NSD...!!!

E

eastcoasteddie

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Mar 24, 2006
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#1
New Speaker Day!
Got a BassLite S2010 for my Rumble 40.
8B9F3637-2D57-4EC3-909D-22053ACFABE9.jpg


252F055C-BA23-4CC1-BAEE-A3CFEB1EA4C6.jpg

I have followed mods by @AstroSonic in past Rumble V3 threads, and have already lined the interior of the cab with acoustic foam. The port tube specified from Parts Express ( "Precision Port PSP-2TB 2" Diameter x 7" Long Port Tube" from www.parts-express.com! ) doesn’t fit in the port hole as noted in the thread. I did notice that my particular amp does have a short port tube already installed (maybe 2” long?), so I bypassed that mod for now.

Got a few errands to run before I can install...can’t wait to hear it!
 
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#7
Killed_by_Death said:
I've been scouring the net for a super-small, super-light 2x10", but this upgrade might be a better answer.
Oops, I'm seeing it drops off pretty quickly at 4 kHz, not sure if it would be good for double-duty (guitar & bass).
Click to expand...

You’ll need something with a dedicated mid driver that can be low passed with a switch. Like a Hathor 1203.
 
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#8
The Rumble 40's 10" stock driver does ok for guitar, for me. It's probably not fantastic sounding for guitar, but it's better than the Rumble 100 (12" Eminence) with guitar.
The 12" in the 100 definitely has less high end, and heavy on the lows.
Funny, because I don't notice the 10" missing lows, but I do miss the highs with the 12".
 
#10
eastcoasteddie said:
New Speaker Day!
Got a BassLite S2010 for my Rumble 40.
View attachment 2856962

View attachment 2856963
I have followed mods by @AstroSonic in past Rumble V3 threads, and have already lined the interior of the cab with acoustic foam. The port tube specified from Parts Express ( "Precision Port PSP-2TB 2" Diameter x 7" Long Port Tube" from www.parts-express.com! ) doesn’t fit in the port hole as noted in the thread. I did notice that my particular amp does have a short port tube already installed (maybe 2” long?), so I bypassed that mod for now.

Got a few errands to run before I can install...can’t wait to hear it!
Click to expand...

The precision port 2" tubing fit perfectly in my Rumble 40 VIII. How much difference was there? Retuning is important because the stock tuning, at around 75 Hz, is way too high for the S2010 (unless you want peaked mid/upper bass, no deeper mid and lower bass, and low excursion limited power handling). It's possible that Fender changed the porting (and tuning?). If you provide measurements of the porting I can check it. The ID and OD, as well as port length will be helpful.
 
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#12
AstroSonic said:
The precision port 2" tubing fit perfectly in my Rumble 40 VIII. How much difference was there? Retuning is important because the stock tuning, at around 75 Hz, is way too high for the S2010 (unless you want peaked mid/upper bass, no deeper mid and lower bass, and low excursion limited power handling). It's possible that Fender changed the porting (and tuning?). If you provide measurements of the porting I can check it. The ID and OD, as well as port length will be helpful.
Click to expand...
Here is a photo of one of my ports.
D5DBA96E-6382-478C-99B8-23E0DD8866BF.jpg

(Inside you can see the acoustical foam)
The ID of the hole and port is just under 2-1/8”; I’d have to measure with a caliper to be exact. Depth of the tube + the front wood panel is 1-1/4” (the tube is actually 15/16”, the wood is 5/16”).
 
#13
AstroSonic said:
The precision port 2" tubing fit perfectly in my Rumble 40 VIII. How much difference was there? Retuning is important because the stock tuning, at around 75 Hz, is way too high for the S2010 (unless you want peaked mid/upper bass, no deeper mid and lower bass, and low excursion limited power handling). It's possible that Fender changed the porting (and tuning?). If you provide measurements of the porting I can check it. The ID and OD, as well as port length will be helpful.
Click to expand...
Definitely follow Astro's advice on retuning the ports. I initially retuned mine a bit lower in frequency based on some reading in a different thread and it was OK, but when I tried Astro's recommended tuning frequency, the tone was much better. I can't remember what the recommended frequency was precisely but I verified the tuning after installation of new port tubes by feeding a low volume sine wave into the amp with a grain of rice lying on the speaker cone--when you find the frequency where the rice is virtually motionless, that's the port's frequency, and mine matched the calculated/expected frequency. Good luck, Bob
 
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#14
@AstroSonic
I measured the tube I got from Parts Express with a caliper, the OD measures 2.15”
Giving benefit of the doubt that the port opening ID is exactly 2-1/8”, that is 2.125”. The tube is a hair larger than the port opening...
When I have some time, I guess what I can do is cut the tube length-wise with a thin hacksaw or a really thin cut-off wheel (ala Dremel) and then squeeze the tube into the port. Then glue the seam...
 
#15
eastcoasteddie said:
@AstroSonic
I measured the tube I got from Parts Express with a caliper, the OD measures 2.15”
Giving benefit of the doubt that the port opening ID is exactly 2-1/8”, that is 2.125”. The tube is a hair larger than the port opening...
When I have some time, I guess what I can do is cut the tube length-wise with a thin hacksaw or a really thin cut-off wheel (ala Dremel) and then squeeze the tube into the port. Then glue the seam...
Click to expand...

That will work, or you could just sand the hole ID and 1/2 inch of the port tube - you just need 0.025" total. Sandpaper wrapped around a piece of doweling works quite well. Or use a sanding drum for a drill. When the tube just fits, spread some aquarium (silicone) glue on the end of the tube and push it in from the back.
 
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#16
AstroSonic said:
That will work, or you could just sand the hole ID and 1/2 inch of the port tube - you just need 0.025" total. Sandpaper wrapped around a piece of doweling works quite well. Or use a sanding drum for a drill. When the tube just fits, spread some aquarium (silicone) glue on the end of the tube and push it in from the back.
Click to expand...
Measuring the port in the amp with a caliper - runs 2.085”...no wonder it doesn’t fit...
So my question now is...should I modify the plastic tube to fit inside the roughly 2” existing port?
 
#17
eastcoasteddie said:
Measuring the port in the amp with a caliper - runs 2.085”...no wonder it doesn’t fit...
So my question now is...should I modify the plastic tube to fit inside the roughly 2” existing port?
Click to expand...

In that case, glue the port tube onto the inside surface so that the hole in the wood adds to the port length. Just trim the plastic port tubes so the total length is correct. You can use aquarium (silicone) glue, adding a little build up around the outside. Do this with the cab facing downward, bridging a couple chairs so that you can position the tubes and let the glue cure - a couple hours is enough if the air is at least in the upper 60's.
 
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