Vintage Fender Tuners. VERY Stiff

ric4682

ric4682

Supporting Member
Jul 2, 2008
1,462
1,580
5,119
#1
I recently picked up a 1973 Jazz bass that I totally love, but the tuners are very stiff and difficult to turn at times. There's been times where I've had to use both hands to turn it and I know that can't be right. I'd really love to keep the original tuners.
How can I go about lubricating them or loosening them up without loosing tuning stability?
 
#4
James Simonson said:
You might be able to shorten the string slightly and get the shaft to sit in a better sweet spot because once the strings are settled the shaft is not making full rotations from that spot. Meaning, the tuner might turn better at certain points in the rotation.
Click to expand...

Do you mean using less winds around the post when restringing?
 
#5
James Simonson said:
No I mean using just slightly less than what is there now to put the shaft in a better part of it's rotation.

I bet when you turn the tuner with no string on it, it's still stiff but will get easy and then stiff again. It depends where it is in the rotation.

That shaft is maybe 1.5 inches in diameter so that is the variable length you can experiment with.
Click to expand...

Ahhhh, I definitely see what you're saying now. Just trim a tiny amount off the string so it tunes at the "sweet spot" so to speak.
 
#6
Those tuners have a plating that oxidizes and eventually makes normal use basically impossible if left unadressed for several years. A thorough cleaning with with metal polish - including the headstock ferrules - will functionally bring the tuners to working order, but will likely get rid of some of the natural patina. This could be a concern for collectors/resale value. More gentle cleaning methods can get rid of the extra oxidation and open up the gears to working right.
 
#7
inanimate_carb said:
Those tuners have a plating that oxidizes and eventually makes normal use basically impossible if left unadressed for several years. A thorough cleaning with with metal polish - including the headstock ferrules - will functionally bring the tuners to working order, but will likely get rid of some of the natural patina. This could be a concern for collectors/resale value. More gentle cleaning methods can get rid of the extra oxidation and open up the gears to working right.
Click to expand...

Definitely get in there and clean them. Then apply some graphite powder when you reassemble to keep things moving smoothly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pilgrim
#9
ric4682 said:
Is graphite powder pretty easy to find? Is it messy? How long can I expect it to last before I have to reapply?
Click to expand...

It's available at any hardware store in the lock and key section. Or online. It's meant for putting into sticky keyholes.

It can be kind of messy of you use too much, but washes off your hands very easily.

It lasts as long as it lasts. I usually use a tiny bit whenever I change strings on anything with exposed gears. Also good for keeping nut slots from binding.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hoochie Coochie Man
#10
lz4005 said:
It's available at any hardware store in the lock and key section. Or online. It's meant for putting into sticky keyholes.

It can be kind of messy of you use too much, but washes off your hands very easily.

It lasts as long as it lasts. I usually use a tiny bit whenever I change strings on anything with exposed gears. Also good for keeping nut slots from binding.
Click to expand...

Awesome! That's very helpful. I'll be trying some out tonight.
 
#12
Let's be complete about this...
Take the tuners off the bass
Get a screwdriver, find a clear workspace, and disassemble them onto the table.
It's a plate, a gear, a screw, and the key, right? Scrub out the gunk from behind the gear, in the gears and meshing teeth. Maybe a toothbrush and paper towels with some household cleaner. Old filings in the crud will continue to make them get worse if you don't address it.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Jeff Scott and lz4005
#13
Well I bought some graphite lubricant and completely disassembled the E string tuner. Bad news... It seems the friction is occurring on the plate of the tuner where the part you grab is attached. There's no way to remove that or get graphite into it.
Looks like I'm buying so new shiny tuners to put on my dirty old bass. I'm thinking Hipshot Lollipop HB2's. Any other recommendations?
 
#14
Graphite will infiltrate if you work the tuner after applying it. You will waste some, but it wipes off. Not a certain solution, but a very low cost option that's worth a try. If you want an option, spray some silicone into the can't cap, take a toothpick and apply a drop (one drop, no more) to the edge of the rotating gear. It should wick under. Don't get silicone on the finish of your instrument.
 
#16
Pilgrim said:
Graphite will infiltrate if you work the tuner after applying it. You will waste some, but it wipes off. Not a certain solution, but a very low cost option that's worth a try. If you want an option, spray some silicone into the can't cap, take a toothpick and apply a drop (one drop, no more) to the edge of the rotating gear. It should wick under. Don't get silicone on the finish of your instrument.
Click to expand...

I didn't have any silicon spray to try out, but I did try working the graphite into the tuners and it didn't seem to do anything. I worked the tuner for a good 5 minutes of constant turning.

JGbassman said:
I have some deoxit d100 that works very well on electrical pots, getting rid of the sticky scratchy feeling due to oxidation. The bottle that has the needle applicator would work well for getting the cleaner/lubricant in where it belongs. It's very good at wicking into hard to reach places and is very good at unsticking frozen parts.
Click to expand...

I'll have to give that stuff a try!
 
#17
I get what op is saying:

Vintage Klusons have half hoop retainers that hold the keys on the plate. The corrosion is inside there. I would set them in a bath of penetrating oil for several days, then get some of yhose little brass brushes or similar that acetylene welders use and scrub loose matter from under the hoops.

I would then melt paraffin wax add a little graphite powder, dip the plates in it, wipe off the excess wax and let it set, trapping slippery paraffin and graphite in the tight spaces. That should keep them lubed for a few years. Reassemble.

It a bit of commitment but if you want to keep vintage working, you have to invest time and elbow grease.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jeff Scott and zmix
#18
96tbird said:
I get what op is saying:

Vintage Klusons have half hoop retainers that hold the keys on the plate. The corrosion is inside there. I would set them in a bath of penetrating oil for several days, then get some of yhose little brass brushes or similar that acetylene welders use and scrub loose matter from under the hoops.

I would then melt paraffin wax add a little graphite powder, dip the plates in it, wipe off the excess wax and let it set, trapping slippery paraffin and graphite in the tight spaces. That should keep them lubed for a few years. Reassemble.

It a bit of commitment but if you want to keep vintage working, you have to invest time and elbow grease.
Click to expand...

That seems like a well thought out idea. I took the tuners off and sprayed some WD40 into the key retainers last night and seems to have helped a decent amount. I'm not sure how long that will last though. If that doesn't work I'll have to try your idea next.
 
#20
I also forgot to mention pulling the bushings out and rotating them 180 to give an unworn surface for the posts to bear on under load.

DO NOT hammer them back in. Press them in with a clamp and clean wood blocks to protect the head. Align the knurls with the old grooves in the wood.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back