Speaker box config Question

[iriegnome]

I am doing a rehab on a 4x10 speaker cabinet. I am installing 4 - 10" speakers each rated at 110w RMS and each speaker is at 8Ohms. I plan to wire the 4 speakers in parallel to keep the box at 8Ohms. In doing this, how many watts will the whole cabinet be rated at when it is complete?

 

[Redbrangus]

4 X 8-ohm speakers in parallel is a 2-ohm total load. You'll need to do a series/parallel combination to get an 8-ohm cab.

 

[iriegnome]

Sorry, I misspoke. I will be hooking the speakers in Series/Parallel to keep the box at 8Ohms.

 

[JimChjones]

Whichever way the box is wired up (excluding something undesirable) the nominal power handling would be 440W.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Do the T/S params of the new drivers jive with the interior size of the box and the port (if present?)

 

[S-Bigbottom]

If the box is not good for the speakers the numbers on the magnet means nothing, as you can blow them at even 1/3rd of that number. Depending...
Much more info is needed.

 

[iriegnome]

Don't care on the exact numbers. Estimated numbers are just fine. It seems safe to assume that the approximate wattage for the cab would be just the combined speaker rating? Rough guess since each driver is 110w (yes the cab it rear ported) about 440w (give or take) without doing extensive math, measurements and all the rest to be exactly perfect in ratings and whatnot? This is a pay it forward project that I am donating to a new bass player friend who needs bass gear and I am in a position to help. So exact wattage handling capabilities are not a worry. A modest 200/250w head will do just fine on top of this cabinet and will work perfectly for their needs. Thanks for the help

 

[Jim Carr]

Was it an Eden 410 or a Goliath I or II?

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Do the T/S params of the new drivers jive with the interior size of the box and the port (if present?)

Let’s re-phrase that. A random speaker in a box is not the way to go here. Every driver manufactured today has a mathematical description of its performance characteristics known as it’s Thiele/Small Parameters. That tells you what sort of performance and limitations to expect with respect to the interior volume of the enclosure and associated ports (if any). IOW, it’s more than merely placing a driver in a box.

Any speaker will make sound, but unless you follow the params, you have no idea what to expect as far as frequency response goes, what the low end extension will be, if you’ll need to high-pass it, power handling characteristics at higher SPLs, etc.

Vendors like Eminence publish a set of baseline/generic cab enclosure volumes for each driver, and if you wish, you can plug the provided T/S params into a speaker design freeware called WinSD to see what else may work based on your goals.

 

[agedhorse]

Don't care on the exact numbers. Estimated numbers are just fine. It seems safe to assume that the approximate wattage for the cab would be just the combined speaker rating? Rough guess since each driver is 110w (yes the cab it rear ported) about 440w (give or take) without doing extensive math, measurements and all the rest to be exactly perfect in ratings and whatnot? This is a pay it forward project that I am donating to a new bass player friend who needs bass gear and I am in a position to help. So exact wattage handling capabilities are not a worry. A modest 200/250w head will do just fine on top of this cabinet and will work perfectly for their needs. Thanks for the help

You may not care, but that doesn't change the fact that the "110 watt" rating of the drivers may in fact be less than 50 watts in a poorly or incorrectly tuned box. It's what you don't understand that will define the performance of the speaker. (hint, your assumption is incorrect)

Are you asking for help here, or are you telling us that you already know it all and just want confirmation that you know what you are doing?

 

[abarson]

I appreciate the idea of paying things forward. You have good intentions that might backfire if the speakers are inappropriate for the cabinet.

People here are knowledgeable and willing to help. If you provide the make and model of the cabinet and speakers, they can provide useful feedback as to whether they are good matches.

 

[S-Bigbottom]

This is a pay it forward project that I am donating to a new bass player friend who needs bass gear and I am in a position to help. So exact wattage handling capabilities are not a worry. A modest 200/250w head will do just fine on top of this cabinet and will work perfectly for their needs. Thanks for the help

No point in giving this to someone if it can blow at a very modest rate, like well below that 200 mark you mention if them speakers are installed in the wrong box.

The world is full of failed speaker swaps, don't give something that may not preform as expected.

I always hated it when someone gave my kids them really cheap cars as a gift, then after a few minutes of play the wheels broke off. They were better off not getting a gift.

 

[agedhorse]

I always hated it when someone gave my kids them really cheap cars as a gift, then after a few minutes of play the wheels broke off. They were better off not getting a gift.

Kind of like a free horse, the gif that keeps on taking

 

[basscooker]

Wait, I promise I'm not trying to start anything, but I could swear OP has posted similarly before. If I'm mistaken, my bad.

OP the box and speakers make a system. They need to work together; ports as well need to be a certain length respective to diameter. I say don't move forward YET. We need to know more info to help you succeed.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Do you have a cost in mind? The lowest price Eminence 10” is around $70. So you’ll be at least $280 into the project. And that assumes that that model will operate properly in the size of cab you have. Some 10” drivers run $140 or more.

Have you considered a used 410? It seems people are practically giving away heavy cabs now-a-days.

 

[Hasty]

Have you considered a used 410? It seems people are practically giving away heavy cabs now-a-days.

True story! I sold a great Ampeg SVT 410 cab last year for $225. It sat on Craigslist, Facebook, and Reverb forever. This thing was in amazing condition, but it seems like no one wants them.

 

[agedhorse]

True story! I sold a great Ampeg SVT 410 cab last year for $225. It sat on Craigslist, Facebook, and Reverb forever. This thing was in amazing condition, but it seems like no one wants them.

This is a great example of why many manufacturers have discontinued their larger, heavier amps and cabinets. You are essentially giving it away, it can't be built for that price IME.

 

[SteveIII]

This is a great example of why many manufacturers have discontinued their larger, heavier amps and cabinets. You are essentially giving it away, it can't be built for that price IME.

Having just gone through this exercise I will second that. Not that @agedhorse needs my somewhat unprofessional opinion. I just built a 1x15 with a 1" compression driver. Single cap just to protect from dc (ie no passive crossover). Both drivers were on clearance and I already had the plywood and tolex. I still have over 300 cad not including labour for building and design time. I walked into the local store this week and they had a gk 410 neo for 500. I was mildly frustrated to say the least. I had fun doing it, but used quality cabs in good shape are the cheapest route.

 

[agedhorse]

How did you use a compression driver (successfully) without a cap that does more than protect from D.C.???

 

[SteveIII]

How did you use a compression driver (successfully) without a cap that does more than protect from D.C.???

Active crossover in the gk700rb-ii is set to 5k. Cap is just there to prevent turn on and off noises from getting through. It means I can only use the cab with gk amps, but that's also all I have. I was just suggesting that a proper passive crossover would have cost more