How to string round core flats?

[Hammerfield]

Hello, first of all, sorry for my english, I speak it in a very basic form.
A couple of months I bought some flatwounds (Pyramid, Thomastik and Optima RB). These are round core, so my doubt is how to string them?
I recently string a Sunbeams set, and in the packaging it said that the round core needs and "edge" to grip it, in order to do so, i needed to "crimp" the string.
This same principle is applicable to the round core flats listed?
Thanks, and stay safe.

 

[iiipopes]

Yes. I do that by cutting the string to length, long enough to get the proper number of turns around the tuning post, stick the end of the string into the hole in the tuning post as far as it will go, bending it 90 degrees at the edge of the slot to start it around the tuning post, and winding the string evenly down the tuning post to the bottom, without kinks or overlaps.

 

[Hammerfield]

Yes. I do that by cutting the string to length, long enough to get the proper number of turns around the tuning post, stick the end of the string into the hole in the tuning post as far as it will go, bending it 90 degrees at the edge of the slot to start it around the tuning post, and winding the string evenly down the tuning post to the bottom, without kinks or overlaps.

Thanks man! Thats the way I do it with "regular" strings, i wasn't sure if it was valid for round cores, and I didnt want to ruin perfectly good sets of flats triyng to find out!

 

[iiipopes]

Thanks man! Thats the way I do it with "regular" strings, i wasn't sure if it was valid for round cores, and I didnt want to ruin perfectly good sets of flats triyng to find out!

That's what I did with my Fodera round core round wounds:

 

[Vinny_G]

Yes. I do that by cutting the string to length, long enough to get the proper number of turns around the tuning post, stick the end of the string into the hole in the tuning post as far as it will go, bending it 90 degrees at the edge of the slot to start it around the tuning post, and winding the string evenly down the tuning post to the bottom, without kinks or overlaps.

I may be wrong, but it seems to me that it's better to bend the string before cutting it, to prevent it from unwinding.

 

[HaphAsSard]

I may be wrong, but it seems to me that it's better to bend the string before cutting it, to prevent it from unwinding.

I have no hard evidence to back it up, but this is what I've read too, and this is what I'd do.

 

[iiipopes]

Either way, make sure the bend is at the correct depth of tuning post so the string doesn't get a double kink.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Bend, then cut. I do this for any string.

 

[Hammerfield]

Thanks, im gonna string my lakie with the TI's.

 

[Killed_by_Death]

To get the 90 degree bend at the right spot, just stick the string down the center of the capstan first, now measure how deep it went.
Measure that distance from where you bent it to where you cut it, Voila!

flats will slip easier, meaning the core could slide under the outerwrap, which is why you bend BEFORE cutting

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Thanks, im gonna string my lakie with the TI's.

If this is your first go around with TI’s, resist the urge to pass judgement on them too quickly. Just wait, play them for a couple weeks, then report back.

 

[Hammerfield]

Mission accomplished! Thanks for the help!

If this is your first go around with TI’s, resist the urge to pass judgement on them too quickly. Just wait, play them for a couple weeks, then report back.

It's My first set, it's a shame that because all this covid situation I can't try them in a band context. So far I like them, I have P with LaBella 1954, so i wanted a bass with a different flavour and feels of Flats

 

[Coolhandjjl]

I’ve a set on my Epi Jack Casady.

 

[Petethebassman]

I use Pyramid Gold flats on my main P-Bass and I don't cut the strings at all. The silked portion is fairly thin and pliable so it's easy to wind all of it on the tuner post neatly.

 

[micguy]

Bend then cut. The order (as said before) is important. If you cut before bending, it may be over with before you get a chance to bend the string - it can unwind pretty much instantly when you cut it, then you have a dead string....forever.

 

[Hammerfield]

I’ve a set on my Epi Jack Casady.

That must be a luxury combination, always wanted to try that Epi.
So far I am digging the low tensión, thats something, because I love the bridge cable tensión of the labellas original.

 

[Element Zero]

I use Pyramid Gold flats on my main P-Bass and I don't cut the strings at all. The silked portion is fairly thin and pliable so it's easy to wind all of it on the tuner post neatly. View attachment 3784783

Ah. Wind discipline on point. This makes my ocd stay at bay and I thank you for that.

 

[jmlee]

These instructions come with Ernie Ball cobalt flatwounds. I’ve used this method with those strings and, odd as it looks, those windings aren’t going anywhere.

 

[drumvsbass]

String changing voodoo.

Every now and then over 33 years of playing bass I'd get a dud string right out of the pack. Seemed like no rhyme or reason to it. Some people will say it has to do with clipping the string and the core wire slipping, but earlier in my days I never used to clip the strings, four big full winds of string around a big fender post (I know) and still every now and then an E or an A would just be a dead thuddy clunk. Different brands too, although 3 packs in a row during a particular year in the 90's is what precipitated my change to D'addario from Rotos. These days I mainly use TI, but still D'addario on my Zon fretted, and now I clip the string so that I only have maybe 2 wraps on the post at most,

!!!but!!!! (and here comes the voodoo)

For the last 5 or so years I've gotten into not seating the ball end of the string at the bridge until the very last couple of turns on the peg to get it to pitch. So the ball end and the string, as the string is loose on the bass, are able to freely twist and turn until the last couple of turns on the peg. The idea being that if the ball is seated and the string is at all being twisted while it's being tuned up could cause the core wire to slip loose inside the string wrap causing a dead string etc. The idea came from a trick a luthier showed me as a dead string fix if there is a core wire slip, take a pair of pliers and twist the ball end at pitch and sometimes it will miraculously bring the string back to life (wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it.)

I'm sure this sounds like snake oil, but since doing it this way I haven't experienced a dead string out of pack, and I think I get a bit more life out of my strings on the overall. That isn't the end of my string change voodoo, but all that I can speak of in a public forum that has any actual real world application.

 

[Hammerfield]

String changing voodoo.

Every now and then over 33 years of playing bass I'd get a dud string right out of the pack. Seemed like no rhyme or reason to it. Some people will say it has to do with clipping the string and the core wire slipping, but earlier in my days I never used to clip the strings, four big full winds of string around a big fender post (I know) and still every now and then an E or an A would just be a dead thuddy clunk. Different brands too, although 3 packs in a row during a particular year in the 90's is what precipitated my change to D'addario from Rotos. These days I mainly use TI, but still D'addario on my Zon fretted, and now I clip the string so that I only have maybe 2 wraps on the post at most,

!!!but!!!! (and here comes the voodoo)

For the last 5 or so years I've gotten into not seating the ball end of the string at the bridge until the very last couple of turns on the peg to get it to pitch. So the ball end and the string, as the string is loose on the bass, are able to freely twist and turn until the last couple of turns on the peg. The idea being that if the ball is seated and the string is at all being twisted while it's being tuned up could cause the core wire to slip loose inside the string wrap causing a dead string etc. The idea came from a trick a luthier showed me as a dead string fix if there is a core wire slip, take a pair of pliers and twist the ball end at pitch and sometimes it will miraculously bring the string back to life (wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it.)

I'm sure this sounds like snake oil, but since doing it this way I haven't experienced a dead string out of pack, and I think I get a bit more life out of my strings on the overall. That isn't the end of my string change voodoo, but all that I can speak of in a public forum that has any actual real world application.

Thanks, thats a really interesting tip, I never heard it before!