1. It's more than similar. Any instrument with two pickups and a 4-way switch diagrams out to be exactly the same.
2. There isn't just one way to do this. Of all the various 4-way switches out there, the 4-way Tele blade switch is by the easiest to use because it's large, is easy to check visually and has a nice tactile feedback. However, it requires a blade route, which most basses, for whatever reason, don't have, but if you can make one, it's obviously the one to use.
A rotary switch is the second best option, but verify that you have enough room for all of the wiring, which can get pretty large. A 4-position 4-pole rotary switch used to be pretty available from guitarelectronics.com, but I haven't seen it available recently. There might be a switch on DigiKey or Mouser that works. You can use a 5-position 4-pole rotary switch, in the mean time, usually sold as a PRS style switch. However, given that it's a 5-position, you either duplicate one position, or you can add another position, like the Bill Lawrence half-out-of-phase, or anything you can draw, really. If you want to work on a fun electronic puzzle, drawing a perfect 24-pole switch scheme can be a really rewarding exercise. I've done it before and it was well worth it. But it's not for the faint of heart.
Anyway, the diagram can be adapted for V-V-T by placing a volume knob where the neck and bridge pickup inputs are, and by connecting the master tone to where the output to the switch is, and then the output goes straight to jack. This also inadvertently creates what's known as 50s wiring, in which there is volume knob as the tone knob is turned down, but you retain more brightness as the volume knob is turned down.
3. V-V-T makes for some difficulty 4-way series-parallel wiring unless you have some good way of bypassing the second volume knob in series, which may be possible by redrawing the above diagram, but I've never tried to draw it myself. I say this because V-V-T was supposed to work with reversed volume knobs connected simply in parallel, no switch. But if you're using a switch, it's better to use regular volume knobs (like a Les Paul) with its output going to the switches, as that has better behavior when turning down, and then the second volume knob starts doing weird things when the pickups are in series, where it becomes what people call a spin-a-split, and it's not really a volume knob anymore, like you're just adding a little bit of the second pickup to the first pickup's output. So that could be kind of cool. But you have to understand that this is how it will work, and it might be too sophisticated for some users.
V-T with a 4-way, meanwhile, is extremely easy.
Lastly, you can use a V-switch-T with a regular 3-way switch (or an ungrounded blend) and use a push-pull parallel-series for either the V or the T, and when the series is pulled, the switch (or blend) would have no effect at all. This is quite easy to do, easy to use, and requires no blade switch routing and is very small under a control plate, whereas a rotary can be rather ginormous and cause problems in crowded control cavities. You can also use a toggle instead of a push-pull for the parallel-series, but that requires another hole, but that's a simple one to drill, vs. a blade switch which is quite difficult for a lot of people.
