Passive DI for Active Basses & Active DI for Passive Basses?

Smallmouth_Bass

Smallmouth_Bass

Dec 29, 2005
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#1
So I have read that it is best to have a passive DI for active basses and an active DI for passive basses. Wouldn't it be easier to get an active DI for everything? And, do you really have to have an active DI for passive basses? If you are running through a pedalboard that has one or more pedals with a buffered bypass (or when it's on), does it even matter?
 
#2
Smallmouth_Bass said:
So I have read that it is best to have a passive DI for active basses and an active DI for passive basses. Wouldn't it be easier to get an active DI for everything? And, do you really have to have an active DI for passive basses? If you are running through a pedalboard that has one or more pedals with a buffered bypass (or when it's on), does it even matter?
Click to expand...
IMHO, this is urban legend with a small bit of truth behind it.

Here is the thread from last Friday: Passive/active DI question | TalkBass.com

Some passive basses benefit significantly from an active DI, but many (most) are fine with a decent passive DI.

An active DI should work fine for most basses, but it's not required for most.

DIs have different qualities, so you can choose different DI's based on your bass and tone goals.

For example, the CountryMan Type 85 has 10Meg input impedance and the Radial J48 has 220K input impedance. Many consider 10Meg the gold standard for piezo pickups and 220K the gold standard for magnetic picks.

One of my comments from the other thread:
Wasnex said:
AFAIK, the Thru connection on both is parallel rather than buffered. So if you run the Thru to an amp, the input impedance of the amp is placed in parallel with the DI. If the input impedance of the amp is 1Meg, you get about 215K with the J48 and about 909K with the Type 85.
Click to expand...

An active pedal serves as a buffer for your signal. The pedal drives the DI and isolates the bass's pickups so the DI cannot load them down.

A true bypass pedal only buffers your signal when it is turned on.
 
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#3
Wasnex said:
IMHO, this is urban legend with a small bit of truth behind it.

Here is the thread from last Friday: Passive/active DI question | TalkBass.com

Some passive basses benefit significantly from an active DI, but many (most) are fine with a decent passive DI.

An active DI should work fine for most basses, but it's not required for most.

DIs have different qualities, so you can choose different DI's based on your bass and tone goals.

For example, the CountryMan Type 85 has 10Meg input impedance and the Radial J48 has 220K input impedance. Many consider 10Meg the gold standard for piezo pickups and 220K the gold standard for magnetic picks.

One of my comments from the other thread:


An active pedal serves as a buffer for your signal. The pedal drives the DI and isolates the bass's pickups so the DI cannot load them down.

A true bypass pedal only buffers your signal when it is turned on.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Any comments between the Radial JDI and J48? I remember someone did a DI shootout a while back and I was pleasantly surprised at how well the JDI sounded, especially for the price.

Ah yes, here it is:
 
#4
Smallmouth_Bass said:
Thanks!

Any comments between the Radial JDI and J48? I remember someone did a DI shootout a while back and I was pleasantly surprised at how well the JDI sounded, especially for the price.

Ah yes, here it is:
Click to expand...


I don't have a J48. I bought the PZ-DI which is a J48 variant with a different feature set. The PZ-DI's input impedance can be set between 220K, 1Meg, and 10Meg. I preferred the 1Meg position with my active bass. However, the difference is so small that it would be impossible to hear in a live setting IMHO. Haven't really put it to the test with a passive bass.

I bought a JDI Duplex for keys as I think it tends to smooth out synth piano so that it sounds a bit less digital.

I have played bass through the regular JDI and never had any problems. Before Radial became a thing, I played through a BSS AR116 or Countryman Type 85. Always good results.
 
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#6
I like active for everything. You can always dial back the tone knob on your bass if things are too bright. But, if you go passive and the soundman isn’t getting enough signal or it’s too flat at the board then you’re pretty much stuck. FWIW, my experience is based on using active and passive basses and both active and passive DI’s in many live situations. Despite having many many pricey DI’s, I actually find the Sansamp Bass Driver V2 is my go to. I run it with a relatively flat EQ, and having some volume and EQ control over the send is really practical and helpful in live situations.
 
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