Double Bass Multipurpose Cleaners

Hi all,
Wondering about cleaners that I can use for fingerboard and body of instrument, I used Dunlop Orchestral 65 for a couple of years but recently ran out. Problem is, every 'instrument polish' such as the Kolstein kit or likewise seem to just be tiny and expensive, so I was wondering about alternatives that can be used for multipurpose cleaning.
Thanks!
 
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It doesn’t work that way. Assuming your bass is varnished and not sprayed in polyurethane, the best thing for it is to wipe it down with a clean cotton cloth after every playing session. Ebony fingerboards can be cleaned and conditioned with pure lemon oil and abrasion from a green scrubby pad to remove built-up finger grease and other grime.
 
It doesn’t work that way. Assuming your bass is varnished and not sprayed in polyurethane, the best thing for it is to wipe it down with a clean cotton cloth after every playing session. Ebony fingerboards can be cleaned and conditioned with pure lemon oil and abrasion from a green scrubby pad to remove built-up finger grease and other grime.
Thank you! I do indeed cloth-wipe the bass (body and fingerboard) every time I finish playing, and I’ll look into lemon oil :)
 
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What’s the best strategy for getting somebody else’s hand gunk off the back of a neck and heel after they borrow your bass? Asking for a friend.
I’m an oft gunky handed fella. I liberally apply the same oil I put on my cutting boards (high viscosity mineral oil) to the back of the neck and fingerboard of my basses, but never the body. Removes all the gunk, penetrates to protect it the next time I come in to carelessly play for half hour between whatever gnarsty projects I’m working on.
 
Mineral oil = petroleum = increased likelihood of cancer after excessive exposure.

I clean the gunk off of unfinished necks with a damp green scrubby pad with a small dab of Dawn dish soap to break down the lipids. It’s not non-toxic but it’s a lower level of risk.

Whaaaaa!?!?!? Glad I said something, thanks for the heads up!
 
I've been using alcohol (ethanol) for cleaning rosin off the strings and bridge, because it was first common home chemical I found working. With the rag still wet from ethanol (which evaporates quickly), I also clean the body. Soft touch, and only when neccessary. The body is polished with shellac, which should be easily wiped off with alcohol, but this way it isn't. I've been doing this for at least 10 years now with no problem.

Sometimes I use Dunlop 65 blue for strings, and Dunlop 65 brown for ebony fingerboard. I do it very sparsely, the not knowing what kind of chemicals are inside makes me a little nervous. But it works also with no problems.

The simpler method, the better, I think. I believe that if it worked for my grandma's furniture for 100 years with no issue, it will work for the bass too.
 
Whaaaaa!?!?!? Glad I said something, thanks for the heads up!

Facts. You’re basically eating jet fuel. I’d discontinue that practice immediately.

Ethanol or isopropyl are fine for removing rosin from steel strings, or, in a pinch, to remove finger gunk from your fingerboard, but literally god**** everybody says not to let any of it drip on your varnish. Your bass is probably worth more than grandma’s old furniture, and furniture doesn’t lose 40 percent of its’ value if the original varnish gets trashed.
 
I bought a bottle of WEIMAN Lemon Oil at Ace Hardware and failed to read the front and back fine print. Contains white mineral oil, and UVX-15 sunscreen. Worse yet, one cannot drink it; it can cause death and other side effects!
Does some other tricks too but, does not mention use for musical instruments.

I will be searching for the pure stuff...any particular brand/source?
 
Back from testing ... WHITE scotchbrite. on pretty much any surface including fingerboard. Equivalent of 0000 steel wool, the used flakes easily vacuum or wipe away, works with any cleaning liquid or not. The Amazon off brand pads https://www.amazon.com/Commercial-G...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
tested on a bunch of less valuable surfaces before my FB and works a treat. Cut a 3" wide strip the short way off the big pad , pull the pad into two thinner sections , fits under strings pretty nicely up to about 2" away from the nut . Makes it easy to clean the FB every couple weeks without needing to put the beast on its back, slack strings, etc.
 
Back from testing ... WHITE scotchbrite. on pretty much any surface including fingerboard. Equivalent of 0000 steel wool, the used flakes easily vacuum or wipe away, works with any cleaning liquid or not. The Amazon off brand pads https://www.amazon.com/Commercial-Grade-Non-Abrasive-Mop-Multi-Purpose-Universal/dp/B079JWGDN9/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3SVKML3F010EH&keywords=white+scotchbrite+pads&qid=1698600060&sprefix=white+scotchbrite,aps,119&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
tested on a bunch of less valuable surfaces before my FB and works a treat. Cut a 3" wide strip the short way off the big pad , pull the pad into two thinner sections , fits under strings pretty nicely up to about 2" away from the nut . Makes it easy to clean the FB every couple weeks without needing to put the beast on its back, slack strings, etc.
Yes, and...after using the Scotchbrite pad, you can polish the neck (not the fingerboard), using some 3M Wetordry #1500 grit "sandpaper", (used in automotive paint finishing.) The (DRY) #1500 grit will NOT remove any wood, but will polish the neck surface to a slick, smooth, glassy texture. I have been using this method (every few months) for the past 25 years with great results.
Also, too...When I last took my bass to Lisa Gass at LA Bassworks, she commented on the smooth texture of the neck on my Juzek, and asked how I achieved it...I let her know about the 3M #1500 Wetordry product & method. She raised her eyebrows!
FYI.
Thanks.