Possible to light sand / repolish small area of poly?

[direktor]

I just got a Spector that was refinished in poly some years ago. The refinish is pretty good, but there are some masking boo-boos that bug me a little:

One, and the one that bothers me the most, is a line between new and old finish around the 5th fret. I can also feel it with my fingers while playing a little.

Second, is paint up and over the edge of the fingerboard down by 21st fret…not killing me, but it’s a rough mask edge in a place where US Spectors are usually very pretty.

My understanding is that trying to sand these booboos to clean up with something like 500, then 1000, then maybe 2000 can work, but other people have tried the same and never got the gloss back. It’s hard for me to understand having never done it what will happen if I try.

Advice? Can these blemishes be fixed?

 

[Stealth57]

I just got a Spector that was refinished in poly some years ago. The refinish is pretty good, but there are some masking boo-boos that bug me a little:

One, and the one that bothers me the most, is a line between new and old finish around the 5th fret. I can also feel it with my fingers while playing a little.

Second, is paint up and over the edge of the fingerboard down by 21st fret…not killing me, but it’s a rough mask edge in a place where US Spectors are usually very pretty.

My understanding is that trying to sand these booboos to clean up with something like 500, then 1000, then maybe 2000 can work, but other people have tried the same and never got the gloss back. It’s hard for me to understand having never done it what will happen if I try.

Advice? Can these blemishes be fixed?


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500 and 1000 dry. 1500 and 2000 wet. Followed by Meguiar’s #2, #7, and Ultimate Compound. You’ll get a mirror finish.

 

[Max Bogosity]

I'd be tempted to start with a scraper to get the edge of the paint to be sharp and right at the edge of the fingerboard. Your mileage may vary, but I don't have much luck trying to sand to an exact line.

 

[T_Bone_TL]

Absolutely scraping for removing the paint from the fingerboard goof. A razor blade if you don't have a proper scraper handy, held as a scraper (nearly 90 degrees to the surface) and not going too hard. A bit of scrap glass is another option.

 

[WestyBassBob]

Absolutely scraping for removing the paint from the fingerboard goof. A razor blade if you don't have a proper scraper handy, held as a scraper (nearly 90 degrees to the surface) and not going too hard. A bit of scrap glass is another option.

I’m thinking something with a point. Like the tool golfers use to clean out the groves in their irons.

 

[Beej]

Tagging @JIO in case he has any ideas to share. He's done some outstanding fretboard restos and repairs over the years.

 

[JIO]

I would use a fresh #11 exacto-blade knife or a 9mm Olfa snap-blade knife and work slowly. Carefully score a length using a straight-edge and then carefully scrap the overlap paint off.

 

[direktor]

@Stealth57 @Max Bogosity @T_Bone_TL @WestyBassBob @Beej @JIO

Thank you all for your suggestions, truly. I don't mind paying pros for good work, but sometimes a job is so minor I feel like I would be being a nuisance.

So if I understand this right, where the paint covers the fingerboard, the idea should be to score and scrape? I guess this makes more sense now that it's mentioned rather than hitting edge of fingerboard with even 1K or 2K.

Scrape lengthwise along the length of the fingerboard, or scape UP from a lengthwise paint score I make up towards fingerboard surface? The latter makes most sense to me, but awkward.

 

[JIO]

@Stealth57 @Max Bogosity @T_Bone_TL @WestyBassBob @Beej @JIO

Thank you all for your suggestions, truly. I don't mind paying pros for good work, but sometimes a job is so minor I feel like I would be being a nuisance.

So if I understand this right, where the paint covers the fingerboard, the idea should be to score and scrape? I guess this makes more sense now that it's mentioned rather than hitting edge of fingerboard with even 1K or 2K.

Scrape lengthwise along the length of the fingerboard, or scape UP from a lengthwise paint score I make up towards fingerboard surface? The latter makes most sense to me, but awkward.

Once you score the division 'line' - use the blade flat and scrape off lengthwise. The paint should be fairly thin, and will come off easily. Start at the nut and continue toward the heel. Patience is key - stay relaxed and work slowly. Once you see how easy it is - still remain focused until done. (don't get cocky) Now consider this - if you are right handed - start as I said. But if left handed - reverse direction. (heel to nut) And this is the same for the G-side of the fb. If right-handed, start at the heel. If left handed - start at the nut. You want to favor your orientation as you have more instinctual muscle-memory control.

The only time you work against the finish is (as an example) when cleaning up a neck pocket after a re-fin. Using a small tight-tooth file, you file downward toward the base of the heel walls to clean up the top edges. If you did the opposite - you risk lifting the finish there.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

This reminds a bit of learning to scrape binding, though in this case it’s the fingerboard, not binding. Might be a few useful nuggets here. I tried this on a few builds, and it’s harder than it looks. The women (it’s virtually all women) who do it at Gibson have been doing it for years. It’s harder than it looks!