Trouble with saddle height adjustment screws

[mjmeche]

Fender Mustang PJ the saddle height screws vibrated down. had put some vaseline because it's thick. But it dropped down again last night. This is only on the E string. How to alleviate the problem

 

[Thespis]

Clear nail polish.

 

[bholder]

vaseline is a lubricant, wipe that off. some loctite will keep them from falling.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Clear polish or, preferably, blue loctite. Here's the trick...

Once applied to the threads, re-insert and return to the near-normal position. Now, using your hex key, rotate the screw back 'n forth 360 degrees until the the assembly starts to squeak....usually takes a minute or two. This will prevent any slippage but allow for future adjustment. I got this from Turnaround.

You can also lightly deform the the threads with your needle-nose pliers.

Riis

 

[Stumbo]

Clear silicon caulk or Weldbond adhesive.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Clear silicon caulk or Weldbond adhesive.

Negative....great product, wrong application. Should be used to seal the control cavity cover to keep the bassy goodness from leaking out.

Riis

 

[saltydude]

Loctite is designed to "lock" the treads. Not stiffen them up so it doesn't move as easy. I usually use a wrap of teflon tape in these sorts of applications.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Loctite is designed to "lock" the treads. Not stiffen them up so it doesn't move as easy. I usually use a wrap of teflon tape in these sorts of applications.

The green and red will do just that...lock the threads to the point you have to heat the assembly to free the components. If you follow the steps outlined in post #4, the process will "gum up" the works just enough to prevent the inadvertent slippage described by the OP.

 

[saltydude]

The green and red will do just that...lock the threads to the point you have to heat the assembly to free the components. If you follow the steps outlined in post #4, the process will "gum up" the works just enough to prevent the inadvertent slippage described by the OP.

Perhaps. I'm not a luthier but I've used loctite in many applications. Yes the blue will loosen without applying heat but it's intended purpose is still to lock threads. It might help the situation, but the saddles are designed to be adjusted. The loctite will eventually dry out and fall out in little pieces when you move them in the future. Hey just my 2c. Good luck.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Perhaps. I'm not a luthier but I've used loctite in many applications. Yes the blue will loosen without applying heat but it's intended purpose is still to lock threads. It might help the situation, but the saddles are designed to be adjusted. The loctite will eventually dry out and fall out in little pieces when you move them in the future. Hey just my 2c. Good luck.

Used it for years as described and never had a problem. The saddles remain adjustable. When applied as described, it locks nothing but rather fills the void between the opposing threads. Don't know if the same process works with clear nail polish...I always have blue Loctite on hand. The thread "crimp" also works by creating a greater thread-to-thread contact.

Here's an earlier in-depth discussion on the matter: Loose screws?

Riis

 

[Turnaround]

The loctite will eventually dry out and fall out in little pieces when you move them in the future.

It takes years for this to happen, then a re-application is good for another decade or two.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Should have addressed this earlier as a prerequisite:

Make sure your saddles are square / parallel with the bridge base plate. Tilting or leaning each saddle to match the fretboard radius is not a good idea and may contribute to the likelihood of slippage.

Riis