Plugging and Re-drilling Tuner Holes

Mar 28, 2009
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I have a replacement neck for a Squier CV Jazz bass. it is a cheap Chinese neck. the tuner holes are almost 1/4" too close to the top edge of the headstock and surprise surprise, are unevenly spaced. I would like to plug them, glue down a veneer, and re-drill so the face of the headstock doesn't show the old, plugged holes.

am I headed in the right direction?
 
Paula bass is correct. If at all possible, the plugs should be the same type of wood and grain running the same direction as your new neck. As RBS_Johnson said, you could cut the plugs from the old neck but be aware the plug cutter will probably cut a much larger hole then the diameter of the plug itself so there may not be enough material there. Also, it could be tough to find one that big. Most of the ones in hardware stores are in the 3/16” to maybe 1/2” range. I suppose I’ve never really looked for one in that size range though so they could be easier to find then I’m guessing. I don’t know if that’s something a cabinet shop might be able to do.
 
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so, to take this one step further, I am thinking about sanding down the face, putting the plugs in, gluing a maple veneer over the top and then either trying to match the amber stain of the rest of the neck or doing a matching headstock (bass is oly white) thoughts on this?
 
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so, to take this one step further, I am thinking about sanding down the face, putting the plugs in, gluing a maple veneer over the top and then either trying to match the amber stain of the rest of the neck or doing a matching headstock (bass is oly white) thoughts on this?

If you go the veneer matching amber rout, I would recommend an amber tinted clear lacquer as opposed to a stain. If you don't like the results, you can always go over that with oly white lacquer. If that is the case, then be sure to lightly sand the clear to accept the opaque finish. If you decide to on oly white from the get go, you may be able to skip the veneer depending on how smooth it sands out.
 
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Fender style head stocks require pre-planning to veneer. You need to be able to bend and blend the veneer up into the bottom edge of the fretboard. When I've done it, I cut a bit of a relief under the join, made sure it is square to the fretboard and clean. I bevel the veneer edge to match, letting the veneer butt up against the bottom of the fretboard. Clamping the curve during the glue-up is fun.

I use maple dowels to plug tuner holes. Plugs should fit with med-light finger pressure. If they're too tight, work on them. Then use a sharp forstner bit, you shouldn't have any problems with end grain vs face grain. Tuner plates usually hide the plugs on the back side.

Here is a close shot of the undercut I usually do if I have to plug and veneer a Fender style head stock.
undercut-1200w.jpg


Rick