There are some threads about this already, but all seemed obsolete. I'm about to do my first ever string change on a Schecter Stiletto Custom and dear I say it, we play in drop C tuning. I guess the originals are EB extra long slinkies 045-105. I am not willing to go much thicker because I kinda like the feel I have at the moment. Even the sound was ok. The C is not perfect, but still doable so maybe 110 or 115 maximum. I don't like really thick cables and the sound is not consistent with such a setup on the basses I've tried. I've heard a great deal about Markley Blue Steels especially for rock and metal, but again I'm new to bass so maybe someone knows better with maybe a similar axe or tuning.
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What exactly do you want to be different about a new set of strings compared to the ones you're using now?
Besides a slightly heavier C?
It sounds like you are satisfied with the feel and sound of your current ones.
Mostly the C could be a bit stiffer. I am also a bot curious about the difference different strings have in the tension and durability department. A local music dealer said that I can go with 110 without having to adjust the sadle. Maybe even 115? There has neen some comments about 115 beeing a good compromise.
Any time you change to a different thickness of string you have to make small intonation adjustments so you'll be in tune up the neck.
It takes 2 minutes with a screwdriver and a good tuner to set one string. Don't be intimidated.
Sounds like your best bet would be to put together a custom set from single strings with a .115 C.
Maybe start with the Ernie Balls to make sure you like that gauge and then try a different brand next time. That way you're only changing one thing at a time.
I made a custom set of SIT powerwounds singles in .115 .90 .70 .50 for D standard and drop C. They feel great on my 35" scale Peavey Millennium. I went with Nickel plated steel to baby the frets but Stainless Steels might feel stiffer if your looking for a tighter feel on a 34" scale.
You don't have to file the saddle for anything. Strings go over it.
I didn't have to, but I could imagine tight nuts being a problem in chilly Finland
Can't really say until you try it. If the string doesn't lay in the slot and slide easily you might have to widen it a little.
Good news is you won't have to do it much. You can basically saw the new string back and forth in the slot.
Just make sure you don't go deeper, only wider. Make a pencil mark in the bottom of the slot and don't sand it away.
I have a band that plays in C standard so I slapped on a set for a 5 string and just ditched the G. The B only has to be sharped a half step. Not sure if that's of any use but it might help?
TBH a 0.115" will barely work for C
it will, but you'll probably need to pluck near the bridge & it will be floppy compared to the rest of the strings, assuming your Drop C = C G C F
If you get sympathetic vibrations at the nut after going back to smaller gauge, you can fill the nut & re-file the slots:
it will, but you'll probably need to pluck near the bridge & it will be floppy compared to the rest of the strings, assuming your Drop C = C G C F
If you get sympathetic vibrations at the nut after going back to smaller gauge, you can fill the nut & re-file the slots:
I chose to throw on a set of power slinkies. They made a huge difference. Maybe a 115 could do better with the low C but the 110 is so much better than the old 105. I did not even need to adjust anything on the bass. I could only guess that the settings went a bit of with the old strings and new tuning and now it got back to the way it originally was.