non yellowing clear coat

[jonnymorrow]

Hey luthier friends. I've been spraying with Nitro for a while now and not only am I kinda tired of spraying but I'm tired of my instruments all "yellowing" or "darkening." Love that raw wood look. Who out there has had success with a wipe on finish that is as little darkening or color changig as possible? Suggestions?

Thanks guys!

 

[HaMMerHeD]

You may try some water-based polyurethane. Using water based products for instrument finishing, Target Coatings 9000 6000 and Varathane WB

Or Solarez, which is a sunlight-hardened polyester resin.

 

[jonnymorrow]

Thanks HaMMerHeD. Yeah definitely going water based. Any products you recommend? Thanks for the link too but i'm hoping for a wipe on solution not a spray.

 

[GMC]

UV / Solarez might well be the way to go. It can be brushed on and it stays liquid up until it's exposed to the sun. Once cured...it's harder than most finishes.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Polyester resin = non-yellowing

 

[jonnymorrow]

Thanks guys! Will definitely give the UV resin a try!

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Regarding waterborne polyurethane, I've only ever used a General Finishes high-performance version. It was easy to brush on evenly and cured very hard. It did take a lot of layers and sanding to level out the brush strokes though.

 

[jonnymorrow]

I don't mind the sanding too much. Non yellowing is #1 priority. Also love the ease of use with the UV. Let's see what happens!

 

[Hopkins]

My go to answer would be an automotive 2k urethane clear.

 

[jonnymorrow]

Looking for a wipe on.

 

[Hopkins]

Looking for a wipe on.

Why? Its more work, more sanding, a greater chance of witness lines ect. Spraying is a much better way of applying a high gloss finish.

 

[jonnymorrow]

I guess I'll find out.

 

[praisegig]

My go to answer would be an automotive 2k urethane clear.

I would buy a can of SprayMax or Eastwood 2K clear, spray 3 coats, wait 24 hours to cure, wet sand and polish. No wipe on will give you the same performance

 

[T_Bone_TL]

I have no idea how it would hold up as an instrument finish, but I did some furniture with Minwax Polycrylic 20+ years ago and it's still clear and holding up well to "not treated preciously" furniture use.

 

[Chrome Dome]

Speaking of yellowing clearcoat,think that is what happened when previous owner had my Jazz bass,and had the neck sprayed with clearcoat? Would like to get the neck yellow look off? Any advice on how to get the clear coat off?

 

[bobdabilder]

Strip the finish off the neck.

Speaking of yellowing clearcoat,think that is what happened when previous owner had my Jazz bass,and had the neck sprayed with clearcoat? Would like to get the neck yellow look off? Any advice on how to get the clear coat off?View attachment 932547

 

[Chrome Dome]

Strip the finish off the neck.

Ok,any recommendations,what to use? Thanks

 

[bobdabilder]

To do it right i think the frets would have to come out. Then i'd be worried about damaging the inlays. I'm not sure i would touch that one. And its bound.....

 

[bobdabilder]

Someone braver will drive by.

 

[younggun]

I have successfully used a wipe-on method on furniture many times. In fact it's my go to for any type of finishing project. Generally I use polyurethane thinned out by 50%. I wipe hand wipe (not brush) on many thin coats (15 to 20 usually), sanding with 600 to 2000 grit every few coats. If I get a drip, it is very thin, and can be sanded right off before the next coats. I get a very glossy finish when done with no ripples or drips. I don't see any reason why this couldn't be done with a water based finish on a bass guitar. It may seem labor intensive, but it really just takes a few minutes to wipe on each coat, then its just a matter of being patient btwn each coat (and having a dust free environment for drying).