How to carve truss rod adjustment channel into bass body?

[johnthegod]

Recently came upon a nice fender mim p bass replacement body for a new bass build project. However, i just realized theres no truss rod adjustment channel routed in the neck pocket for my usa fender neck that id like to use. Im not really interested in taking it off every time i need to adjust the truss rod.

my plan was to use a round file to remove some wood, and sand/paint the small exposed area to match the body (close enough). Based on my usa pickguard notch and the width of the exposed truss rod end on my neck, im guessing ~0.5 inches is the diameter i need. Problem is i cant find any round wood files that thick. Is there another easy solution? I suppose i could use any shape file, but i still want it to look somewhat professional, even with the pickguard hiding most of whats visible.

 

[JEDI BASS]

I've used a dremel with a sanding bit many times.

 

[Dadum]

I don’t know the specifics of your neck, but 0.5” seems big. Is the truss rod adjustment made with a hex wrench? Can you use a ball-end hex wrench to turn it at an angle, and then maybe remove less wood?

 

[Bruce Johnson]

The quickest and neatest way to make one of those truss rod clearance notches is with a router and a template. But I'm assuming that you don't have that.

To cut and shape the notch by hand, you can use a Dremel tool with a cutting bit, a woodworking gouge (a small curved chisel) or the end of a round file. It doesn't matter what diameter the file is. Use these tools to cut away most of the wood and get it roughly to shape. Then smooth and refine the notch with a small piece of 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a wooden dowel or some other round firm object of about the right size. The coarse paper on a firm block acts like a big file. Then, when the shape looks good, sand out the scratches with 220 paper.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Bruce covered it. The only thing I’d add is that if you’re using a router look for a core box or another round bottom bit. It will leave a nice rounded bottom on the notch that looks better to my eye in that situation.

 

[Jazzdogg]

Recently came upon a nice fender mim p bass replacement body for a new bass build project. However, i just realized theres no truss rod adjustment channel routed in the neck pocket for my usa fender neck that id like to use. Im not really interested in taking it off every time i need to adjust the truss rod.

my plan was to use a round file to remove some wood, and sand/paint the small exposed area to match the body (close enough). Based on my usa pickguard notch and the width of the exposed truss rod end on my neck, im guessing ~0.5 inches is the diameter i need. Problem is i cant find any round wood files that thick. Is there another easy solution? I suppose i could use any shape file, but i still want it to look somewhat professional, even with the pickguard hiding most of whats visible.

When I modified my P-bass, I used carving gouges. Worked great.

 

[Zooberwerx]

I've used a dremel with a sanding bit many times.

I’ve used the Dremel drum sander, as well.

Riis

 

[rudy4444]

You can do a nice pocket with a router fitted with a core box bit, as others have related. Here's a quick photo to demonstrate the method.

 

[Bikeguy57]

I just freehand them with a router, and use flat black Testor's model paint.

 

[Bikeguy57]

With the correct "cabinet" narrow shouldered screwdriver and a notched pickguard, many times you can get by without loosening the neck.

 

[fhm555]

I just freehand them with a router, and use flat black Testor's model paint.

While I’ve never carved a truss rod notch, before I started relocating control plates to better match the guard curve, I’ve used Testor’s flat black behind the gap between a control plate and a pick guard on a bright red bass.

 

[micguy]

A router and a template are the fast way to do it, and do it accurately. For a simple route like this, the template can be made to use the edge of the router base as the controlling surfaces, which makes making the template pretty easy. I've done a few of these, and the first one took an hour or so (making the template), after that, it's a few minutes.

 

[birminghambass]

I've done it by hand many times. No router or template necessary if you don't have one.

Recently came upon a nice fender mim p bass replacement body for a new bass build project. However, i just realized theres no truss rod adjustment channel routed in the neck pocket for my usa fender neck that id like to use. Im not really interested in taking it off every time i need to adjust the truss rod.

my plan was to use a round file to remove some wood, and sand/paint the small exposed area to match the body (close enough). Based on my usa pickguard notch and the width of the exposed truss rod end on my neck, im guessing ~0.5 inches is the diameter i need. Problem is i cant find any round wood files that thick. Is there another easy solution? I suppose i could use any shape file, but i still want it to look somewhat professional, even with the pickguard hiding most of whats visible.

I've used a drill bit and sandpaper. End result looks just like my American Fender with the factory route. It was a black bass though, so easy to paint after removing wood.

 

[johnthegod]

I've done it by hand many times. No router or template necessary if you don't have one.

I've used a drill bit and sandpaper. End result looks just like my American Fender with the factory route. It was a black bass though, so easy to paint after removing wood.

Its looking like this is my most feasible option cuz i dont want to have to buy a router (yet). This will prob give me the best control-to-least-headache ratio. What grit of sand paper would you suggest i use?

 

[Joshua]

Moderator insert: I deleted an off topic conversation and invite those participants to start that discussion in the correct forum: Setup & Repair.

 

[logdrum]

I free handed the last time I assembled a parts bass. I had the right router bit. Sharpie to darken the wood

 

[rudy4444]

You can do a nice pocket with a router fitted with a core box bit, as others have related. Here's a quick photo to demonstrate the method.

See that other large cutout in the template? I'm using a cove bit with a bearing to make the pocket, but if you don't have the cove bit with bearing then just use the other part of the template which guides the router base.

Doing a pocket using a router freehand is tempting the fickle finger of fate. Nothing wrong with using a more remedial method to create the pocket, but it will look exactly like the effort you put into it.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Also:

It's important to seal up the bare wood in the notch after you've finished shaping and smoothing it. Brush in some black paint, some clear poly, some shellac, whatever. Something to seal up the wood and keep moisture from seeping in. That's how bodies develop cracks.

Coloring it with a Sharpie doesn't qualify as sealing it up. Brush in some shellac or hobby store enamel or even nail polish. You can even smear it with Elmer's Glue. Then go at it with the Sharpie if you want that look.

 

[BAG]

Also:

It's important to seal up the bare wood in the notch after you've finished shaping and smoothing it. Brush in some black paint, some clear poly, some shellac, whatever. Something to seal up the wood and keep moisture from seeping in. That's how bodies develop cracks.

Coloring it with a Sharpie doesn't qualify as sealing it up. Brush in some shellac or hobby store enamel or even nail polish. You can even smear it with Elmer's Glue. Then go at it with the Sharpie if you want that look.

..... BAG goes home to seal the wood on the dodgy truss rod access he did a couple of years ago with a rounded Dremel file in a cordless drill and finished with a black sharpie......

 

[johnthegod]

Also:

It's important to seal up the bare wood in the notch after you've finished shaping and smoothing it. Brush in some black paint, some clear poly, some shellac, whatever. Something to seal up the wood and keep moisture from seeping in. That's how bodies develop cracks.

Coloring it with a Sharpie doesn't qualify as sealing it up. Brush in some shellac or hobby store enamel or even nail polish. You can even smear it with Elmer's Glue. Then go at it with the Sharpie if you want that look.

Thanks for the heads up about that. Im gonna hit it with a white paint marker first, then I wanna use some clear coat if i still have any left over. If not, ill use clear nail polish.