Hey TB! This is my first post on the forum, and I apologize if this is the wrong location for my post. I wasn't sure exactly where to put this. Moderators feel free to relocate this thread as you see fit.
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Anyway, I've been playing bass for about a year and a half now, and have collected two axes in the process: An Ibanez Talman Bass 100 (TMB-100) in "walnut flat" color as my starter, and then a SBMM S.U.B. Ray5 in a "honey burst satin" finish as my second ax after I got the StingRay bug. I love both of my basses and all, but I don't find the standard 34" scale to be very comfortable in my case, so I want to look into getting a 30" scale bass as my new ax. I've been playing my Talman exclusively on the P bass pup and I love the tone of it, and I really dig the MM tone, so I figured why not mix the two? I understand that both pups cannot be in their sweet spots and I am okay with that.
I have my basic plans laid out in the files attached and I have a few questions about my plans.
I'm planning a reverse headstock for the neck for no other than aesthetic purposes, and I plan to integrate a Hipshot Xtender into the build as I found I had no use for the B on my Ray5 and figured drop D at the flick of a switch would be sufficient with me. Will a Hipshot Xtender still function on the low E with this sort of setup, or should I flip the headstock back around?
I picked the bridge route for the Schaller 463 as it appears to be physically identical to the Schaller 3D-4, and I would like to get a 3D-4 equipped with a piezo pup, for that extra bite a piezo bridge pup would provide. Will this 463 rout work? I do not have the necessary tools to do the routing myself, so I am limited to only being being able to use the routes Warmoth provides on their custom build page, which leads me to my next question.
Is there a bridge in this list that you guys would think would be better for this build?
This is my first time building a bass or stringed instrument in general, and I don't know much about bridges in particular.
...Or on-board preamps. From my understanding, a preamp is almost necessary for a piezo pickup. I don't recall where I read this and I am unsure of the integrity of the information. Assuming this information is true, what preamp would you guys recommend?
And I believe this is my last question at the moment, and it ties in with the last question, assuming the preamp is not necessary and I can go passive, will these pickups play well with each other?
EDIT: Would covers/casings for the pups that don’t expose the pole pieces stop the clicking of strings hitting them, and if so, where could I find them? I’m currently working on a different technique to pluck them in a way that doesn’t smack the pole pieces, but I’d like this have this as an option anyway.
Here's a really bad mockup I made in PS CS2 of what I imagine the shape would roughly look like if anyone's curious:
And that is all for now. If I find myself having any more questions, I'll edit this post. If any of you guys have any extra input, feel free to fire away with it. Cheers!
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Anyway, I've been playing bass for about a year and a half now, and have collected two axes in the process: An Ibanez Talman Bass 100 (TMB-100) in "walnut flat" color as my starter, and then a SBMM S.U.B. Ray5 in a "honey burst satin" finish as my second ax after I got the StingRay bug. I love both of my basses and all, but I don't find the standard 34" scale to be very comfortable in my case, so I want to look into getting a 30" scale bass as my new ax. I've been playing my Talman exclusively on the P bass pup and I love the tone of it, and I really dig the MM tone, so I figured why not mix the two? I understand that both pups cannot be in their sweet spots and I am okay with that.
I have my basic plans laid out in the files attached and I have a few questions about my plans.
I'm planning a reverse headstock for the neck for no other than aesthetic purposes, and I plan to integrate a Hipshot Xtender into the build as I found I had no use for the B on my Ray5 and figured drop D at the flick of a switch would be sufficient with me. Will a Hipshot Xtender still function on the low E with this sort of setup, or should I flip the headstock back around?
I picked the bridge route for the Schaller 463 as it appears to be physically identical to the Schaller 3D-4, and I would like to get a 3D-4 equipped with a piezo pup, for that extra bite a piezo bridge pup would provide. Will this 463 rout work? I do not have the necessary tools to do the routing myself, so I am limited to only being being able to use the routes Warmoth provides on their custom build page, which leads me to my next question.
Is there a bridge in this list that you guys would think would be better for this build?
This is my first time building a bass or stringed instrument in general, and I don't know much about bridges in particular.
...Or on-board preamps. From my understanding, a preamp is almost necessary for a piezo pickup. I don't recall where I read this and I am unsure of the integrity of the information. Assuming this information is true, what preamp would you guys recommend?
And I believe this is my last question at the moment, and it ties in with the last question, assuming the preamp is not necessary and I can go passive, will these pickups play well with each other?
EDIT: Would covers/casings for the pups that don’t expose the pole pieces stop the clicking of strings hitting them, and if so, where could I find them? I’m currently working on a different technique to pluck them in a way that doesn’t smack the pole pieces, but I’d like this have this as an option anyway.
Here's a really bad mockup I made in PS CS2 of what I imagine the shape would roughly look like if anyone's curious:
And that is all for now. If I find myself having any more questions, I'll edit this post. If any of you guys have any extra input, feel free to fire away with it. Cheers!
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