Low E Intonation Weirdness\Concern

Collin Lyle

Why not?
Supporting Member
Feb 22, 2018
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I have a Serek Midwestern 2 (30.5" scale) with a Hipshot SuperTone Gibson 2-Point Bridge. I've been trying out different strings lately. The last couple of sets I didn't bother doing a setup as I was pretty sure they would be temporary. I noticed the low E was a bit sharp on the 12th fret. The put a set of D'Adarrio Chromes Flat Short Scale .045-.100 on a couple of days ago I decided I would check the neck and fix the intonation. I'm looking to get the lowest action I can and these strings seems to have more tension than the previous sets.

Anywho, the saddles are as low as they can go and the the low E saddle is cranked back as far as it will go (see photos). Still the low E is slightly sharp. The saddle is right up to the silk. And, the nut is right at the silk. Is there something going on here? Are these strings just not good for this bass? Or, could the E string just be bad somehow and causing this?

I don't know much about string problems or bass setups more then neck relief, action, and intonation. So, any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanx.
 

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It happens. Different combinations sometimes work better than others. I really wouldn't worry about the E being a little off- you'd likely never notice unless you're playing high chords or octaves with the E string, which is unlikely. If it works it works. IMO.
 
Those strings are a bad match for that bass...the silk taper should transition between the nut and tuner post.

If just slightly sharp, I wouldn't get too bent-out-of-shape. Try re-setting your witness points then re-check intonation.

Riis
 
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Those strings are a bad match for that bass...the silk taper should transition between the nut and tuner post.

If just slightly sharp, I wouldn't get too bent-out-of-shape. Try re-setting your witness points then re-check intonation.

Riis
Excuse my ignorance, what are witness points?
 
As Zooberwerx said, those strings are not a good match for that bass. Chromes are a high tension string and are particularly stiff. Such a string will need extra intonation room at the saddles. If you went with a highly flexible flatwound with lower tension you wouldn't have this problem.
 
Excuse my ignorance, what are witness points?

Essentially, it's the clean break or bend at the fingerboard side of the nut and bridge saddle. It's necessary to establish a true vibrating string path. Failure to do so results in wonky action, tuning, and intonation. Easy to do: just take your big ol' thumb and mash-down forcibly on the string on the leading (fingerboard) side of the nut slot and bridge saddle. If successful and viewed from the side, you should see a fairly well-defined break angle. You'll more than likely have to tweak string height & intonation, as well.

Riis
 
Suppose I should swing back in here.

It was the strings. Bad fit for the bass. Swapped in Dunlop's flats (they're lower tension) and the intonation issue is no more.

Those still had the issue of the silk at the nut on the D & G strings end on the nut, not past it.

Next set of strings to try: LaBella Low Tension Flats
 
Suppose I should swing back in here.

It was the strings. Bad fit for the bass. Swapped in Dunlop's flats (they're lower tension) and the intonation issue is no more.

Those still had the issue of the silk at the nut on the D & G strings end on the nut, not past it.

Next set of strings to try: LaBella Low Tension Flats
Something I learned recently as I delved into the world of short scale basses: find the winding length of the strings before you buy them and check that number on your bass. That's the distance between the ball end and the first winding. LaBella makes special sets for the Hofner Beatle Bass and for Mustangs with string-through-body construction.