Replacing wooden bass case latches

CompleteHack

CompleteHack

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Oct 9, 2024
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#1
Has anyone with a wood bass case (similar to the Fender-branded ones, e.g. Classic Series Cases - Precision Bass®/Jazz Bass® | Accessories) had luck with replacing destroyed latches?

I have such a case that is unbranded, and possibly from the 1980's. I've only had it since the 1990's. The key-lock latches at the far ends of the case are totally shot. Their springloaded latching arms both broke off a long, long time ago, and I never had a key.

The non-locking latch in the middle is the only one that still works. I attached a hasp near the handle, so that I could use a padlock to keep the case closed. Even so, it only barely stays closed.

We have a good luggage repair shop in town that could probably help, but I want to do this one myself.

I did think about buying a brand new case, but they're around $200 new. I have all the tools to do the work, and new latches are cheap. Also, the case has sentimental value.

I've ordered replacement latches, and will be attempting to install them once they get here.

The original latches are riveted in. I suspect this will preclude or at least complicate re-using the holes to install new latches, but TBD.
 
#3
CompleteHack said:
Has anyone with a wood bass case (similar to the Fender-branded ones, e.g. Classic Series Cases - Precision Bass®/Jazz Bass® | Accessories) had luck with replacing destroyed latches?

I have such a case that is unbranded, and possibly from the 1980's. I've only had it since the 1990's. The key-lock latches at the far ends of the case are totally shot. Their springloaded latching arms both broke off a long, long time ago, and I never had a key.

The non-locking latch in the middle is the only one that still works. I attached a hasp near the handle, so that I could use a padlock to keep the case closed. Even so, it only barely stays closed.

We have a good luggage repair shop in town that could probably help, but I want to do this one myself.

I did think about buying a brand new case, but they're around $200 new. I have all the tools to do the work, and new latches are cheap. Also, the case has sentimental value.

I've ordered replacement latches, and will be attempting to install them once they get here.

The original latches are riveted in. I suspect this will preclude or at least complicate re-using the holes to install new latches, but TBD.
Click to expand...

As you noted, the original latches are held in by classic Tubular Rivets. You can buy those rivets and use them if you want to keep the repair looking really original. Tubular Rivets are crimped into place by squeezing them, which flares out the hollow back end against the wood inside. At the factory, they are squeezed with a pneumatic crimping machine. For a home repair, you can crimp them with a big pair of arc-joint pliers or a small C-clamp. Putting a washer over the rivet on the inside before crimping is a good idea. You need to buy rivets that are the right length to go through the latch, the wood, and the washer.

A simpler option is to use Pop Rivets, the kind that clinch by pulling a pin through the center with an inexpensive special tool. Available at any hardware or automotive store. Very quick and easy to install. Not completely original in appearance, but close.

A third option is to bolt the latches on, using 6-32 round head machine screws, and washers and locknuts on the inside. That will work fine and not be very noticeable.

Note: The easiest way to remove the original rivets is to drill them out from the inside. Figure out the right size drill bit that's equal to the OD of the rivet. Drill right into the flared out end. You only have to go in a short distance and the whole flared end will pop off, and the rivet will let go.
 
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#4
Brian Patterson said:
Consider adding a thin metal backer plate inside the case and under the padding to minimize pull through with the new latches, especially if you reuse the existing locations. A simple drilling out of the old rivets and using new ones should be a relatively simple fix. I'd do it for you if you were nearby.
Click to expand...
Thanks, backing plate is a great idea. Appreciate the offer, but I'm in Albuquerque, NM so not exactly next door.
 
#5
Bruce Johnson said:
A third option is to bolt the latches on, using 6-32 round head machine screws, and washers and locknuts on the inside. That will work fine and not be very noticeable.

Note: The easiest way to remove the original rivets is to drill them out from the inside. Figure out the right size drill bit that's equal to the OD of the rivet. Drill right into the flared out end. You only have to go in a short distance and the whole flared end will pop off, and the rivet will let go.
Click to expand...
Option #3 is what I plan to do. Original appearance is pretty much out the window - I need to post a photo of the case.

I don't have anything against rivets as such, but have not worked with them before & am more comfortable with screws.

I already pretty much ruined the case's "originality" by attaching a padlock hasp near the middle. That was my fix for not having the key to the one, remaining locking latch that still worked when I got the case. It was purchased heavily-used - in 1995 or 1996.

