Jazz bass wiring

May 16, 2016
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Any reason why the fender diagram uses a solder lug and no ground lead on the output jack as opposed to the Seymour Duncan diagram with has no solder lug and a ground sleeve on the output jack? Right now I accidentally have both.

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In mass production, it is very common to cut corners, in order to keep costs low. This is what Fender often does with their grounding schemes. The pots and output jack are mounted on a metal control plate, which provides a connection to ground. This is perfectly adequate in the short term, but it is preferable to have dedicated soldered wires, like the Seymour Duncan diagram shows, so that the grounds will be reliable if either the nut on a pot/jack comes loose, or the metals corrode. If you are doing your own wiring job, be sure to use soldered connections for your grounds.

As for the lug, that is there to ground the conductive shielding paint that is in the control cavities, since you cannot solder to it. If you are doing your own wiring job with copper tape, then you can solder directly to the copper. Paint will always require a ground lug, however.
 
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Was on planning on it, but looks like I'll go ahead and do a full copper shield on the cavity and pickguard, did it on one of my P's.

Does conductive paint go bad after a while? My multimeter says "yes"
 
Was on planning on it, but looks like I'll go ahead and do a full copper shield on the cavity and pickguard, did it on one of my P's.

Does conductive paint go bad after a while? My multimeter says "yes"

Conductive paint should not "go bad," but often mass produced instruments will have poorly applied paint jobs. You need several coats to get good conductivity, but often a manufacturer will just apply one coat, to cut costs/production time.

If you have conductive paint shielding, it's not a good idea to apply copper over it, unless the copper has conductive adhesive. It's better to just apply additional layers of paint.
 
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If you have conductive paint shielding, it's not a good idea to apply copper over it, unless the copper has conductive adhesive. It's better to just apply additional layers of paint.

Couldn't get my multimeter to beep in continuity mode when making contacts with my leads inside the route. Only assuming it's conductive paint because the stock wiring had the solder lug screwed into the body. It's a 2001 MIA jazz by the way. Pretty sure it's stock.