i want to build a p bass with just one pickup, would it be possible to create the tone circuit with the dual outputs from a ric on a p bass and how?
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ric o sound replica
- Thread starter squiershredder
- Start date
Here is the schematic for a 4003:
http://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/19557.pdf
C3 is the capacitor that gets engaged when you put the push/pull pot in the Vintage position.
http://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/19557.pdf
C3 is the capacitor that gets engaged when you put the push/pull pot in the Vintage position.
By definition Ric-o-sound refers to having a two pickup system that enables you to route each pup to a seperate amp. You could do this on each half of a P pickup, but there doesn’t seem much point in doing that (even as a Rick owner, I’ve experimented with a dual amp setup and concluded that it’s not really worth the additional complexity and gear to lug about)
As for the switch...On 4001 basses, the bridge pup had a 0.0047 capacitor in series with the tone control. This acted as a high pass filter, rolling off the lower frequencies and only letting higher frequencies through. This was designed to add more definition when flatwound strings were the only game in town, but the result was that the bridge pup sounded thin and subjectively much quieter (with a bunch of the note’s fundamental frequencies stripped away). It did sound good when you used both pickups with the neck pickup backed off a bit and that, to some people is the quintessential Ric tone (of course with a twin amp setup you could also balance the volume and EQ for each pup, rather than backing the neck pickup off). Some people, me included, really didn’t like the tone sucking cap and either removed it or bypassed it to get a full fat bridge pup. I think Ric must’ve been listening because the 4003 came out of the factory without that cap....but then, some people hankered after the ‘vintage’ 4001 sound, so they added the cap again, but put a pull switch in So that you could switch it in or out.
You could do that on a P pickup, but again, why would anyone want to install a system on a single pup bass that made it sound thin and weedy?
As for the switch...On 4001 basses, the bridge pup had a 0.0047 capacitor in series with the tone control. This acted as a high pass filter, rolling off the lower frequencies and only letting higher frequencies through. This was designed to add more definition when flatwound strings were the only game in town, but the result was that the bridge pup sounded thin and subjectively much quieter (with a bunch of the note’s fundamental frequencies stripped away). It did sound good when you used both pickups with the neck pickup backed off a bit and that, to some people is the quintessential Ric tone (of course with a twin amp setup you could also balance the volume and EQ for each pup, rather than backing the neck pickup off). Some people, me included, really didn’t like the tone sucking cap and either removed it or bypassed it to get a full fat bridge pup. I think Ric must’ve been listening because the 4003 came out of the factory without that cap....but then, some people hankered after the ‘vintage’ 4001 sound, so they added the cap again, but put a pull switch in So that you could switch it in or out.
You could do that on a P pickup, but again, why would anyone want to install a system on a single pup bass that made it sound thin and weedy?
Use KBDs recommendation or ABY box and 2 different amps; one voiced more for highs
It’s a lot of trouble and extra work for a tone that no one but (some) bass players will enjoy However I was pleased when I ran my Ric stereo ; band mates just thought it was much ado about nothing
It’s a lot of trouble and extra work for a tone that no one but (some) bass players will enjoy However I was pleased when I ran my Ric stereo ; band mates just thought it was much ado about nothing
If you go the cheap route with a Y-splitter, plug the male end into the first amp, then you won't have two instrument cables dangling out of your instrument.