Pure Tung oil finish: how many coats and any tips for glossiest finish?

Jan 27, 2008
1,553
735
4,581
UK
I've decided to finish an alder jazz body in 100% pure tung oil. I'm a bit of a nube to this and chose this method for ease and simplicity. How many coats should i expect to put on? Also any tips for the shiniest/glossiest outcome i can get?

Should i polish with a wax after for more shine or will the oil be enough?
 
Alder is a softer hardwood. It would really benefit from having a poly finish.

If you insist on oiling, the traditional protocol was:

Once a day for a week.
Once a week for a month.
Once a month for a year.

With oil, it is a matter of what makes you happy. Minimum of three coats. Three and three with wet sanding in between is better.

Here is a detailed description of the technique by jazzdogg.

Wax if you like the feel of wax under your thumb. Personally, I think it makes it drag.
 
Alder is a softer hardwood. It would really benefit from having a poly finish.

If you insist on oiling, the traditional protocol was:

Once a day for a week.
Once a week for a month.
Once a month for a year.

With oil, it is a matter of what makes you happy. Minimum of three coats. Three and three with wet sanding in between is better.

Here is a detailed description of the technique by jazzdogg.

Wax if you like the feel of wax under your thumb. Personally, I think it makes it drag.

This.

Ten years ago, I built a parts guitar (swamp ash body), and finished it with Tung Oil. Using the exact method you listed, it took 2 1/2 years before I was satisfied with the finish--but it was worth it.

As far as protecting the finish, once a year or so I wipe it down with Butcher's Wax.
 
This.

Ten years ago, I built a parts guitar (swamp ash body), and finished it with Tung Oil. Using the exact method you listed, it took 2 1/2 years before I was satisfied with the finish--but it was worth it.

As far as protecting the finish, once a year or so I wipe it down with Butcher's Wax.

Is that 2 1/2 yrs for it to cure and settle or 2 1/2 yrs of applying the oil once a month? :eek:
 
Is pure tung oil truly desirable? I have read otherwise. OTOH, I have used gunstock oil which is a mish-mash of several different products and recommended for its extended properties including durability.

Riis
 
Is that 2 1/2 yrs for it to cure and settle or 2 1/2 yrs of applying the oil once a month? :eek:

That was following the "1x day/ week--1x week/month--1x month/year" method. From first to last coat took 2 1/2 years. But as I indicated, my guitar body was swamp ash, which is very porous and absorbent--it soaked up the first several coats of oil like a sponge, so it took a few applications before it started to resemble a "finish". Usually with a porous wood like that, the usual procedure is to use sanding sealer first, but I wanted the wood grain to look as natural as possible.

If you're using alder wood, it shouldn't take as long as it did me.
 
Is pure tung oil truly desirable? I have read otherwise. OTOH, I have used gunstock oil which is a mish-mash of several different products and recommended for its extended properties including durability.

Riis
What is your method of application of the gun stock oil on your instruments? I'm preparing to use Birchwood-Casey oil on an unlined fretless rosewood fingerboard, so any tips would be appreciated.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zooberwerx
What is your method of application of the gun stock oil on your instruments? I'm preparing to use Birchwood-Casey oil on an unlined fretless rosewood fingerboard, so any tips would be appreciated.

Use your fingertips to work it into the surface...don't know exactly why this works better but the process has given me better results than a rag (lint) or applicator pads. A little goes a long way so don't "marinate" the surface. Several thin well-worked coats for the win. A gentle rub-out after each cured coat with a mildly abrasive used ScotchBrite pad evens things out and promotes subsequent coats / applications.

That being said, I'm not sure I'd want to coat a fretless rosewood board...back of neck / body, sure. Sounds like an interesting project but please get a second opinion before proceeding. Tru-oil is not going to hold up for long under the abrasive force of a bass string. Refer: any number of threads addressing oiling rosewood fingerboards.

My favorite finishing wax is BriWax.

Riis
 
Use your fingertips to work it into the surface...don't know exactly why this works better but the process has given me better results than a rag (lint) or applicator pads. A little goes a long way so don't "marinate" the surface. Several thin well-worked coats for the win. A gentle rub-out after each cured coat with a mildly abrasive used ScotchBrite pad evens things out and promotes subsequent coats / applications.

That being said, I'm not sure I'd want to coat a fretless rosewood board...back of neck / body, sure. Sounds like an interesting project but please get a second opinion before proceeding. Tru-oil is not going to hold up for long under the abrasive force of a bass string. Refer: any number of threads addressing oiling rosewood fingerboards.

My favorite finishing wax is BriWax.

Riis
Thanks for the tips. That's in line with what I've read. But sorry for the confusion, I'm using Birchwood-Casey gun stock oil for the fingerboard, not Tru-oil. Alembic uses the gun stock oil to finish their fretless fingerboards also, so it must work well.
 
Thanks for the tips. That's in line with what I've read. But sorry for the confusion, I'm using Birchwood-Casey gun stock oil for the fingerboard, not Tru-oil. Alembic uses the gun stock oil to finish their fretless fingerboards also, so it must work well.

I thought it was all the same stuff. I can't speak with any authority on Alembic's practices. Do they do fretless rosewood boards?

Riis