All front and back patterns I can find show a roughly 1/4 inch overlap of the ribs by the front and back plates. This seems like an invitation for a chip or split. Is there an acoustic reason for this type joint?
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Double Bass Research Continues
- Thread starter Ned Smith
- Start date
None that I know of, but there may be a luthier/repair reason. How much more difficult would it be to remove that top or back, CLEANLY, without that overlap/overhang as a guide?
Let's say that, for some reason, the bass's top plate warps (it happens!). Without a little extra around the edge, it might be near impossible to match it to the ribs should a seam split.
As the others here have pointed out, removal of the DB's top is vastly easier because of the overhang. And the overhang does give some added friction to hang onto when schlepping the DB.
That said, yes, chips, splits, delaminations in ply-tops, and many other possible wear related maladies do happen as a result of the overhang. There are bumpers available to help avoid this on the lay-down-on-the-ground side of the DB, but it does still happen, especially to DBs that encounter rough treatment.
But better to wear the overhang than to wear the ribs or to wear the actual top/rib joint area.
I think some German/Austrian basses don't have that overlap. I have seen one or two in person. I worry that without the overhang, anything that happens along the edge is going to damage the both the plate and the rib, rather than just that outside edge.
Flush-ribbed basses aren't real popular with the luthiers I know. They're a thing in Vienna for sure, though.
The overhang offers a sudden of “forgiveness,” when reassembling an instrument. Wood being inherently unstable, due to its habit of changing shape with humidity variations, it is nice to know I can get things close enough to look right, retouch the varnish and everyone will be happy.
A flush-edged instrument is not so easy.
A flush-edged instrument is not so easy.
Yup -- don't mess with tradition on your first build. In fact, you might want to try a violin kit first to get used to gluing, clamping, scraping, finishing etc.
Like this one. Fiddle Kit - StewMac
After installing the purfling, I'd maybe try taking the top off as an exercise.
Like this one. Fiddle Kit - StewMac
After installing the purfling, I'd maybe try taking the top off as an exercise.
I've seen plenty of basses with external linings, but I am curious, are they wide enough to make interior linings superfluous? I wasn't sure if this was a visual element or a structural one.
Just a guess here, but I would say the interior linings are to increase the gluing surface for the top and back, while the exterior linings are to help the rib garland maintain shape.
I think it's either inside or outside linings, not both. But there is no reason why not to do double linings either other than the gluing surface would be significantly greater which in itself could be a problem. You'd have to use really thin weak hide glue with double linings.
I was under the impression there are always inside linings. Outside linings are a bonus. I can double check a few of my basses, but I'm pretty sure all of the ones with outer linings also have inner linings.
If we consider the interior kerfing to be linings (and I do), then all basses have (or should) inside linings.
The only basses I have built have inside linings only.
“Kerfing” refers to the linings in guitars, which have multiple transverse saw cuts to facilitate bending and allowing more substantial linings.
The linings in violin-family instruments do NOT have the saw-kerfs, but are heat-bent full thickness.
Just a technical point from a maker… probably everyone already knows it.
“Kerfing” refers to the linings in guitars, which have multiple transverse saw cuts to facilitate bending and allowing more substantial linings.
The linings in violin-family instruments do NOT have the saw-kerfs, but are heat-bent full thickness.
Just a technical point from a maker… probably everyone already knows it.
And Gibson and Gretsch both sold basses under their own brand, and Epiphone in fact did make basses. Anybody checked any of those to get some clarity re linings?