Hi first post so if I mess anything up please do forgive me.
My dad has a modified Hayakawa Eagle Bass (neck through body) from the 1980s and I think maybe in 2019 the fretboard started lifting (tropical weather so it's terrible for instruments) and we didn't know where to take it so we just kinda left it since my dad's old and he's sorta stopped playing bass. we both decided to try do a home repair since it should be easy enough.
It's sorta been sitting for more than a few years.
I took the fretboard off because it likely meant that all the glue was starting to weaken (according to my dad), and he wants to know how much to adjust the truss rod before regluing the fretboard on since it'll probably need some adjustments after sitting in storage unused then all of a sudden having the strings taken off.
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Also I forgot to add that we're gonna use epoxy on the neck which is why he wants to know because once you get epoxy on, it doesn't come off.
And we're gonna replace all the electronics and tuning machines but that's easy.
 
You want to remove all the tension on the truss rod (i.e., unscrew the nut until it is loose). The fingerboard should have enough flex to follow small deviation from flat. If you leave tension on the truss rod it will push against the fingerboard making it hard to glue.
I would not use epoxy. With epoxy you get one shot at it and if it doesn't work you have ruined the bass on a neck-trough. You also make impossible any future repairs. in a tropical environment, I would suggest a good wood glue like Titebond Original.
 
agreed. that looks like an old compression rod so removing all of the tension is the way. agree on Titebond OG glue.

i would also pluck that rod out and give it a once over. get it nice and clean with a small dab of anti-seize grease where needed and replace any stripped hardware.

don't forget your fingerboard registration pins.
 
There is nothing wrong with using epoxy, it can be separated with heat albeit not as easily as titebond. What it will do is eliminate many of the issues associated with moisture and humidity. Just be sure to use epoxy with a decent working time, ie not the 5-minute type. Something like G2 or West System would work well. Take care not to let it get into the truss rod, and try to clean up the squeeze-out when it has gelled slightly, but before it hardens. Coating the finished surfaces like the back of the neck with paste wax can help protect against the squeeze-out. Good luck, and as others have pointed out, registration pins are very important so you will need to remove a couple of frets to accommodate them. Filling those fret slots with wax would also be a good idea; it is easily removed afterwards.
 
There is nothing wrong with using epoxy, it can be separated with heat albeit not as easily as titebond. What it will do is eliminate many of the issues associated with moisture and humidity. Just be sure to use epoxy with a decent working time, ie not the 5-minute type. Something like G2 or West System would work well.
If the OP were an experienced repair person I would agree. But given the level of heat needed to get epoxy to release and the OP's level of experience, wood glue is a better choice. All your other advice was spot on.
 
ime, the glue line with epoxy can be kinda thick and obvious. it can also be hard to manage and cleanup of buggered surfaces requires chemistry. imo, for the fairly large amount surface area under the fingerboard, it's just not for a first time repair person.
 
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thanks for all the replies guys! sorry I replied late I've been busy. haven't gotten it on just yet primarily because I've been busy with school and competitions and all but also because my dad got stung by some really toxic insect that's put him out of service for the last week so I'll glue it on once he's in full health again.

yet again, thanks for the advice guys I really appreciate it and I'll try to find and use titebond but I don't know what the old man'll think. whatever he says goes since he's a bit old and grumpy now lmao.