisdom.
 
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#7
Does "worked on guitars" mean fixed them or built them. I'm just a hobbyist, but to me, "fit and finish" is the missing puzzle piece. Ask him to show you any stringed instrument that he built from start to finish. If you want a painted bass, how are his paint skills? If you want a burst, what do you think of the bursts that he is done? The last few percent are the hardest, to me at least.
 
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#8
I'd avoid a neck through... as others have said you're taking a chance on him, which is fine if you see it as a collaborative project, and the cost is something you can take a chance on.

However with a neck through there are no do-overs. With a bolt on, you're essentially building two parts and putting them together. If there's a problem with the neck he can make another one, or shim/adjust as necessary. With neck through, if something goes wrong you're starting from scratch (and potentially wasting a lot of nice wood).

If its his first bass build don't make it harder than it needs to be.
 
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#10
(to me) the most important things to talk about with a luthier concerning the build of a custom bass would be:

-Neck shape:
Nut width and spacing at the bridge make the angle of the fretboard. Radius, thickness and shape of the neck itself are factors that are make or break.
I also learned from working with a luthier on a one off custom that there can be a gap between what you think you want and what you actually want.

-Body shape:
The shape of the rest of the instrument apart from the neck determines weight, balance, how it sits on your lap and how it dangles from the strap, how comfortable it feels after a couple of hours of playing it and how well it's balanced.

Will you be copying something that is already out there or will you be designing your own?
If the latter, how will you determine if it's balanced and what the total weight will be?
 
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#13
Is this luthier family? What stands out to me is the altruistic quality, "happy to contribute to his growth." If you can enter into this agreement expecting NOTHING in return, and you can afford to receive nothing in return, then okay. ...like loaning a friend money... don't do it unless it can be considered a gift. And keep the design simple and straight ahead. If you want a great bass that plays well and has value, look to the markets.
 
#14
I agree with avoiding the "neck-thru" for all the same reasons as mentioned. I also agree with avoiding a "multiscale" since basses are somewhat new to him. Also, skip the lights. If he's building the neck you have an nice opportunity to pick a fretboard. My personal favorite is "solid black" ebony. It matches well.
I believe the KISS method is best (keep it simple, stupid) and it's one I use some.
(1) If you have a bass that you really love the neck, let him get dimensions from it so you know you're getting something that you'll be comfortable with.
(2) If a lighter bass is wanted go with an alder body and a "figured" wood top so he has an opportunity to show off his finishing skills.
(3) Since you have the opportunity I'd go with "strings through the body". This might affect you bridge selection but there are lot of them that will work.

Please keep us updated on this.
 
#15
I would drop the Fanned Fret feature and the Dragon Inlay. Those are the two things that require more advanced level skills and experience.

All of the other design specs are reasonable things for him to try in his first full scratch built bass. You'll find many threads here on Luthier's Corner where folks have successfully built basses like that. Sometimes as their first project.

Invite him to join us here. He can document the progress of your project, and we'll help him with advice on problems and processes. That's what we do here.
 
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#17
bylar13 said:
I would have him build a 3 color sunburst P-Bass with a tort guard and flat wounds.

That way you will get the most positive response on TB. :laugh:
Click to expand...

Maybe on the rest of TB.........

Here on Luthier's Corner, we encourage people to build crazy radical, non-Fender-like basses. We're trying to advance the state of the art. Being rejected by the masses is a badge of honor which we are proud to wear. We're designing and building our basses for us, not for them.
 
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#18
Th biggest challenge with your proposed build has nothing to do with the bass. There isn't a speaker on the planet that will do justice to a string tuned to G0 - at least not one you can fit in a car. Many bass guitar cabs won't even reproduce the first harmonic (octave) of that note well.
 
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#19
I always worry a little that these custom builds will become another "Beware Builder X" tale of woe that pop up on TB, sometimes festering for years. It doesn't sound like any of your specs are beyond the capabilities of a competent Luthier, but "competence" and "mastery" are two very different things. Having built (4) basses I feel like I know just enough to get in seriously over my head, which is fine when the client is Me, but I am nowhere near ready for a comissioned build. This guy has built Zero basses. As long as BOTH of you have clear(and flexible) expectations, could work out fine, but go into it with both eyes wide open, and remember it's a business transaction, not a handshake deal between friends.
 
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