inlay logo help needed

thebassbuilder

thebassbuilder

Mar 7, 2012
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Spartanburg SC
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guitar builder, Meyers Guitars
#1
I am about finished with this most recent build I am doing for someone. I want to try and do a MOP inlay for my logo. The way I have my logo is, I drill a 3/4" hole about an 1/8" in the headstock. From there I would take black construction paper add the a decal of my "M" I use then epoxy over it. I like this and it works for the most part but the epoxy is too cloudy for my liking. So I want to do something similar but use MOP to do this with. I was thinking of cutting the "M" out and inlaying it in black epoxy sand smooth and there you go. My only concern is the cutting out of the M. I have never cut this stuff before and not sure I am that comfortable in doing so at this point. I know how they do it but don't want it to look sub par. So I had this thought but let me know if you think the end result will be a good one. Cut the MOP out as close to the size circle I need, glue it in with black epoxy and then put the M decal on the MOP and paint it black over all the inlay area and then remove the decal so the MOP shows through. Let me know if this would be a good idea and not a cheap way to do things. This bass is no joke and I want the buyer to be happy with this part just like the rest of it.
 
#2
The only useful advice I can offer is that it's probably a good idea to test your options (spend a day making logos on scrap) before picking one and applying it to the instrument in question. You might also want to try a different epoxy if the one you are using is "not clear enough" - there are epoxies that try to meet a high standard for being clear.
 
#3
Do you have a jewlers saw?
(Not a coping saw but a real jewlers saw & blades so fine you can hardly see the teeth with the naked eye )
Just asking. (and pardon the attempt at inspiring pep talk)....
If you think a procedure is going come out bad because it seems difficult, you are setting yourself up for failure by not even trying.
If you approach it with the mindset that "failure is not an option"... & go for it...you might surprise yourself.
You said you know how traditional inlay is done so I will refrain from speaking to that.

Do I think the masking w/decal & paint is a good idea? Honestly...not particularly.
I guess it would depend on the kind of paint & if you could get an opaque enough coat on the surrounding area AND, get it to break clean enough at the edge when you remove the decal.
Any little tear, chip, bleed...etc... will be a "telltale" flaw that (IMO) would make it obvious what was going on there.

Then again... what do I know about (colored) paint...nothing, I don't like it.
Are you going to be clear coating over this whole thing when you are done?
You might get away with it....IDK
At least that is something you can try out OFF of the instrument & see how YOU like it ;)

Back to your original method....if the cloudy epoxy is your only drawback?.... try filling the void with CA glue instead. Build it up in layers, not all at once.
It will sand easily and can be polished up to a crystal clear gloss.
 
#4
Inlaying into black is quite easy. You can spend as long as you like getting the "M" perfect, before committing. Create it on your computer (or find a font you like) print it, stick it to the MOP, then cut and file.

The other option you mention is also used by many companies including Gibson. Basically using a stencil/masking off areas you don't want black. If you did this you'd need a clear coat like lacquer to fill in the letter. You'll find this option a bit more tricky too.

I'd go for option one, it's easier than youd think for something as simple as an M.

Side point, lots of bass makers already use an M as their logo. You might want to come up with something more unique.
 
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#5
if you know how to do traditional inlay, why not have an inlay laser cut for you?

another option would be to have a logo cut from thin inlay material so you can secure it to the headstock and spray over it like a decal until you have enough buildup to level the top surface
 
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#6
Thanks everyone. I do not have any jewelers tools to work with. I still need to buy a coping saw for this. I will give the decal spray over a test run to see what it looks like. I have a font I like and will try a test on a scrap of something just to see if I can learn the saw and the way to make it go where I want in a controlled way. As for the M being used by others this I do not worry with as mine looks different enough for me and don't feel it necessary to change my logo cause others may have something similar. Thanks again everyone.
 
#7
Rodent said:
if you know how to do traditional inlay, why not have an inlay laser cut for you?

another option would be to have a logo cut from thin inlay material so you can secure it to the headstock and spray over it like a decal until you have enough buildup to level the top surface
Click to expand...
I do not know anyone I can go to for having the logo laser cut for me. This would be the greatest option. If you have one let me know if you can help.
 
#8
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#9
thebassbuilder said:
I do not know anyone I can go to for having the logo laser cut for me. This would be the greatest option. If you have one let me know if you can help.
Click to expand...
do a search for a laser cutting shop in your area and discover who offers services to cut the materials you want to use

here's one example of a shop that offers this kind of service: Laser Cutting Shop (I have not used this company, and have no affiliation with them)

p_laser_cutting_shop_wood_wyn_guitars.jpg
 
#10
Another option would be to:
1.) Rout the overall recess in the headstock, pour it full of black epoxy, level off the surface.
2.) Layout and rout the "M" as a recess into the black epoxy.
3.) Pour white or pearl tinted epoxy into that recess
4.) Level that with the surface, spray with clear top coats.

