Warmoth inspiration needed

[Moopahtroopa]

Hi, guys, I am thinking about doing a Warmoth build but I am feeling kind of uninspired. I would really like it if you guys could share your Warmoth builds with me(pictures, tech specs, everything). I if it helps I was thinking of doing a classic fendery(is this a word?) 5 string with some nice wood. Thanks again!

 

[angrydad]

Doug Parent is or local Warmoth Bass Authority. Great guy who has built quite a few 5'ers.

 

[charlie monroe]

Calling @Doner Designs

 

[Doner Designs]

I don't have pictures of them all at this location but here are a few. All use Nordstrand pickups, Audere preamps, Babicz bridges and Hipshot Ultralight tuners. All are classic "Fendery" as you put it. Mine are BEAD four strings, but the same wood combinations would be available in 5 string. The exotic woods can get expensive, but some don't need a finish. For a really light neck that looks exotic, roasted maple is a good choice.

 

[MobileHolmes]

This is my number 1. Plain, but has it where it counts

Alder body
Maple neck/pau ferro board/stainless 6105 frets
Nitro finish, oly white
Nordstrand NJ4 SV pickups
Audere JZ 5 preamp
Schaller BML tuners
Hipshot Vintage Bridge
Dunlop strap locks

If I had it to do again, I might skip the pre. I use it flat about 99% of the time, and it is supposed to be pretty Neutral sounding.

I finally got a scale, and it weighs in at right about 10 lbs

 

[Trouztrouz]

This one is beautiful. I mean they're all beautiful but this one is beautiful enough that it hurts to look at it.

Ow.

 

[Moopahtroopa]

I don't have pictures of them all at this location but here are a few. All use Nordstrand pickups, Audere preamps, Babicz bridges and Hipshot Ultralight tuners. All are classic "Fendery" as you put it. Mine are BEAD four strings, but the same wood combinations would be available in 5 string. The exotic woods can get expensive, but some don't need a finish. For a really light neck that looks exotic, roasted maple is a good choice.

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What do you mean by don't need a finish? Do you put on a coat of tung oil? What are type of wood/stain is the bass of the far right of the first pick?

 

[JGR]

 

[MobileHolmes]

What do you mean by don't need a finish? Do you put on a coat of tung oil? What are type of wood/stain is the bass of the far right of the first pick?

Warmoth requires some woods to have a hard finish to validate the warranty (presumably they are more subject to warping unfinished). Maple is the biggie here. A fair number of the other woods are stable enough that they do not need to be finished. I'm thinking roasted maple for my next build, which does not need a finish

 

[Moopahtroopa]

so a quilted maple body would work well with just a coat or 2 of tung oil?

 

[Doner Designs]

This one is beautiful. I mean they're all beautiful but this one is beautiful enough that it hurts to look at it.

Ow.

Thanks. Solid koa with matte finish. Was in the Warmoth showcase with a price tag that matched the looks but I found that resistance was futile.

 

[Doner Designs]

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I love birdseye and that is one of the better ones I have seen Was it unique choice or luck of the draw?

 

[JGR]

I love birdseye and that is one of the better ones I have seen Was it unique choice or luck of the draw?

Thanks Steve! I actually snagged it from the showcase like six or seven years ago - found the receipt when I recently pulled out the body to finish the build - it's a light 4 lb solid alder body with the black accent line. Was only $225!

 

[Doner Designs]

What do you mean by don't need a finish? Do you put on a coat of tung oil? What are type of wood/stain is the bass of the far right of the first pick?

Most of the dark woods (wenge, rosewood, bubinga, ebony, roasted maple, etc) do not need any finish, not even oil. These woods are on the heavy side, so they are normally not used for body cores; just necks and body tops.

Left to right, the bodies are ash with bocote top, walnut with flame maple top, mahogany with quilt maple top and maple with flame koa top. All of the tops were "unique choice" which means they the cost a couple hundred extra but they are highly figured and you can see pictures of the tops at time of order. All of the bodies have clear gloss finish - all of the darkening is the natural color of the woods.

 

[Doner Designs]

Thanks Steve! I actually snagged it from the showcase like six or seven years ago - found the receipt when I recently pulled out the body to finish the build - it's a light 4 lb solid alder body with the black accent line. Was only $225!

It's a beauty and you got a great deal on it!

 

[Doner Designs]

so a quilted maple body would work well with just a coat or 2 of tung oil?

I think that would work fine but personally I like to go heavier on the oil if you use real tung oil vs the so-called tung oils that are more like a varnish. With real tung oil, 5-10 coats will get you a harder finish that's more resistant to sweat and the like. I also like to top off the oil with Minwax paste wax applied with 0000 steel wool. That kind of finish looks a lot like clear satin nitro. It's easy but takes several weeks, so what you end up with is something that no builder who wants to make money is ever going to offer. Regarding the paste wax, be sure to use the dark wax on dark woods, otherwise you will see white flecks of wax in the pores. For maple, regular wax is fine.

By the way, a solid figured maple body would be extremely expensive if available at all. For that look, I would suggest a maple, alder or ash body with quilt maple top. Maple tends to be on the heavy side, so you would probably want to have it chambered or just use alder as an alternative.