Name that truss rod, used (old) bass inspection help

B

Brian VT

Mar 8, 2017
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#1
I'm going to check this old bass out tomorrow morning. I'm guessing it's some type of Teisco?
I'm told "one pickup doesn't work". I think I can prob deal with that.
What else to look out for? Should I try to make sure the truss rod works? What tool might be needed for that?
Any other advice appreciated.

B1.jpg
 
#2
It looks like it has a spoke wheel adjuster for the truss rod at the neck heel. Any small diameter rod that will fit into the holes in the spoke wheel will be useful to test the functioning of the rod. Since you don't know the size of the holes in the spoke wheel, I suggest taking a selection of small diameter drill bits.
 
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#4
I'd be surprised if the owner/seller allowed you to "test" the truss rod. If it were mine, I wouldn't let you touch it. The truss rods on those old import basses are fragile and easy to strip or snap. You could ruin the bass right there in front of the seller. Then what?

Inspect the neck visually to see how straight it is. It may have a significant forward bow. If so, you'll have to decide whether or not to buy it and take a risk. But don't try to straighten the neck right there in front of him, as a condition of buying it.
 
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#5
Those old basses often had exposed contact switches. A shot of contact cleaner might bring that dead pickup back to life. If it's cheap enough and the neck is straight enough I say go for it. I love the scroll headstock too.
 
#6
Yeah. I'm assuming the pickup may be ok and it's the switch that needs attention.
He sounds like a newb (even more newb than me) so I don't think he'll care if I mess with the truss rod but I think I'll take your advice and decide based on what shape it's in now and not try to adjust it. It would suck if I broke or stripped it.
For those of you that have stripped or broken one, can that happen when loosening or usually only when tightening/adding bow?
Thanks guys.
 
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#7
My thought would be that if the bass is tuned to pitch and you sight down the neck or use a string to check how straight it is, and it appears to be straight, the truss rod is doing something. I wouldn't completely relax but I'd definitely feel better about the neck.
 
#9
Thanks again for the advice.
I did end up buying it. It plays great as-is, other than the neck pickup not working and a scratchy pot. Hopefully DeoxIT does the trick but, if not, I may attempt a re-wire some day.
I plan to put flat-wounds on it. Maybe the new low tension Labelles.
It has a zero fret, which is kinda neat, as is the scroll headstock.
There's a stamp inside that says 72 so maybe that's what year it was made.
I'd love to find a bridge cover and pickguard/finger rest for it. (like shown below)
 
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#12
Brian VT said:
It plays great as-is, other than the neck pickup not working and a scratchy pot. Hopefully DeoxIT does the trick but, if not, I may attempt a re-wire some day.
I plan to put flat-wounds on it. Maybe the new low tension Labelles.
Click to expand...
DeoxIT did the trick. Pots now work smooth and sound clean. Switch and neck pickup now also working fine. Good stuff!
I threw some Chromes I had on it and am a happy camper. :) I may still order some LaBelles or Rotos.
Thanks again for y'all's advice.
 
#14
Neither of those are my model of bass. I just posted them to show the look of a pickguard and bridge cover on my type of bass. I couldn't find pics of my exact model with those on it.
Sorry for the confusion.
 
#16
Not trying to hijack, but if the truss rod nut was munged up what would be the remedy? I've never had any problem with any of mine but I'm still green and have confined all my training to MIM jazz basses of recent manufacture, but I'm feeling the urge to branch out.

If I ran across a frozen or balky nut I would think oil would be bad as it would swell the wood, but I can't think of any other way besides heat to maybe get it freed up.
 
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