It may be easier to rout your "M" than to cut it out from pearl material.
 
#11
thebassbuilder said:
I am about finished with this most recent build I am doing for someone. I want to try and do a MOP inlay for my logo. The way I have my logo is, I drill a 3/4" hole about an 1/8" in the headstock. From there I would take black construction paper add the a decal of my "M" I use then epoxy over it. I like this and it works for the most part but the epoxy is too cloudy for my liking. So I want to do something similar but use MOP to do this with. I was thinking of cutting the "M" out and inlaying it in black epoxy sand smooth and there you go. My only concern is the cutting out of the M. I have never cut this stuff before and not sure I am that comfortable in doing so at this point. I know how they do it but don't want it to look sub par. So I had this thought but let me know if you think the end result will be a good one. Cut the MOP out as close to the size circle I need, glue it in with black epoxy and then put the M decal on the MOP and paint it black over all the inlay area and then remove the decal so the MOP shows through. Let me know if this would be a good idea and not a cheap way to do things. This bass is no joke and I want the buyer to be happy with this part just like the rest of it.
Click to expand...

First, If you're going to continue building instruments you might want to consider working up a logo in a simple graphics program and getting a batch done by someone like the DePaules at Luthiersupply.com .

If you're doing only a few you can hand-cut and shape them or have someone local laser them as has been mentioned.

If you want do do things really easily consider the way that I do logos, adding them before the overlay is glued in place. It's dead simple, almost goof-proof, and ends up looking very polished and professional. I covered the basics of doing the logo in a recent build topic, so check out the photos and text beginning at #63.

30” Scale Compact Semi-acoustic Fretless Bass Build
 
#12
rudy4444 said:
First, If you're going to continue building instruments you might want to consider working up a logo in a simple graphics program and getting a batch done by someone like the DePaules at Luthiersupply.com .

If you're doing only a few you can hand-cut and shape them or have someone local laser them as has been mentioned.

If you want do do things really easily consider the way that I do logos, adding them before the overlay is glued in place. It's dead simple, almost goof-proof, and ends up looking very polished and professional. I covered the basics of doing the logo in a recent build topic, so check out the photos and text beginning at #63.

30” Scale Compact Semi-acoustic Fretless Bass Build
Click to expand...
Great work and nice way of doing things.
 
#15
Hopkins said:
Spiral blades are good in the fact that you can cut in any direction, but personally I think straight blades cut much straighter.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I agree. The spiral blades are great if you are cutting something with really intricate curves. But, in most cases, I'd rather use a straight blade, because I can more accurately steer the cut by the angle of the frame.
 
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#16
By the way, another option is to use aluminum rather than MOP for your logo. An aluminum shape set into black epoxy looks very nice, and it can save you several steps. First, the aluminum is easier to saw out with the jeweler's saw, because it isn't so fragile. It bends rather than snaps. Use like 0.040" 6061 sheet. After you make the first few hand cut with your saw, work up a computer file and have someone laser cut a batch for you.

You can cast them in place, without having to do any inlay-type routing. Bore your round hole, maybe 0.100" deep. Mix up some black epoxy and pour some into the hole, just barely filling it. Let it sit for a while until it starts to thicken. Then gently press the aluminum emblem into the surface, keeping it close to flush with the surrounding wood. After it's cured, file it all flush, sand it to 400 grit, and spray your clear top coats.

Important tip: after you drill the hole in the headstock, seal up the inside walls of the hole with something; clear finish, wood glue, superglue, clear epoxy. This will prevent the black tinted epoxy from seeping into the wood and making fuzzy edges. And in this business, we hate fuzzy edges.
 
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#17
Bruce Johnson said:
By the way, another option is to use aluminum rather than MOP for your logo. An aluminum shape set into black epoxy looks very nice, and it can save you several steps. First, the aluminum is easier to saw out with the jeweler's saw, because it isn't so fragile. It bends rather than snaps. Use like 0.040" 6061 sheet. After you make the first few hand cut with your saw, work up a computer file and have someone laser cut a batch for you.

You can cast them in place, without having to do any inlay-type routing. Bore your round hole, maybe 0.100" deep. Mix up some black epoxy and pour some into the hole, just barely filling it. Let it sit for a while until it starts to thicken. Then gently press the aluminum emblem into the surface, keeping it close to flush with the surrounding wood. After it's cured, file it all flush, sand it to 400 grit, and spray your clear top coats.

Important tip: after you drill the hole in the headstock, seal up the inside walls of the hole with something; clear finish, wood glue, superglue, clear epoxy. This will prevent the black tinted epoxy from seeping into the wood and making fuzzy edges. And in this business, we hate fuzzy edges.
Click to expand...
I am so glad you mentioned to seal the hole before using the black epoxy. Also I like the idea of metal inlay. I tried cutting the mop and I was halfway there when it fel on the floor and broke in half. I hope I can get this figured out. I don't want to have a bunch of these made as I am only building one instrument a year for now. Fun times!
 
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