SansAmp Bass Driver DI, extremely hot?

LowRenzo

LowRenzo

Jul 3, 2014
496
1,042
4,891
33
The Hague
#1
Fellow TBers,

I recently sold my VT Bass DI to go back to the Bass Driver DI now that it has a mid-control (owned the previous version and switched to the VT Bass DI because of the dedicated mid control), and I have to say tonally it's perfect for me. Feels and sounds like coming home.

There's just this one thing: It's EXTREMELY hot. I don't have it set to any absurd values, yet at my gig last night I had to pad the XLR out, even though my level was set to only 10 o'clock, and when I turn off the level knob, some signal still bleeds through. Heck, I don't even need to engage the +10 boost to drive a power-amp.

Anyone else share similar experiences with the BDDI V2? Hoping it's just Tech21 overcompensating for the previous BDDI not always having enough juice :roflmao: ...
 
#3
tech21nyc said:
When you say the unit is too "hot" what are the settings and what are you plugging into?
Click to expand...

Hello tech21, thanks for the swift reply!

My settings are very tame, as the BDDI is set to be my clean sound.

20171018_191056.jpg
I've included an image to clarify, hope that's alright.

With these exact settings, there is still some bleed with the level turned off. The sound is plenty clean, hardly a hint of drive or grit, but the overall signal is just much louder than what I'm used to from my previous version BDDI, and my VT Bass DI.

The fact that the signal is clean but still bleeds with the level turned down completely is what has me stumped.
 
#5
ddnidd1 said:
The other information asked for was 'What are you plugging the Sansamp into'.
Click to expand...

Inbetween stuff, immediately forgot to mention that.

Plugging into the same Behringer Xenyx interface I've been using for over a year, and at my gig last night I plugged into the same mixing board I plugged into many times before, both of which have seen the VTDI without any bleed coming from the pedal. Because that's where the peculiarity lies for me.

I have a lot of experience using the previous version BDDI, and the VT Bass DI, and I can say with certainty that the problem doesn't lie with what I'm plugging into. The bleed when the level on the pedal itself is completely down is a pretty good indication that the pedal itself might just be wired hotter than the previous BDDI and the VTDI, or my unit might be 'faulty'.

The output being high is not a problem for me personally at all, but I at least want to make sure the pedal is working as it should.

So, to clarify: The pedal itself is bleeding signal when the level on it is turned down completely, and it happens even with the relatively mild settings shown above. What I'm plugging into is of no consequence because it is identical to what I used with other tech21 pedals and this problem did not occur with those pedals :D.
 
#6
It's hard to see from your picture. It looks like you're using the XLR output. Do you have the Pad engaged? You should be able to set the pedal for unity gain. This means that the signal with the effect engaged is at the same level when the unit is bypassed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LowRenzo
#8
tech21nyc said:
It's hard to see from your picture. It looks like you're using the XLR output. Do you have the Pad engaged? You should be able to set the pedal for unity gain. This means that the signal with the effect engaged is at the same level when the unit is bypassed.
Click to expand...

I have the pad engaged when needed, yes.
Finding unity gain is fortunately not an issue; I just arrive at unity gain much sooner on the dial than before.

Finally had some time, so I went to a store to directly compare my BDDI to another one.

Ran into the exact same 'quirks', so it's all just simply the way the new model BDDI is wired. It's a powerful little pedal, basically.

Not at all unhappy with this pedal, but just wanted to make sure my BDDI was working as intended, which it apparently is!

The previous version definitely needed some cranking, depending on settings, so this new version having juice to spare is really not a bad thing :p.
 
#9
It sounds like possibly you had an older Bass Driver DI. In V1 before the level switch was added the XLR output was always padded down. When you use the XLR into a board there is also the input trim on the board to consider. If you use the 1/4" output directly to an amp with the boost off you should be able to have the same level in bypass as you would with your instrument plugged directly in.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LowRenzo
#10
tech21nyc said:
It sounds like possibly you had an older Bass Driver DI. In V1 before the level switch was added the XLR output was always padded down. When you use the XLR into a board there is also the input trim on the board to consider. If you use the 1/4" output directly to an amp with the boost off you should be able to have the same level in bypass as you would with your instrument plugged directly in.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies!

I had the version with the switches, but I just realised my output might've been a lot lower on the previous version because of the way the EQ worked; I used to cut a LOT of treble and bass to create a mid-based sound, which also drastically cut into the overall output level.

It's a keeper, just ran into a highly unexpected little learning curve, haha.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back