The latches I bought come with screws, but I think they're wood screws. If I can find some suitable thin sheets of metal, I'll use them to back the repair & replace the wood screws with appropriate machine screws & nuts.

I should likely reinforce the handle attachment while I'm in there, or at least look at it.

Thanks to all for the advice!
 
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#6
Latches are here, but they're flimsy-looking, won't mount properly, and are not worth bothering with further.

I'll try again soon, maybe with these latches:

Loading…

guitarandampparts.com

I've emailed the vendor to ask for a view of the backside of the latches so I can understand better how they're built and how they would attach.
 

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#7
I've been conversing with Mr. Sheehan of guitarrandampparts.com via email regarding repair options.

Already learned a couple of things:

1) The original locking latches that have broken are "Cheney" style. That's the type with the round thingy that slides to one side to release the latch, and a keyhole in the center of the round thingy.

These came in a few slightly different variants over the decades, so you can't replace only the broken latching arm side, usually, you gotta swap the whole thing.


2) Replacement Cheney latches can be hard to find.

It's a good thing I wasn't set on restoring original appearance. Looks like that would be a huge effort.


I've considered throwing the case out, & getting a new one in the same style, like the Fender wood bass case. But nah. I can't convince myself to spend $200 on a new case that has the same problems as the old.

For one, the handle is too small and not padded even a little. I feel like I need a shoulder strap that would maybe attach to the ends of the case, if I'm moving it much distance.

For another, the metal "feet" on the bottom and ends are a PITA. I have to be really careful at home not to scratch the mess out of furniture with them.

For a third, the thing is fairly heavy.

Fender does make a more "modern" plastic bass case that improves some or all of these things, but it has a dumb "TSA" lock built into the center latch. I don't like paying premium price for an item where I'll want to modify it immediately.

I suppose I could get a padded gig bag and be done with it. I don't travel with my bass anyway.
 
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#8
Aaaah, just go to the hardware store and buy two draw latches, a bag of pop rivets and a setter, and a bag of pop rivet backup washers to fit the rivets. You'll have to pull the inner lining away from the shell a bit to put the backup washers in there. 10 minutes and you're done.

Locks on musical instrument cases are a total waste of time, if anyone wants to steal your instrument they'll just pick up the case and wallk off.
 
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#9
turf3 said:
Locks on musical instrument cases are a total waste of time, if anyone wants to steal your instrument they'll just pick up the case and wallk off.
Click to expand...
This is exactly why I don't care about replacing the broken Cheney latches & would rather have plain latches.

Much like locking lug nuts on cars, Yet Another Set of Keys is almost certain to be more of a PITA to me, as the legitimate owner, than to a thief.

I also don't want latches with a loop for a padlock, same reasoning. Local hardware stores don't stock anything useful, which is why I have to order suitable latches.
 
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#10
Turf3's got the right idea. The replacement latches that you get from guitar supply places are just cheap copies of already cheap designs.

If you aren't concerned about keeping the case original, there are all kinds of latches available which are much stronger and better design. Pick ones that you like and attach them with bolts or rivets. It's not Rocket Surgery.
 
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#11
FWIW, here are some photos of the beat-up old case:
vlkRSwjl.jpeg


EHxkOw5l.jpeg

I could not get the latches I really wanted, without driving an hour away to another town, so I settled for what a local Ace had in stock. They'll be an upgrade, regardless. Got all the nuts and screws and such & will do the install later.
 
#13
Thanks, it's worked OK aside from both of the end latches falling apart.

As a case, it's more looks than practical, at least if you want to go anywhere with it. Yes, the protection afforded to one's bass is great, but the case is heavy, and the handle is awful.

I've considered getting a nice padded gig bag instead, although that would be a bit silly as I never have any "gigs."

Salvaging replacement latches from an old suitcase would be a big effort. Not worth it. As stated, I don't want the locking function of the Cheney-style latches, anyway.

I'll go with the hardware store latches. Might get to it end of next week, & have something to show.
 
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#14
Dz6VOGQl.jpeg

Got both of the hardware store latches installed.

I didn't actually want padlock loops on the new latches, but that's what they had in stock around here.

It's not pretty, but it works.

I still need to glue/somehow secure the lining back to the inner wall of the case behind the main part of each latch, and purchase longer screws so I can put nuts on the inner ends of the upper-half-of-latch screws.
 
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