Neck reshape advice

Bent77

Bent77

Mar 6, 2013
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Desert, Colorado
#1
Looking to cut down a Precision neck into Jazz bass specs. Mostly because good necks are impossible to find anymore

FWIW I like the Aerodyne Necks and also the Pro I Jazz necks with the tall thin frets

Also a big fan of the way the American necks are built and the tuners.

I’ve read some and watched videos


Any advice?
 
#2
About what? What's the question? But I think it would be easier if you define the exact specification that meet your criteria and then go have a neck made for you. Typically between $300-$800 though. But you'll get what you want.
 
#4
Yes it's perfectly doable with a few considerations. The first being, is it bound? If so, I'd agree with trying to find another neck. If it's not bound, I've thinned a neck this way by filing the sides down evenly with a large file and working slowly. I use a smaller half-round file to blend the areas around the nut into the sides of the headstock. Closer to the end, I switch to a sanding block with around 120 grit and then up to 220 then fine hand sanding. After that, I redo the fret ends and dress the frets.

You'll probably have to refinish the back and sides of the neck, but you can easily do this without disturbing the headstock face or flat of the back. Another consideration is how deep the side dots have been installed - I've not run into a problem with this, but it's theoretically possible if very thin dots were installed. Worst case scenario, you have to replace a dot.

It likely goes without saying but you'll also need to cut a new nut, unless you like your strings really close to the edges of the board. :)

This works easiest going from 1.625" to 1.5" (or 1/16" per side), but you can also narrow a wider neck, though you'll end up shaping the transition to the headstock edges more.

Post up here and the hive mind can help problem solve and point out potential pitfalls. :thumbsup:
 
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#5
Bent77 said:
Narrow at the nut and reshape

Looking for advice from those that have done so
While I’m not opposed to making one or having one made, like to pursue this avenue
Click to expand...
I re-shaped a Mini-Strat neck to convert it to an electric octave mandolin. I power sanded the neck width down, including existing frets, and had no difficulty. You should be able to do the same thing to narrow and re-shape a P bass neck to jazz width.
Sanding is done a little at a time to prevent heating of the frets. It worked out quite well, and I did a photo essay of the process, available HERE on Martin Stillion's E-Mando website.

Scroll down to the photo with this text:
"View showing flattened sides of neck after initial sanding
This view shows the neck side profile after it has been narrowed to its correct dimensions. Before further work on the neck is done, the fret ends should be re-beveled and rounded slightly. This is done by running an 8" single-cut file down the length of the neck while holding the file at a slight angle. This will bevel the fret ends uniformly. Follow this with 150 grit sandpaper held at the same angle as the fret end bevel. Finish by passing a folded pad of 220 grit sandpaper over the ends of the frets. Hold the sandpaper with the fingertips at the same angle as the fret bevel and polish the ends of the frets. This will round the ends slightly. Repeat this 220 sandpaper treatment until all roughness is gone. The edge of the fingerboard can also be slightly rounded for comfort."
 
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#6
Beej said:
Yes it's perfectly doable with a few considerations. The first being, is it bound? If so, I'd agree with trying to find another neck. If it's not bound, I've thinned a neck this way by filing the sides down evenly with a large file and working slowly. I use a smaller half-round file to blend the areas around the nut into the sides of the headstock. Closer to the end, I switch to a sanding block with around 120 grit and then up to 220 then fine hand sanding. After that, I redo the fret ends and dress the frets.

You'll probably have to refinish the back and sides of the neck, but you can easily do this without disturbing the headstock face or flat of the back. Another consideration is how deep the side dots have been installed - I've not run into a problem with this, but it's theoretically possible if very thin dots were installed. Worst case scenario, you have to replace a dot.

It likely goes without saying but you'll also need to cut a new nut, unless you like your strings really close to the edges of the board. :)

This works easiest going from 1.625" to 1.5" (or 1/16" per side), but you can also narrow a wider neck, though you'll end up shaping the transition to the headstock edges more.

Post up here and the hive mind can help problem solve and point out potential pitfalls. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I don't actually have said neck at the moment, but definitely avoiding the binding
There have been several basses that I have liked everything but the neck profile
I feel like those days are coming to an end...
:smug:



rudy4444 said:
I re-shaped a Mini-Strat neck to convert it to an electric octave mandolin. I power sanded the neck width down, including existing frets, and had no difficulty. You should be able to do the same thing to narrow and re-shape a P bass neck to jazz width.
Sanding is done a little at a time to prevent heating of the frets. It worked out quite well, and I did a photo essay of the process, available HERE on Martin Stillion's E-Mando website.

Scroll down to the photo with this text:
"View showing flattened sides of neck after initial sanding
This view shows the neck side profile after it has been narrowed to its correct dimensions. Before further work on the neck is done, the fret ends should be re-beveled and rounded slightly. This is done by running an 8" single-cut file down the length of the neck while holding the file at a slight angle. This will bevel the fret ends uniformly. Follow this with 150 grit sandpaper held at the same angle as the fret end bevel. Finish by passing a folded pad of 220 grit sandpaper over the ends of the frets. Hold the sandpaper with the fingertips at the same angle as the fret bevel and polish the ends of the frets. This will round the ends slightly. Repeat this 220 sandpaper treatment until all roughness is gone. The edge of the fingerboard can also be slightly rounded for comfort."
Click to expand...

This is a nice little write up. Thanks for posting that
 
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#7
Well I give you props for going for neck taper and nut width. Means you’ll also have to replace the nut, and you’ll lose your side dots. I have thinned out the back of the neck before but never the sides. Only advice I can give is you’ll want to put a finish back anywhere it was removed if it’s maple to keep moisture out of the wood.

I’m way too lazy to put that much work into it, if it was me I just replace it with a Warmoth neck, but do what makes you happy.
Good lock and tell us how it goes when you are finished.
 
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#8
AK Bass Guy said:
Well I give you props for going for neck taper and nut width. Means you’ll also have to replace the nut, and you’ll lose your side dots. I have thinned out the back of the neck before but never the sides. Only advice I can give is you’ll want to put a finish back anywhere it was removed if it’s maple to keep moisture out of the wood.

I’m way too lazy to put that much work into it, if it was me I just replace it with a Warmoth neck, but do what makes you happy.
Good lock and tell us how it goes when you are finished.
Click to expand...
Hence he posted in the Luthier's Corner. ;)
 
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#11
I have done this before. The biggest issue really is putting a finish back on it, unless you want to try your luck with some sort of oil finish. I recommend a hard impermeable finish. A pair of those $15 Chinese digital calipers helps a lot in a job like this. You’ll want to remove an equal amount from both sides of the neck and as mentioned you’ll need a new nut. You’re not removing a ton of wood, so a big file will allow you to sneak up to the dimensions you want. Check regularly that there’s no waviness along the sides where you are
 
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