Tru-Oil Quesn. ... Final Gloss Coat to Satin Finish?

dregsfan

dregsfan

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Sep 13, 2006
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#1
I've been using 0000 steel wool in between coats of Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil.

For the final "de-gloss" step, is there a different/better method other than (or in addition to) the steel wool to get a nice looking Satin finish?

I had considered using BC's Stock Sheen & Conditioner, but I was cautioned about using a product with silicone in it. (Thanks Beej)

Thanks for any input!
 
#2
I've tried other methods of making a satin sheen, and good 'ol steel wool still gives me the best results. Yeah, it's a little messy, but it makes an even sheen down into any grain troughs that aren't fully filled. The fine (light grey) Scotchbrite also works pretty well with no mess, but the #0000 steel wool is better.
 
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#3
Thanks Bruce.
I don't mind using the steel wool since the parts are not assembled (no magnets). I use paper towel under the piece and then blow it off outside with a air compressor.

You hear about some folks using a wax or something afterwards. Anyone know anything about that. (Though it won't bother me to not need another step.)
 
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#4
On my necks I've been doing Tru Oil, then knock the shine down with 0000 steel wool, then add two coats of paste wax and polish it up. The finish is somewhere between matte and gloss, but man does it feel great. I haven't done a whole body like this yet, I usually just use Tru Oil and don't knock down the shine on the body.
 
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#7
I will just echo what is above. I use 0000 steel wool after the final coat and then follow it up with a coat or two of wax. I use Zymol but, really, anything with carnuba and beeswax will get you where you want. I find the neck is a little sticky without the wax.
 
#12
My wax preference is butcher's bowling alley wax - carnauba (and turps to make it apply reasonably, which evaporates) but no abrasives (as some floor waxes have.) I use the clear, not being fond of added ambering (personal taste.)

You can always steel-wool or scotchbrite the wax after it hardens (once the solvent leaves) if you want a more-matte finish.
 
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#14
A gray (ultra fine) Scotchbrite pad works great. I find it works better than steel wool. On most clear finishes, you can use 1000 or 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper too. Not sure if Truoil will clog the paper, but can't hurt to try it. Also, I wouldn't put wax on it if you want a satin finish. I don't put anything on mine.
 
#16
Thumpin6string said:
A gray (ultra fine) Scotchbrite pad works great. I find it works better than steel wool. On most clear finishes, you can use 1000 or 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper too. Not sure if Truoil will clog the paper, but can't hurt to try it. Also, I wouldn't put wax on it if you want a satin finish. I don't put anything on mine.
Click to expand...

The grey 3m pads are equivalent to 00 steel wool, about 400 grit sand paper. That is what B&C recommend to take back the finish for another coat. I use the 3M when I am adding another coat but my final step is 0000 steel wool. Either one will get you where you want, just the 3m will get you there faster. (Tru-oil will clog the paper but not enough to worry about.) In my experience, adding wax will not add a gloss coat to your neck but it will remove the little bit of tack that is left. Look at oiled Stingrays, they do not have a gloss coat. My hands can really notice the difference between just oil and oil and wax so I feel it is necessary. As they say though, to each their own.
 

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